Dreaded Lifter Issue

[TollKeeper]

I would tackle this completely different, but I dont know your mechanical skills, or if you have a mechanic you trust, to try and do a lifter release, and VLOM mod, PCM tune.

If it wasnt driven long with the collapsed lifter, the cam may just be fine. Mine was, and I spent 350 bucks to fix mine (did the work myself), and I had to pull the head off, to replace the lifters/push rods.

CrazedPerformance has a lifter release tool that seems to work for most, but the VLOM mod and tune has to be done as well.

The lifter release tool did not work for me, but mine failed different than most.

Finding a mechanic that is willing to try the CrazedPerformance route.. Thats the tricky part.. But thats what I would do.

If it works, you can then decide to sell it, or keep it, knowing that the lifter failure will likely never happen again, but a tranny failure my be on the horizon.

 

[Geotrash]

It is a lot. If you are a mechanically inclined person who can do the work yourself or know people who can do it for cheap, then maybe it makes sense, but I can't. I am here for both sides of comments and do value both, though I take some with a grain of salt.
And yes, on the agenda today is the tow home so think it over. Thanks for your input.

I think that's a wise next step to take. For a little more perspective, in the next few years you will likely be looking at some additional expenses as well, such as front wheel bearings, a radiator, coolant tees at the firewall, etc etc. As you say, if you are mechanically inclined or have a mechanically inclined friend, all of this is relatively easy stuff, but it won't be cheap to pay someone else to do it all when it comes due. That said, in my experience these trucks are every bit as reliable and durable as anything else on the road. I've owned a Toyota, two Hondas and a Subaru and all of them needed multiple mechanical repairs during my ownership.

If you decide to trade it in on something, perhaps someone here would offer you a fair price since it's a rust-free truck that's been well cared for. Good luck with your decision!

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

 

[MWD_CTSV]

I'm going in a different direction here. I'd get it towed home. Spend some time looking at Toyota/Honda dealers and get some idea what you can do on a trade with it "as is." For a retired teacher you can't beat a Honda Pilot, Toyota is No. 2 in my book. Putting over $10 grand in that machine for engine and impending transmission repair is insanity. Just my opinion, probably pretty unpopular here.

If you must drive some type of SUV, the Pilot or Highlander are definitely more economical choices.

For $30K, you can get approximately:
New sedan with good mpg and warranty
2019 Pilot/Highlander with 60K miles and leather
2015/16 Tahoe LS/LT with 80-100K miles.

The first two have high odds of a trouble free 10 year use. With the *newer* Tahoe, you may likely be back in the same boat in 3 years with a 10yr Tahoe, needing some serious repairs. I love the GMT900 platform, and I love working on it, which is the only way it can be economical to me, but it isn't really economical in a broader sense.

 

[Doubeleive]

Engine and trans, meh might be better to sell it as-is get what you can out of it, take that and apply it towards a used one for a affordable price and cross your fingers it last's.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Something to note at the time of this post OP simply stated they feel that the transmission "might" be starting to fail. I think we can agree to not make several thousand dollar decisions without any facts or evidence.

 

[iamdub]

Louisiana

This is surprising. There aren't many from here. Well, allow me to extend a warm 'bienvenue la TYF' from a fellow Louisiana inhabitant.

If you're anywhere near me, I'd be happy to take a look at it. Where y'at? I'm in West Baton Rouge. You can PM me if you'd prefer.


If it's just a collapsed lifter, it'll likely be an AFM one. If that's all that's wrong (no cam damage, etc.), the cheapest resolution would be to replace that lifter. I'd disable AFM as extra precaution. This is a one [long] day job using hand tools.

Bare minimum parts estimate-
Head gasket: $50
Head bolts: $30
New AFM lifter: $60
AFM disable: $60
Intake manifold gaskets: $40
Exhaust manifold gasket: $12
Exhaust manifold bolt set: $15
Coolant concentrate: $15
Distilled water: $1.50

There are a few other recommended "while you're in there" bits and pieces such as VLOM gasket, valve cover gasket, oil pressure sensor, etc. But I wanted to give you a bare minimum list for reference.

