Door speakers with no amp, waste of time?

[Rocket Man]

Took me long enough to order these, hopefully wont take as long to get them in the truck lol!




Hey Mark, did you need/use any extra speaker wire or connectors? Cant wait to hear these for myself.

I just cut off the OEM plugs and used some crimp connectors.

 

[Hink]

Sounds good, you still liking them?

 

[Rocket Man]

Yep I'm very happy. I'm sure you will be too.

 

[DPGDirk]

OK, so I got the JBL GTO 628 speakers. 2 pairs. Watched a few videos on door panel removal and it brings up a couple of questions.

It seems the factory door panels have a tweeter in them that needs to be disconnected when removing the door panel. The factory mid driver is in the door.
The new JBL's have tweeters all together in the same speaker.

How are you guys wiring these speakers? Is there a factory crossover at work here? Are you plugging the factory tweeter wire back in on the door panel?
Will the tweeters in the new JBL's even work then or is the higher signal cut out?

Also, the new JBL's have a 0 or -3 db button on the tweeters to adjust the volume of the tweeters themselves?
How are you guys setting yours? Did it make any difference?

Thanks!

 

[Rocket Man]

In my Denali, the tweeters are in the A-pillars and I left them connected. There's no tweeters in my doors; yours may have them there but might not depending on your factory system. I also left the JBL's tweeters in the full output setting (button out) and adjusted the high frequency in my HU's equalizer. Yes there is a factory crossover but I believe that only affects the factory tweeter and the main door speakers have a full range signal to them, because the JBL's sound great with great highs and mids. I would suggest leaving your tweeters connected to keep from having problems with your factory components (amp). You should be able to adjust the high output fine with your HU but if it's too much, you could try hitting the buttons on the JBL's to tone it down a bit more. I personally like quite a bit of high frequency and my stock tweeters seem kind of dull. Let us know how it turns out.

 

[DPGDirk]

Thanks!

 

[NhHayseed]

Hey guys I'm new around here. I was checking posted threads and saw this one seems to be exactly what Im dealing with and seems helpful.

I do have a few questions as I am green and trying to learn before spending the cash.

I have a 2003 tahoe z71 with the bose package. I replaced the cd changer with a sony wx-gt90bt. It is installed and works great. I have a few speakers that are sounding like they are blown (static, cutting in and out) and was thinking of replacing them.

I spoke with crutchfield and they told me about a set of 2 ohm jbl speakers that would work with my Headunit and the bose amp. That sounded good and I hoped they sound better then my 13 year old bose ones.

I spoke with them again and they insisted I had 4 ohm bose speakers presently and tried pushing 4 ohm ones on me. This left me wanting to independently verify what the current bose speakers are so I can buy the correct ones.

Is metering them with my MM the best way or is it generally printed on the back of the speaker itself?

Also lets say they are 2 ohm and I go with the 2 ohm JBL will they be an improvement over my bose ones?

Thanks for any guidance.

 

[Rocket Man]

Yes measure them with a multimeter. They aren't marked other than a part number. If you've read this thread then you should have read the JBL's do sound way better than the Bose. I recommend the ones I bought.

 

[NhHayseed]

Thanks. I wasn't sure if you continued using the factory bose amp or if you had an aftermarket one to enhance the JBL's.

 

[Rocket Man]

I'm using the Bose Luxury amp to run the 4 JBL door speakers, the 2 A-pillar tweeters and the 2 speakers in the back by the lift gate. I have a JL 10" sub in an MTX Thunderform enclosure behind the rear left panel running off a Soundstream Picasso Nano 450 watt amp. I read up on the different Bose amps and if you're lucky enough to have the Lux model, it's a great amp. The non-Lux is just OK. You'll need to do some research on the subject if you want to learn about the difference. From what I understand, the Lux is "smart" which allows the signal to be adjusted over the vehicles data bus, so it's cleaner and also allows for a theater or surround effect. I forget how to figure out if you have one or the other but I know the Denalis have the Lux.