rockola1971
Full Access Member
You mean like a factory bose amplifier (at the speaker) shorted?
Electrical issue... grounding? short?
- Thread starter nosole
- Start date
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Humor us and get the battery charged and tested, just to rule it out. Go from there.
You could put a current meter on it (DVOMs can usually handle 5 or 10 amps through the current ports). Might blow the internal fuse if it's more than it can handle, but then you'd know.
You could put a current meter on it (DVOMs can usually handle 5 or 10 amps through the current ports). Might blow the internal fuse if it's more than it can handle, but then you'd know.
mm or the starter cable shorted/melted, my 18 silverado had a nice cooked one even at 35k looked like some burnt bbq meatYou mean like a factory bose amplifier (at the speaker) shorted?
So, as of now, I can confirm it is a bad battery. I charged it yesterday, let it sit overnight, and it discharged to about 12.35V. Took it to autozone just now to get tested and it is indeed bad.
I do feel like there’s another gremlin lurking, but I’ll have to wait to see until I get a new battery in there.
Thanks for all your help so far.
I do feel like there’s another gremlin lurking, but I’ll have to wait to see until I get a new battery in there.
Thanks for all your help so far.
rockola1971
Full Access Member
A bad ground causing the BCM not to goto sleep will ruin a battery and give similar symptoms that you are experiencing. A car battery is not designed to be loaded down towards zero volts and cycled from low charge to fully charged alot. That is what a deep cycle is designed for. Deep cycling a car battery will ruin it and that is what happens when chasing the famous BCM wont goto sleep scenario.
Thanks! I'll keep an eye on that in case anything flares up.
Got a new battery, popped it in, and all the weird issues vanished. I feel silly for trying to read too far into this, but I've never had a bad battery create such logic defying (at least for me) symptoms. But hey, this all goes in the experience vault for next time, so I'll take it as a valuable lesson.
Thanks all for your input! Very much appreciated!
rockola1971
Full Access Member
To give you more insight on exactly what happened we have to dig into what is a battery. Your "automotive battery" isnt really a battery. It is a Jar or Cannister with multiple batteries (cells) inside. They are situated in series. So if one goes dead or electrically opens up the whole string is useless (just like cutting a wire in half). If one of those batteries (cells) becomes weak then it drags down all the cells because they are in series. The max amount of current that can flow through a series circuit of batteries is limited to the amount of the weakest cell since that weak cell cant flow current as high as the others. So your battery had a bad Cell or even more than one. The amount of voltage and current flow was limited and not up to spec. The Instrument Cluster has electronics that only work within a specific voltage range. If the range is not met then it goes crazy and does all sorts of odd things.
Moral of the story is if electronics are going crazy then the first thing that should be done is LOAD TEST the battery. Notice I did NOT say test the battery. Test could mean alot of things to different people. A load test checks the voltage output and current providing capability of a Battery. Just checking the voltage of a battery with a voltmeter gives you a very limited amount of information to start with but it can yield a clue. For instance if you go out and measure with a voltmeter and the battery is 10.9v then its either a bad battery, been discharged by something or the alternator isnt charging it........ Or you are getting a bad reading because your battery terminals are corroded. See how all those went different directions for troubleshooting.
