EasyCare Extended Warranty

[DuraYuk]

Easy Care also includes tow and rental coverage. As for ease of use I’ve been told since the GM EPP is underwritten by AIG it’s no different other than it says GM. Still need an AIG agent to access the issue at time of warranty claim.

Im not sure about that. When i was a tech gm pp was a pleasure to deal with and quick. The aftermarket companies had more stipulations and would drag it out.

 

[OR VietVet]

Thanks for the feedback and opinions on this topic. So based on responses I’ve received it seems no one so far has experience with the Easy Care Warranty. Also just to be clear the more miles you have on a vehicle at the time of warranty purchase the more the extended warranty is at that time so that is why I’m choosing to purchase at this time.

Ok, what is the price difference when buying at new vehicle delivery and buying at end of warranty? If the warranties overlap, the extended warranty makes even more money because the bumper to bumper warranty is always used with any warranty claims. Again, buy the warranty now if you want. Your money and your call.

Numbers scenario: Bumper to bumper new vehicle warranty is 3 years or 36000 miles and extended warranty is 5 years and 75000 miles. The actual extended warranty is the difference of 2 years and 39000 miles. Weigh the dollar amount difference when buying at new vehicle delivery and the additional warranty after the bumper to bumper runs out.

 

[Stbentoak]

Ok, what is the price difference when buying at new vehicle delivery and buying at end of warranty? If the warranties overlap, the extended warranty makes even more money because the bumper to bumper warranty is always used with any warranty claims. Again, buy the warranty now if you want. Your money and your call.

Numbers scenario: Bumper to bumper new vehicle warranty is 3 years or 36000 miles and extended warranty is 5 years and 75000 miles. The actual extended warranty is the difference of 2 years and 39000 miles. Weigh the dollar amount difference when buying at new vehicle delivery and the additional warranty after the bumper to bumper runs out.

It does matter if you buy it in the beginning or the end. The length of the warranty is still the same if you buy a 6/75 new or a 6/75 at the 3/36 end, it still ends at 6/75…. and like the previous poster said, they’ll get about an extra thousand or 1500 because you didn’t buy right out of the box. Trust me I’ve researched this.

 

[OR VietVet]

Big difference in price fluctuation there. Is it $1000 or $1500? If it still ends at 6/75, then why lose the time of that 6/75 that is covered/overlapped by the 3/36 bumper to bumper?

If you use the 3/36 and then buy the 6/75 that means you have 9/111 coverage. If you buy the 6/75 on top of the 3/36 you only get the difference in the coverage of 3/39 and have paid big bucks for that time frame.

 

[Stbentoak]

Not true. Every extended warranty you buy starts from in-service date not from day you purchase….doesn’t matter when you purchase the 6/75 it ends in six years from in service date whether you purchase it the day you buy it or after 3/36. It does not add on to the mileage or time you have accumulated. But they do hammer you for more money if you wait three years before purchasing it because you’re going to pay the increased cost from what it cost three years previous. Plus they assume that you might know something may be going wrong and now all of a sudden you want to cover it and your warranty is running out. There’s a catch to everything.

 

[B-train]

Agreed with the in-service date. I know there are options that start after the factory warranty, but I don't think they are as comprehensive. Insurance companies will sell ANYTHING that they think they will profit from. Just depends on how big of a Karen you want to be when it comes time to get them to cover stuff.

 

[OR VietVet]

I am confused. Are you saying that the 6/75 that you buy at in service date does not even start till after the 3/36 is over? That seems to be a change from when I ran shops. So, in theory, if you buy the 6/75 at new vehicle delivery, you then have the 3/36 and then an additional 6/75 after that 3/36. Basically, that means the warranties combined are 9/111, correct? If that is the case, then I have to rethink my thoughts about an extended warranty. Do all the extended warranties work that way?

So, the OP, GM Epp plan at $3000 would break down to, in my 6/75 scenario, to $500 a year for the extended coverage, after the original bumper to bumper warranty runs out?

Is there a norm on the deductibles?

 

[DuraYuk]

Don't take this the wrong way @OR VietVet , but you are the same person that advocates the glories of having a 2005 vehicle also. ( I also have 2004 so I know how old that is...) Not all of us want to live in the stone ages.
If you want vehicle advancements/comforts, then you have to take vehicle complexity right along with them. In 2005, I wouldn't have bought a warranty either, but on a 2021+ with the problems we are seeing, cost of the vehicle and its complexities, what's 3k to cover it longer? Many of these people paid MSRP+ 5-10K just to sit in the driver's seat. You can easily recoup warranty costs on just one fix. 3/36 ain't that long. Mine is going back this week for 600.00 parts + labor, bad fuel filler neck assembly....Out of warranty, wouldn't be covered....Just the tip of the potential iceberg.
If I never used it, then I got lucky and actually had a good one, but just for the record, my last 2 warranties on vehicles I had were exceeded by repair costs by thousands of dollars I didn't pay, not to mention rental cars were covered while waiting God knows how long for parts in todays world.... Some vehicles in the local GMC dealers service lot have been sitting in the "Bullpen" for months waiting on parts.....

I worked for GM back then. GM PP saved a lot of people a lot of money. The guys saying the old trucks don't break have no idea. The archaic 4l60e constantly would fail. The rear dif and front dif would fail. Transfer case would fail. Climate control would fail. Knock sensors beneath intake would fail. Evap system would fail. Encoder motors would fail. Instrument clusters would fail. Fuel pumps would fail. Clock springs would fail. Door lock actuators would fail. Window motors would fail. Water pumps would fail. For a 'simple' vehicle they were in the shop a lot!

 

[Joseph Garcia]

As @OR VietVet originally stated, set yourself up a savings account for anticipated future repairs of the truck. When I purchased my new-to-me 07 Yukon XL Denali with 125,000 miles on it, I simultaneously set up a savings account and put $350 per month into it. So far, I have not run the savings account to zero, yet I've rebuilt the entire front and rear suspensions, a set of new tires, and I have installed several mods several mods out of this account.

 

[DuraYuk]

I am confused. Are you saying that the 6/75 that you buy at in service date does not even start till after the 3/36 is over? That seems to be a change from when I ran shops. So, in theory, if you buy the 6/75 at new vehicle delivery, you then have the 3/36 and then an additional 6/75 after that 3/36. Basically, that means the warranties combined are 9/111, correct? If that is the case, then I have to rethink my thoughts about an extended warranty. Do all the extended warranties work that way?

So, the OP, GM Epp plan at $3000 would break down to, in my 6/75 scenario, to $500 a year for the extended coverage, after the original bumper to bumper warranty runs out?

Is there a norm on the deductibles?

I bought the 96 month 100k 0 deductible GM PP platinum warranty. 3000 was the cost. It runs concurrently so you get 3/36k factory bumper to bumper then additional 5 years 64k for a total of 8 years and 100k miles.

The deductible cost makes a difference in total price as does when it's purchased. Cheapest when vehicle is new. The GM PP is fully transferable too.