So, under $300 in parts would get the engine running right again if it's just a failed lifter and wasn't ran for very long on it. Having AFM disabled will keep the lifters locked so they operate like the standard lifters. Not having them pump up and down as AFM disengages and engages really helps. It's not bulletproof and there's still a chance of something failing since the components are still there. But, it goes a long way in preventing a failure. If anything, having it running right would greatly increase private sale or trade-in value. The trans could be something minor, or nothing. So, even the minimum might be worth investing into it. 113K miles really is low mileage for one of these. I bought mine at 146K and spanked on it for 54K miles. At 200K, I tore into it to delete AFM and hop it up a little and haven't been easy on it since. 22K miles of shenanigans and counting, all documented here.

 

[TollKeeper]

This is surprising. There aren't many from here. Well, allow me to extend a warm 'bienvenue la TYF' from a fellow Louisiana inhabitant.

If you're anywhere near me, I'd be happy to take a look at it. Where y'at? I'm in West Baton Rouge. You can PM me if you'd prefer.


If it's just a collapsed lifter, it'll likely be an AFM one. If that's all that's wrong (no cam damage, etc.), the cheapest resolution would be to replace that lifter. I'd disable AFM as extra precaution. This is a one [long] day job using hand tools.

Bare minimum parts estimate-
Head gasket: $50
Head bolts: $30
New AFM lifter: $60
AFM disable: $60
Intake manifold gaskets: $40
Exhaust manifold gasket: $12
Exhaust manifold bolt set: $15
Coolant concentrate: $15
Distilled water: $1.50

There are a few other recommended "while you're in there" bits and pieces such as VLOM gasket, valve cover gasket, oil pressure sensor, etc. But I wanted to give you a bare minimum list for reference.

So, under $300 in parts would get the engine running right again if it's just a failed lifter and wasn't ran for very long on it. Having AFM disabled will keep the lifters locked so they operate like the standard lifters. Not having them pump up and down as AFM disengages and engages really helps. It's not bulletproof and there's still a chance of something failing since the components are still there. But, it goes a long way in preventing a failure. If anything, having it running right would greatly increase private sale or trade-in value. The trans could be something minor, or nothing. So, even the minimum might be worth investing into it. 113K miles really is low mileage for one of these. I bought mine at 146K and spanked on it for 54K miles. At 200K, I tore into it to delete AFM and hop it up a little and haven't been easy on it since. 22K miles of shenanigans and counting, all documented here.

I would also replace the pushrod. If its just the collapsed lifter, it slapping around on the lifter/rocker can damage the cone, or in my case, bend the push rod. They are like 2-7 bucks depending on where you get them.

Never had to replace a intake gasket on a LS yet. They were always reuseable...

Dont forget to get your parts from Amazon Warehouse.. Thats where I got all my parts, except for the lifter itself. Saved me a bunch of money!

For example..

Amazon Warehouse prices:
Headgasket:
ACD - $30

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-23295979-Passenger-Wiring-Harness/dp/B014MV89R8/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2RLHX246W0QED&keywords=5.3+head+gasket&m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&qid=1681484283&s=warehouse-deals&sprefix=5.3+head+gasket%2Cwarehouse-deals%2C109&sr=8-4

Mahle - $22

https://www.amazon.com/MAHLE-Original-54442-Engine-Cylinder/dp/B0027A4O4O/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2RLHX246W0QED&keywords=5.3+head+gasket&m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&qid=1681484390&s=warehouse-deals&sprefix=5.3+head+gasket%2Cwarehouse-deals%2C109&sr=8-10

Head Bolts - $23
Fel-Pro

https://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-Es72220-Head-Bolt-Set/dp/B000Q0R4V2/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2RLHX246W0QED&keywords=5.3+head+gasket&m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&qid=1681484390&s=warehouse-deals&sprefix=5.3+head+gasket%2Cwarehouse-deals%2C109&sr=8-6

The only other recomendation I have, only use the ACD exhaust manifold gasket. They are a thicker, 3 layer metal. - $12

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-12617944-Original-Equipment-Manifold/dp/B007Q13TQI/ref=sxin_26_ci_mcx_mi_sr_m_il?content-id=amzn1.sym.14a38c0a-385f-4735-bb28-d2be35b783e1%3Aamzn1.sym.14a38c0a-385f-4735-bb28-d2be35b783e1&crid=1NVBBIUUXRTC7&cv_ct_cx=5.3+exhaust+manifold+gasket&keywords=5.3+exhaust+manifold+gasket&pd_rd_i=B007Q13TQI&pd_rd_r=cd1d3092-0a72-46b0-8af7-cc40b7b733fc&pd_rd_w=YXIMz&pd_rd_wg=WKu8N&pf_rd_p=14a38c0a-385f-4735-bb28-d2be35b783e1&pf_rd_r=AQVPW0M17C44ES74BZ6B&qid=1681485331&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=5.3+exhaust+manifold+gasket%2Caps%2C119&sr=1-3-9eb59ba4-cd99-4f87-9222-b322340b23c8

