DRL's always on or no?

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sharper4

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Given that White Audio previously said they could change the program so that the LEDs turned on 100% as DRLs instead of the headlamps tells me that it's probably programmed in the module.
 

hosseface

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Why not just keep this simple. Find the 12v supply to the led strip, wire a relay to energize when you turn the key on then wire that relay to the led strip.

They would be full brightness all the time. Max 2 hour job. Problem solved.
 

sharper4

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See, I thought about this. And I like where you're headed but I had a few concerns about it.

1) Do you just use a diode and splice into a another source that is on when the engine is on? I thought most of the diodes that other people used were to supply a signal that told the lights to power up... not actually powering them. Would the extra load on the diode burn it out? I just wanted to make sure I had the details down before making an attempt at it.

2) Does anyone know where the DRL's connect to the BCM? Can we just pull that line from the harness connecting to the BCM to disable the DRL functionality since we're powering the LEDs through an alternative method?

3) How would you go about dis-allowing the power across this line when the headlights are turned on? My understanding is that they have less intensity at night because they're so bright to oncoming traffic when its dark outside. I only want the LEDs to turn on fully when the DRLs *should* be active.

Makes me wonder if I could pull the DRL wire from the BCM and replace that signal wire for the #1 item above. That could take care of both the signal and over-powering at night.

---------- Post added at 08:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:48 AM ----------

[/COLOR]Found the wiring schematics of the DRL's:

http://gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/508/15escalade_body_builders.pdf

Check page 4-17 through 4-20. Who wants to decipher it?

Yeah - I can generally follow it but I'm not going to take a stab at saying I can decipher it. Hopefully someone can make sense of this and get us pointed in the right direction. Imagine how many people can take advantage of what should be a very simple and easy upgrade. We're definitely getting closer.
 
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ebelp

ebelp

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Why not just keep this simple. Find the 12v supply to the led strip, wire a relay to energize when you turn the key on then wire that relay to the led strip.

They would be full brightness all the time. Max 2 hour job. Problem solved.

I think it's more complicated than this. The LED strips aren't on their own circuit with their own fuse. It's all built into the LED control module that's built into the headlight housings. If, however, you can find a way to tap into the main power of the LED strips, my worry is that it could disable the auto-on function of the headlights. Since the LED's and headlights are linked together, if you take the LED's out of the equation and have them running strictly off the ignition, I feel like that could disable the auto headlights, and you'll end up having to manually turn on the headlights when you need them.
 
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ebelp

ebelp

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Until it's clear, do what I do and turn the headlight knob one click right to run just the LEDs.

Agreed, but on a sunny day, the LED strips are so dim, you can barely tell they're on. It's not even close to the LTZ LED's. That bugs the hell out of me.
 

sharper4

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Agreed, but on a sunny day, the LED strips are so dim, you can barely tell they're on. It's not even close to the LTZ LED's. That bugs the hell out of me.

Ditto. I really do want them to come on/off automatically in place of the headlamps and I really would like them to be full brightness. In the sunlight they don't stand out at all.
 
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ebelp

ebelp

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I was originally thinking that finding a used set of LTZ headlights and swapping them would be the quickest easiest solution for us LT guys, but now I'm wondering if the BCM that's under the dash would actually need to be modified. What do you guys think?
 
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ebelp

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Another idea...what about replacing the existing LT BCM with the LTZ BCM. From what I've read, after a new BCM is installed, there's a "learning" process to pair it with the vehicle, which seems pretty straight forward. Could it be that simple, or is it more complicated than that?
 

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