I installed this one in my '07 back in 2019, still going strong. https://a.co/d/fxI8OwI
Service Battery AND Low Coolant warnings
- Thread starter Writefast
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OP
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Writefast
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And failed. New alternator is reporting that it is failing to whatever device it is that O’reillys uses to talk to it.
So:
Motor cranks strong.
Sitting in the driveway in park I can crank everything thing up. Lights, ac, radio. Needle barely moves.
When the fans kick in interior lights dim significantly, needle moves a bit, but near 14 is maintained.
Apply brake, no change.
Put it in drive and the needle starts to dip significantly. Bottoms out at about halfway between 9-14. Seems to want to stay there but I’ve yet to go longer than five minutes in this state.
Kill lights, negligible results but some positive movement.
Kill everything else and the needle begins to very slowly climb back up.
Putting it back in park makes no difference.
Running rpm, while in park, needle climbs back up to 14 within 3 min or so. That’s with everything off.
Could a failing battery current sensor be causing this?
So:
Motor cranks strong.
Sitting in the driveway in park I can crank everything thing up. Lights, ac, radio. Needle barely moves.
When the fans kick in interior lights dim significantly, needle moves a bit, but near 14 is maintained.
Apply brake, no change.
Put it in drive and the needle starts to dip significantly. Bottoms out at about halfway between 9-14. Seems to want to stay there but I’ve yet to go longer than five minutes in this state.
Kill lights, negligible results but some positive movement.
Kill everything else and the needle begins to very slowly climb back up.
Putting it back in park makes no difference.
Running rpm, while in park, needle climbs back up to 14 within 3 min or so. That’s with everything off.
Could a failing battery current sensor be causing this?
OP
OP
Writefast
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Yes. New serp. New battery. And now a new alt. I think I’m returning it tomorrow. Should have today but I’m a stupid monkey.
OP
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Writefast
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Not sure how I’d test that but I replaced the tensioner unnecessarily a few months ago.
kinda sucks to keep buying things, but a cheap DC amp clamp would at least tell you what the alt is putting out. you could compare that to the scanner reading, or get an idea of what kinda load all that is pulling? cooling fans are a lot but also a old failing cooling fan motor starts drawing a lot more amps as it burns up.
its so hard to guess over the net but I do wonder if you're just putting say a 100amp load on a alt that can't keep up with that at idle. sounds like if the rpms are higher, it can hold the voltage up?
its so hard to guess over the net but I do wonder if you're just putting say a 100amp load on a alt that can't keep up with that at idle. sounds like if the rpms are higher, it can hold the voltage up?
your putting the cart before the horse
start at the battery and start testing battery cables and grounds.
your battery is the power source..... it needs a good solid connection for everything to power up.
use a meter.....
it sounds like you have a poor ground somewhere, the more draw you put on the system the less it can handle it.
ohm test grounds to battery negative post.
since it is a 07 unbolt the "mega-fuse" on the firewall and clean it up and reinstall.
start at the battery and start testing battery cables and grounds.
your battery is the power source..... it needs a good solid connection for everything to power up.
use a meter.....
it sounds like you have a poor ground somewhere, the more draw you put on the system the less it can handle it.
ohm test grounds to battery negative post.
since it is a 07 unbolt the "mega-fuse" on the firewall and clean it up and reinstall.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Your computer is telling you now that something is wrong with the charging system. After checking/replacing the cables, the alternator probably cannot perform under load to the satisfaction of the computer program. You can unplug the current sensor which will run the alternator at full output.
Use a bi-directional scan tool to check the state of charge of the battery. Or wait till morning after she's been sitting all night and check the voltage against the ambient temperature outside to determine what it is. If it is below 65%, it's time for a new battery.
Use a bi-directional scan tool to check the state of charge of the battery. Or wait till morning after she's been sitting all night and check the voltage against the ambient temperature outside to determine what it is. If it is below 65%, it's time for a new battery.
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I was going to say it sounds like a ground cable issue. You should check the ground point on the engine block on the passenger side and there is one on the front end of the passenger frame rail. You will need to take the bumper cover off to get to it. Many times these get corroded inside and become a resistive but they look “fine”.
Many of us have experienced strange electrical issues that were bad ground circuits.
Many of us have experienced strange electrical issues that were bad ground circuits.
Consider doing a voltage drop test.
Last edited:
ACDELCO 13536552
This is what I looked up on RA. 220 amp for 2020
Is this a direct fit (2014 denali 6.2) ?????
Because that is a smokin deal for a high amp alternator