 

[iamdub]

I would also replace the pushrod. If its just the collapsed lifter, it slapping around on the lifter/rocker can damage the cone, or in my case, bend the push rod. They are like 2-7 bucks depending on where you get them.

Good point.

Never had to replace a intake gasket on a LS yet. They were always reuseable...

They usually are reusable. I consider replacing them a cheap insurance thing. But, in keeping with the "bare minimum" theme, yes, they might can be left off the list.

Dont forget to get your parts from Amazon Warehouse.. Thats where I got all my parts, except for the lifter itself. Saved me a bunch of money!

For example..

Amazon Warehouse prices:
Headgasket:
ACD - $30

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-23295979-Passenger-Wiring-Harness/dp/B014MV89R8/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2RLHX246W0QED&keywords=5.3+head+gasket&m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&qid=1681484283&s=warehouse-deals&sprefix=5.3+head+gasket%2Cwarehouse-deals%2C109&sr=8-4

Mahle - $22

https://www.amazon.com/MAHLE-Original-54442-Engine-Cylinder/dp/B0027A4O4O/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2RLHX246W0QED&keywords=5.3+head+gasket&m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&qid=1681484390&s=warehouse-deals&sprefix=5.3+head+gasket%2Cwarehouse-deals%2C109&sr=8-10

Head Bolts - $23
Fel-Pro

https://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-Es72220-Head-Bolt-Set/dp/B000Q0R4V2/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2RLHX246W0QED&keywords=5.3+head+gasket&m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&qid=1681484390&s=warehouse-deals&sprefix=5.3+head+gasket%2Cwarehouse-deals%2C109&sr=8-6

The only other recomendation I have, only use the ACD exhaust manifold gasket. They are a thicker, 3 layer metal. - $12

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-12617944-Original-Equipment-Manifold/dp/B007Q13TQI/ref=sxin_26_ci_mcx_mi_sr_m_il?content-id=amzn1.sym.14a38c0a-385f-4735-bb28-d2be35b783e1%3Aamzn1.sym.14a38c0a-385f-4735-bb28-d2be35b783e1&crid=1NVBBIUUXRTC7&cv_ct_cx=5.3+exhaust+manifold+gasket&keywords=5.3+exhaust+manifold+gasket&pd_rd_i=B007Q13TQI&pd_rd_r=cd1d3092-0a72-46b0-8af7-cc40b7b733fc&pd_rd_w=YXIMz&pd_rd_wg=WKu8N&pf_rd_p=14a38c0a-385f-4735-bb28-d2be35b783e1&pf_rd_r=AQVPW0M17C44ES74BZ6B&qid=1681485331&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=5.3+exhaust+manifold+gasket%2Caps%2C119&sr=1-3-9eb59ba4-cd99-4f87-9222-b322340b23c8

Always pays to shop around!

 

[Hooverdog]

I recently had the same issue on my 2017 Yukon XL with the 5.3L engine. Last year I was stuck about 1k miles from home with my transmission when while waiting at a drive thru. Paid $6k to get it replaced last March (since I got it done at a GMC dealer, it came with a three year/75k warranty). A couple of weeks ago, the truck had no power so thought it was a transmission issue again (at least I was hoping it was). Drove the truck to the local dealer who quoted $4800 if the cam was good and $6800 to replace all the lifters and cam. Also quoted $10k if I wanted a rebuilt engine. Not knowing what to do, I had the truck towed to Columbus OH where my brother in law has a shop for a second opinion. Lucore Automotive has a pretty successful YouTube channel and you can see the episode here.

Blown Motor at Lucore Automotive

Since I drive about 35k for work each year, I ended up trading it in this week as I need something more dependable. Was worried that even if I did a delete kit, I would keep needing to have things replaced. There is also a follow video to the one above as well. Will be getting a DoD delete module just as soon as they make them for the 2023! Good Luck!