Engine not reaching operating temperature

[Fless]

MIne is just the opposite of yours, @bottomline2000. The heater hose coming off the water pump with the tee goes to the driver's side on mine. I have rear heat, so it tees again as it goes into the heater core.

 

[bottomline2000]

MIne is just the opposite of yours, @bottomline2000. The heater hose coming off the water pump with the tee goes to the driver's side on mine. I have rear heat, so it tees again as it goes into the heater core.

#FAIL ﹰﹰﹰlol..this crazy..I don't have rear heat, but I guess the heater core isn't directional. I didn't see a ﹰT in the OP truck so maybe he doesn't have rear heat..

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk

 

[Matahoe]

What's wrong with the green stuff?

Technically there is nothing wrong with running ANY type of coolant in our system so long as the previous coolant is flushed out in whole. Really it all comes down to maintenance interval and characteristics of the coolant you put in.

Green inorganic silicate coolant is fine as long as you change it religiously (~30,000 miles) or else you will start to see galvanic and corrosive effects.. Take a look at this video by Scotty Kilmer. It explains it all pretty much.

 

[Chiller449]

#FAIL ﹰﹰﹰlol..this crazy..I don't have rear heat, but I guess the heater core isn't directional. I didn't see a ﹰT in the OP truck so maybe he doesn't have rear heat..

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk

Yes i have rear heat. I do have the T its just not pictured. Thanks for the idea though.

Technically there is nothing wrong with running ANY type of coolant in our system so long as the previous coolant is flushed out in whole. Really it all comes down to maintenance interval and characteristics of the coolant you put in.

Green inorganic silicate coolant is fine as long as you change it religiously (~30,000 miles) or else you will start to see galvanic and corrosive effects.. Take a look at this video by Scotty Kilmer. It explains it all pretty much.

Everything was flushed thoroughly before adding the green stuff. Including the heater core and engine block. All of this was done when I put the new radiator in. I found a hose that might work for running from the rad to the surge tank. Im putting it on this weekend. Im really not satisfied with this though and am really thinking about just putting an oem radiator back in it. Anyone know if Gm made a 3 core radiator that will fit in a Tahoe that has that re-stricter plate in it?

 

[swathdiver]

Technically there is nothing wrong with running ANY type of coolant in our system so long as the previous coolant is flushed out in whole.

IAT coolant typically lasts but two years and has a lower operating temperature. It is also much harder on rubber hoses.

James, plug your VIN in over at ACDelco or GMPartsDirect or GMPartsKing and see what was available for yours. If you do not have the built in engine oil cooler, consider the radiator that does as it will usually have bigger tanks and probably a third row.

 

[Chiller449]

IAT coolant typically lasts but two years and has a lower operating temperature. It is also much harder on rubber hoses.

James, plug your VIN in over at ACDelco or GMPartsDirect or GMPartsKing and see what was available for yours. If you do not have the built in engine oil cooler, consider the radiator that does as it will usually have bigger tanks and probably a third row.

Ill do that. Mt Tahoe does not have an oil cooler. So ill try and get a radiator that does. This aluminum one does but I dont think im gonna be able to get it to work.

 

[SnowDrifter]

IAT coolant typically lasts but two years and has a lower operating temperature. It is also much harder on rubber hoses.

James, plug your VIN in over at ACDelco or GMPartsDirect or GMPartsKing and see what was available for yours. If you do not have the built in engine oil cooler, consider the radiator that does as it will usually have bigger tanks and probably a third row.

Wasn't IAT coolant phased out in the early 2000s? i.e. when all the long life coolants came onto market?

 

[SnowDrifter]

Technically there is nothing wrong with running ANY type of coolant in our system so long as the previous coolant is flushed out in whole. Really it all comes down to maintenance interval and characteristics of the coolant you put in.

Green inorganic silicate coolant is fine as long as you change it religiously (~30,000 miles) or else you will start to see galvanic and corrosive effects.. Take a look at this video by Scotty Kilmer. It explains it all pretty much.

Scotty is a friggin' hack. The amount of inaccuracies in his videos about makes me put my head through my desk.

1. New antifreeze is just as poisonous to animals as the old stuff. It's still ethylene glycol based. That's what is toxic.

2. Coolant doesn't have anything conductive in it. What happens is with repeated heat cycles, the pH buffers in it wear out. Without going into chemistry, a pH that is either too acidic or too alkaline will begin to dissolve the metals in your engine - primarily aluminum and iron. With acidic favoring iron, and aluminum being a picky thing dissolving on both ends. These suspended ions are what gives the coolant its conductivity, essentially turning your engine into a battery - internal corrosion. Oh yeah, don't forget that your spinning water pump creates static electricity that helps to feed the whole thing. Anything over .2v, I condemn the coolant.

"But the internet said .3v!!."
Yeah that's a crock of shit. If you're at .3v you're well past any protections the coolant has offered and now you're actively destroying your engine. Why do I choose .2v? More chemistry! The electromotive potential of iron is 1.83v, and aluminum is 1.61v. What's important to note here is the difference between the two. 0.22v. That's your magic number. Anything above that and you've forced a battery.

3. Silicates are no longer needed in coolant to the same degree they once were. They were an old school method of protecting parts as it would form a layer over whatever came in contact with it. Not unlike a wax. Huge tl;dr we can form that protective coating without relying on them now. Why don't you want to use silicates though? Well.. They're incredibly abrasive. Yeah they do a good job of protecting metals but they chew through any soft bits like hoses, water pump gaskets, etc. You'll have some coolants that have a very small amount of silicate, I think HOATs do, but they're not packed full of the stuff and are what I would argue is, generally safe.


Fun fact: OATs are a known plasticizer. They make nylon brittle. Our heater core connectors are plastic. Dexcool is OAT. Make sense why they break now?

 

[Matahoe]

Dude...take a pill. You are kind of just arguing about nothing. The Kilmer video is still very informative.

 

[Matahoe]

Ill do that. Mt Tahoe does not have an oil cooler. So ill try and get a radiator that does. This aluminum one does but I dont think im gonna be able to get it to work.

You don't need an oil cooler unless you have a need for one. I.e. you tow a lot in hot weather. It's more of an oil heater than a cooler.