Drilled/slotted rotors

[noJeepshere]

Agreed with Kris, avoid made in China crap. I also use NAPA for almost everything parts relpacement related. It's the only store in town here that has car guys that know what they're doing, and the stuff is pretty quality.

 

[arveetek]

Thanks guys!

Here's a response I received from another board:


"You should look at new calipers instead. I imagine you are already running vented, because that is the way to go. Slotted rotors came to be as a way to vent the build up of gases between the pad and rotor. They have been obsoleted by newer pad material, although are still used with extremely soft, aggressive pads. Cross-drilled rotors will increase your stopping distance quite a bit because all of the holes significantly reduce the swept area of the rotor. Additionally, the holes reduce the strength of the rotor. Their main purpose is to allow for the largest possible pad and to keep the sprung weight down.

Basically, if you continue to warp rotors, check other areas before going to a rotor that will decrease your braking performance."


I thought that was an interesting response. I had the understanding that drilled and slotted rotors were always an upgrade?

Casey

 

[noJeepshere]

Makes sense though if you think about it. I would do just slotted rotors as they'll do all the work you need them to, unless you're going tall with a lift and big tires.

When my brother sold me My Yukon, it had practically brand new brakes all around, and if you look at the fronts, after 55,000 miles, they are only half gone, but they warped almost immediately after I bought it. In a year or so I'm upgrading to larger slotted rotors with a hydroboost setup, along with discs out back.

 

[dznutts]

Check this out, Made in USA!


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chev...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

[SunlitComet]

I have 17k miles of mountain/very steep road usage that seems in direct contrast to your statement. All of the GM emergency responder vehicles here in the mountains also are outfitted with the same NAPA rotors when the stockers warp.

I'm curious why you'd issue a blanket statement like that.

Because they make the choice based and price for that purchase not total cost ownership/operation. You actually spend more over time and use inferior products. Using better products with longer life, performance and reliability can save you money. The shop just thinks the drivers will always burn them up so just get the cheapest they can get on account. Why not itrain the drivers to not abuse the vehicles and use proper braking techniques. If you need extra braking use transmission/engine braking. Why do you think we use thrust reversers on aircraft?

---------- Post added at 06:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:30 PM ----------

Check this out, Made in USA!


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chev...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

No drilled rotors either. They crack to easily from drilling stress.

 

[arveetek]

Something to keep in mind is that it is possible to warp the rotor by using an impact wrench (putting them on in a circular pattern) to put the lugs on versus the correct star pattern method. A giy we race with who owns a body shop told us that...haven't had the problem since.

I'm the only one who removes the wheels from my rig, so I know that the wheels have been tightened in the star manner. I always criss-cross in several steps with my impact gun. I have to admit that I haven't used a torque-wrench. I know I should.

Also, that's good to know about the drilled rotors. I always thought that drilled AND slotted were the way to go.

Thanks guys!

Casey