Dorman vs. OEM GM coolant "T's"

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Geotrash

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Gonna need to get some replacements myself. Mechanic broke mine and replaced with dorman. @Geotrash have a link to those aluminum T's? Are they expensive?
Here you go, @Tonyrodz. Gruven Parts. Not cheap, but good peace of mind. I have them on both of my Denali's now.
https://www.gruvenparts.com/billet-gm-heater-core-coolant-tees/

Also, Dorman makes a coolant pipe assembly for the water pump end that uses a metal tee. It's a great part so I used it in both of my trucks also when I did the job:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HVAC-Heater-Hose-Assembly-Dorman-626-553/113134563530
 
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I changed out the OE ones on my 2001 for good measure a couple years ago when I did a heater core back flush. They had about 200k miles on them, weren't cracked or leaking and just looked a liitle faded in color. I replaced them with the same GM parts.

To tell you the truth, I never new these were a problem until I started reading on here a few years ago that they are such a problem! I mean, it's not like I see all these tahoes, yukons, and suburbans broke down on the side of the road everywhere I look, lol.

The aluminum Gruven parts look nice, but are very pricey and use rubber hose and clamps to connect, which right there makes more failure points if you ask me.

Now, if someone were to make metal ones that integrated the factory style quick connect system......win

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HD_LS

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Have some pics?

Here are the Tee elimination pics. The first one shows the 3/4 to 5/8 metal hose adapter connections. The second one shows the 3/4 inch hose connections to the heater core. One clamp on each side of the flange bulge of the aluminum heater core tubing. This ensures that it will both seal, and can never pull off. Regular worm gear screw clamps would work just as well.

Heater-Hose-Conn-02.jpg
Heater-Hose-Conn-01.jpg
 
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Oldmopars

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I changed out the OE ones on my 2001 for good measure a couple years ago when I did a heater core back flush. They had about 200k miles on them, weren't cracked or leaking and just looked a liitle faded in color. I replaced them with the same GM parts.

To tell you the truth, I never new these were a problem until I started reading on here a few years ago that they are such a problem! I mean, it's not like I see all these tahoes, yukons, and suburbans broke down on the side of the road everywhere I look, lol.

The aluminum Gruven parts look nice, but are very pricey and use rubber hose and clamps to connect, which right there makes more failure points if you ask me.

Now, if someone were to make metal ones that integrated the factory style quick connect system......win

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I agree. If I am going to spend $180 on fittings, I want to to be factory replacement design, I don’t want to have to jury rig them to fit. I can make my own out of steel for a fraction of that cost.
For now I will just use the OEM and keep the Dorman in the truck as spares. After all, the OEM lasted 10 years and weren’t broken yet, I replaced them due to a small drip. So I will just keep my eye on them and put that $180 in the fuel tank.
 

Geotrash

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I agree. If I am going to spend $180 on fittings, I want to to be factory replacement design, I don’t want to have to jury rig them to fit. I can make my own out of steel for a fraction of that cost.
For now I will just use the OEM and keep the Dorman in the truck as spares. After all, the OEM lasted 10 years and weren’t broken yet, I replaced them due to a small drip. So I will just keep my eye on them and put that $180 in the fuel tank.
To each their own, for sure. For me, the billet parts and upgraded hoses are a set-and-forget solution, for the kind of driving I do - towing a heavy trailer long distances in hot southern weather.

Another factor I consider is what the result of a failure of any failure-prone part would be. In the case of the tees, it has the potential to ruin my day at best, and at worst put me and my family in danger. I can think of many places where blowing a coolant tee would be a serious problem. To be clear, I agree that the likelihood of OEM tees failing is low, but the real cost for me is getting in there and doing the work to replace them. And, I know that I plan to keep my 2012 for another 10 years, so if I can take the likelihood of failure to zero for $100, more or less, it's worth it to me, but might not be to you, and that's okay.

It's a similar cost/benefit analysis I use when replacing something like a fuel pump with OEM vs aftermarket. The OEM pump is shown through the experiences of many here to be more reliable than aftermarket pumps, but costs $200 more. Since it's a PITA to do the job and the consequences of failure are significant, I'll spend the money for the OEM pumps on these trucks.
 
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To each their own, for sure. For me, the billet parts and upgraded hoses are a set-and-forget solution, for the kind of driving I do - towing a heavy trailer long distances in hot southern weather.

Another factor I consider is what the result of a failure of any failure-prone part would be. In the case of the tees, it has the potential to ruin my day at best, and at worst put me and my family in danger. I can think of many places where blowing a coolant tee would be a serious problem. To be clear, I agree that the likelihood of OEM tees failing is low, but the real cost for me is getting in there and doing the work to replace them. And, I know that I plan to keep my 2012 for another 10 years, so if I can take the likelihood of failure to zero for $100, more or less, it's worth it to me, but might not be to you, and that's okay.

It's a similar cost/benefit analysis I use when replacing something like a fuel pump with OEM vs aftermarket. The OEM pump is shown through the experiences of many here to be more reliable than aftermarket pumps, but costs $200 more. Since it's a PITA to do the job and the consequences of failure are significant, I'll spend the money for the OEM pumps on these trucks.
The billet Ts wouldn't be what I'd be worried about, it'd be the bits of hoses and half dozen (well 5) clamps for each that's used to connect them.

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Oldmopars

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What are the sizes of the hoses? 3/4 at the heater core? 5/8 heater hose? And 1/2 for the rear heat? Are both the same size? The billet one is only shown in one configuration.
 

kbuskill

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What are the sizes of the hoses? 3/4 at the heater core? 5/8 heater hose? And 1/2 for the rear heat? Are both the same size? The billet one is only shown in one configuration.

They are both the same.
 

Geotrash

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The billet Ts wouldn't be what I'd be worried about, it'd be the bits of hoses and half dozen (well 5) clamps for each that's used to connect them.

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Not an issue. The hoses are silicone and I used clamps designed for silicone hoses. They'll still be on the truck in 15 years when it's in the boneyard. :)
 

Foggy

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Of course the Gruven is the best..
But, as to the original ???
The GM is better than the Dorman...
I have a friend that is a gm parts counter guy. According to him, the GM Tee's are an improved version
over the originals... That's according to him...
I just couldn't spend the $$ for the gruven, so I went with the GM Tee's... They were in stock and Inexpensive
 

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