Driver rear axle won't come out after C clip removed

[JasonPAtkins]

Hi folks, I'm swapping (or attempting to) the driver rear axle seal and bearing. I have the diff open and the c-clip removed, but the axle is still hanging up on something, preventing me from pulling it out.

Any advice? I gave the hub a few very light tunks outward with a hammer, but didn't know how much force I could put on it.

The seal was leaking. I don't know if the bearing is bad, but I figured since the $30 bearing requires the waste of a $30 gasket and $30 of oil if it does go bad, I'd just replace it while I was there.

My 2nd problem is that although I read/watched 10 how-to's before beginning, only after I had this difficulty and starting pulling, jiggling, and rotating to try to get it loose, did I read the 11th how-to which said you should never rotate the shaft because it makes it more difficult to reassemble. It's a G80 locker. So, even after I get the shaft out and the seal/bearing replacement done, what do I need to do to ensure proper reassembly?

Thanks in advance.

 

[cmc76]

i am not sure on that specific axle. But i think there is a drift pin that slides out on some. you can rotate the spider gears to see it usually.

 

[swathdiver]

I just did this myself, pull on that thing till it comes out. Without the C-Clip and assuming you've removed the rear brakes there's nothing holding it in but the wear pattern. Mark the axle and the tube so it goes back in the same way into the same teeth.

 

[swathdiver]

Ours was a pain, took forever to get just enough clearance to get the clips out and once the repair was complete the opposite axle's button protruded too far, not allowing the pinion back in, we had to put a pry bar behind the hub and pull on it just enough to get clearance. Once we turned the wheels a few times everything inside aligned itself proper. Just cam back from a 20 mile test run and it's quiet as a mouse and no leaks! We also replaced the rear brake pads, rotors and the parking brake shoes. We did not replace the bearings which are fine. We used the factory fluid with the new grape scent which also includes the positraction additive.

 

[JasonPAtkins]

Ok, thanks. Slide hammer's coming out then. I have the caliper and rotor off, but didn't mess with the parking brake hardware. I can't see how that would need to come off though, it doesn't spin with or interfere with the axle in any way I can see.

 

[swathdiver]

Right, you can leave the parking brake shoes alone. Just adjust them if need be, while it's all apart. Slide hammer will do it. We then used a 2 foot long pry bar to pull the old seal out and a block of pine and a hammer to seat the new one inside. Not sure what you'll need to do to pull and remove the bearing though, didn't read up on it. On big trucks, we had pullers and discs to press fit them back in. Make sure the end of the tube where the seal goes it clean and dry.

 

[JasonPAtkins]

Thanks. Slide hammer did the job, but with some serious slamming!

The videos I watched also had you using a slide hammer with a flip up shoe on the end to pull the bearing. Didn't look fun, but should be manageable - and the good news is that since it lives in oil, at least you know they're not rusted together!

 

[JasonPAtkins]

So this is my first vehicle with a solid rear axle. The seal actually looks fine to my inexperienced eye. The shaft has some grooving in it where the seal was though.

If the seal really is fine (I'll replace it anyway, obviously) and not causing the leak, then the next suspect seems to me to be oil sneaking past the grooves in the shaft. I assume there must be some remedy for this short of replacing the otherwise-fine shaft? Fine sandpaper all around?

 

[swathdiver]

Mine had one groove, just wiped it down and put it back in. No leaks so far. I wonder if all that mud and debris did your seal in? Ohh, forgot to mention that the oil probably ruined the parking brake shoe on that side but you'll know better if it still holds the truck still afterwards. Mine was soaked on that side and both were glazed over. Someone previously probably drove around with it on and overpowered them.

We have a 120 mile round trip tomorrow so I'll take a look at it on Friday and see how the new seal is holding up.

 

[PG01]

Seal may look good but its def done, riding in the same spot for so many miles, new one will be tighter just be sure to be very careful sliding axle back in, dont just shove it in and slide along seal, support it the entire way, as in, don't stop half way and let it rest on the seal or even withe the spined ends, when you first put it through, very easy and slow. I take some new gear Oil and run it around edge of seal before insertion....