Engine Failure 170k Timing Jumped Bent Pushrods Collapsed Lifters

[07YUKONXL534x4]

2007 GMC Yukon XL 5.3 Flex Fuel 4x4 Alum Block 170,000 miles

Current Diagnosis: Timing jumped causing valve train damage to cyl 2 and 4 and possibly more.


I am the fourth owner of this vehicle, having bought it three years ago with 140k miles. Good service history. Pretty clean and very straight. It has always used a little oil between changes, and puffed smoke when changing from 4 cyl to 8 cyl mode. I never deactivated the DOD/AFM. I have never had a major issue with it. It had a few codes when I bought it. I cleaned the throttle body, changed the gas pedal sensor and cleaned the mass air sensor. No problems with codes afterwards. I put a new battery, belts, brakes, tires on it. It ran a little rough at idle so I put AC Delco Iridium plugs and new plug wires on it. Still idled a little rough, not hideous.


Sunday, on our way home from a long trip, cruising down the interstate at 75 mph, not a single warning, suddenly the Yukon went into limp mode and died. SERVICE STABILITRACK light popped up. I got it over to the shoulder and checked the gauges. Info center showed stabilitrack message (I know this could be many, many different things). I tried to re-start it. It would crank, but not start and it didn't sound right. I tried several things on the side of the road including pulling the On-Star fuse, tried to pull negative battery cable to reset the computer, etc. No luck. Nothing obvious I could see either. I jiggled every single sensor connection I could get my hands on. No change.


We were several hours away from home, but we had friends who knew people in the area. We found a good towing service and got the Yukon to a reputable mechanic’s shop. This was a Sunday so the mechanic was not there. I tried one more thing, I bought a 24” long ground cable and grounded from the stud on the firewall to the alternator bracket. No change, turns over, but won’t start. I had to rent a car and leave the Yukon behind so we could get back to work and the kids back to school the following day.


The mechanic checked compression. Cylinder 2 has low compression. He pulled the valve cover and everything appeared to be operating correctly. He thought it may be valve seat. I asked him to pull the head to confirm bad valve seats before I committed to repairs. He called back later and said cylinder 2 and 4 are low compression, push rods are bent and possible collapsed lifters. He said the timing jumped and caused this collision of parts.


Price to replace cam, lifters, push rods timing chain bits, etc... $5,000 roughly out the door price.


Price for salvage engine w/ 113k miles 6 month warranty: $5,300 out the door


Price for a reman Jasper engine w/ DOD Delete 3 yr/100k mile warranty: $6,600 out the door

(The engine itself, my price online, is $3,660, skid charge $15, Install Kit: $464, Prem Serv Plan $255 for total of $4,394 engine only. Labor, supplies and taxes make up remaining $2,206).


Does this sound correct? Anyone else had this issue or similar? Does the pricing seem accurate?


I’m getting the engine swap quoted at a local shop just for comparison sake. May be cheaper for me to have it towed home and have work done here instead. Thanks for any tips, advice….condolences. HAHA!!

 

[07Burb]

Yes, those prices sound pretty accurate for what you're describing. I'm surprised you had that kind of carnage from a failed lifter(s). That's pretty wild.

 

[07YUKONXL534x4]

I'm surprised you had that kind of carnage from a failed lifter(s). That's pretty wild.

Mechanic said it began with a jump in timing then resulted in possible collapsed lifters.

 

[kbuskill]

I'm not saying the shop is dishonest but I am skeptical of the jumped timing theory.

These trucks run a chain that GM says is good for at least 200k miles.

Seems more likely that it is just bad/collapsed lifters/wiped cam lobe. Either way at this point I guess it's kind of a moot point.

You could save a chunk of money if you have the ability/time to do the cam swap your self.

If not, I would probably bite the bullet and go with a Jasper reman if you intend on keeping the truck for a while, as it's not that much more money in the grand scheme of things. Would be nice if Jasper would build it without the DOD/AFM cam and lifters.

 

[07YUKONXL534x4]

Yes, I don't believe it was the chain itself, but either the gears or tensioner.

You could be right about cam and/or lifters. Hard to tell I imagine. Yes, damage is done.

Jasper does offer DOD|AFM delete. Its a couple hundred more over stock. I believe Jasper supplies the Diablo tuner that turns off the function along with the engine. That's the price I listed above. That's all according to the mechanic.

 

[kbuskill]

Yes, I don't believe it was the chain itself, but either the gears or tensioner.

You could be right about cam and/or lifters. Hard to tell I imagine. Yes, damage is done.

Jasper does offer DOD|AFM delete. Its a couple hundred more over stock. I believe Jasper supplies the Diablo tuner that turns off the function along with the engine. That's the price I listed above. That's all according to the mechanic.

I went back and reread your post and now I see where you said W/DOD delete... sometimes I have a case of the dumb... lol

If that is the case then I believe that is the route I would go if I intended on keeping the truck for an extended period of time. And if it does come with a Diablo tuner I would pay the extra $150 and get a custom tune from Lew at Diablew... Well worth it in my opinion.

 

[Warriorpluto]

Those prices you quoted are way too high for a 5.3. totally outrageous. Those are new or very low mileage 6.2 prices. No way i would pay over 2k for a used 5.3. i just had your exact problem but it was lifter failure in an 2011 Tahoe. I got an 123k pull out from lkq for $1300 and had a friend to install it for $500. I would shop around some more for an engine. Even people in Texas and Louisiana sell engine and transmission drop out for less than $3500 5.3 and 6.2. do not spend 5k for a 5.3. that's crazy to do

 

[07Burb]

Those prices you quoted are way too high for a 5.3. totally outrageous. Those are new or very low mileage 6.2 prices. No way i would pay over 2k for a used 5.3. i just had your exact problem but it was lifter failure in an 2011 Tahoe. I got an 123k pull out from lkq for $1300 and had a friend to install it for $500. I would shop around some more for an engine. Even people in Texas and Louisiana sell engine and transmission drop out for less than $3500 5.3 and 6.2. do not spend 5k for a 5.3. that's crazy to do

What made you decide to replace the engine due to lifter failure? Why not just replace the lifters, tune out DOD and move on? Did you replace the lifters (or do any other refreshing on it) in that 123k mile motor before putting it into your vehicle?

 

[EfrainlCazares]

I had a similar situation as you in June. About 20mins from home, noise started coming from the right side of my 11 Yukon Denali. Wife asked if I hear it too, pulled over and I could hear knocking.....drove home, at 20mph got it ready to tow back to dealer.
Luckily I have lifetime engine/drivetrain warranty!!
Two days after I towed it in, dealercalls me and said they were replacing engine.....
Luckily it happened close and not somewhere along I10 in middle of nowhere Texas.....
The engine only had 115k.....

 

[07YUKONXL534x4]

I had a similar situation as you in June. About 20mins from home, noise started coming from the right side of my 11 Yukon Denali. Wife asked if I hear it too, pulled over and I could hear knocking.....drove home, at 20mph got it ready to tow back to dealer.
Luckily I have lifetime engine/drivetrain warranty!!
Two days after I towed it in, dealercalls me and said they were replacing engine.....
Luckily it happened close and not somewhere along I10 in middle of nowhere Texas.....
The engine only had 115k.....

Thank you for sharing. Everything else in the truck seems to be holding up, except the dash board. I'll put this engine and continue on. Still less than buying a new car or low mileage used car.