Decided to do a complete rebuild. 07 5.3l Suburban. Older cars and younger days ago. I preferred to pill xmsn with the engine. How is that now on these vehicles?. Looking for tips and tricks and advice. I haven't decided yet. I just pulled the intake and disconnected everything on the engine.
I don't think it's worth the hassle to remove them together. I'm pretty sure you'd have to disassemble the whole core support as I don't believe there's enough length to tilt it in or out. I R/R'ed my engine with the mounts bolted to it and radiator in place. Just slipped out the electric fans and rotated the engine sideways. The only real snag with the trans is the top four bellhousing bolts. But, with the intake manifold outta the way, you can reach them with a wrench. I was tearing everything down for mine so I pulled the heads to make reaching those bolts a piece of cake. When I reinstalled the engine, I bolted up the trans then installed the heads in the bay.
Funniest thing..... I realized ive had it for 7 years and only put 40K on it. It has 183K now. Well taken care of (previous owner and me). We have a truck as well plus my ST1300 which is my daily driver. I dont need to rebuild it to get 300K out of it. Before the lifter issue we have never had any major problems. I feel confident that putting a better cam, springs, pushrods, valve stem seals and a trunnion upgrade it will last. Also getting it tuned properly. Deleting AFM, power from new cam setup. so looks like i will be keeping the bottom end in place . While on the subject. the towers for the AFM lifters under the VLOM. Do we plug them or leave them alone ? what do ya do with them?
With a mild cam, the stock rockers are perfectly fine. Trunnion kit is more of a "just cuz" thing at this level. My opinion is to not introduce other potential failure points with aftermarket setups. I recently replaced my 215K-mile original rockers with a full set of new-in-their-original-packaging GM OE rockers off eBay for $9.99/each. Other than the oil staining, I couldn't tell the difference between my originals and my the ones. Put that trunnion money towards a CircleD torque converter.
I pulled my engine entirely to make working on it easier and I wanted to thoroughly inspect it and replace all the seals. I didn't go any deeper into the bottom end other than to replace the cam. Didn't even replace any bearings. If I were to go that far, then it would've been a total rebuild- hone (or bore to 5.7), new bearings, rings, etc.
I've heard of those built-in factory O-rings of the VLOM leaking, although it's likely on aged engines or built ones running higher oil pressures. Even though I had an LS3 VLOM, I wanted to be 100% sure leaking would never be a possibility. I accomplished this with about $5 in materials:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/post-1426713
I also replaced the AFM pressure release valve in the oil pan with a plug:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/post-1427085
My whole AFM delete/upgrade project starts here:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/post-1423842