Engine shuts off while driving

[jfoj]

If the dealer is covering the crank sensor, then let them replace it since it triggered a code. But also undertand that the P0016 code is a bit funny, it is not necessarily indicative of a faulty crank or cam sensor. It could point to that, but it indicates the crank and cam sensor coorelation is more of a problem.

This could be more of an issue with a grounding, wiring or Voltage spiking issue.

But I guess let the dealer do their thing then they will need to learn and go from there.

I would be looking at wiring diagrams to see if for some reason the electrical power steering has a common grounding point or if the engine ground may be problematic.

Since the steering input shut the engine down, I would be finding out where the streering ground is attached and check the engine to frame ground closely.

If replacing the crank sensor does not solve the problem, my next test would be to start the process where you can get the engine to quit, BUT I would get a set of jumper cables and make temporary grounds from the battery to the chassis and battery to the engine block. Start the engine and turn the steering, if the engine does not die, then remove the jumper cables and repeat. If the engine dies without the jumper cables, you then know 100% there is a problem ground connection.

Good luck.

 

[sasso]

Sooooooooo, replaced crank sensor, cleared codes car started.

And then proceeded to stall once load was applied. Literally 20ft of driving.

Gonna try what jfoj suggested next time it is running.

Thank you all for your help

 

[jfoj]

I am pretty sure the ECM is on the drivers side just in front of the drivers side tire under the splash shield.

There may be a lot going on electrically in the left front of the vehicle.

All the engine sensors and ECM need a decent ground reference and power reference for all the sensors. Many sensors have a 5 Volt reference and if for some reason the ground or 5 Volt reference is compromised, then you will have problems and strange problems.

I would also go back to a decent Voltmeter with Max and Min hold as well as putting other heavy electrical loads other than the steering. If other heavy electrical loads do not kill the engine, then your focus should be on the steering, pull steering fuse to determine if the problem is a "mechanical" issue with wiring being pinched or rubbing, or if the problem is "electrical".

Pretty quick to narrow down as long as you can repeat the engine quiting without too much delay.

Good luck.

 

[WalleyeMikeIII]

Just saw this out on the mfg communications on NHTSA web site...doesn't quite exactly sound like your issue (other than the subsequent crank/no start)

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2025/MC-11016149-0001.pdf

 

[blanchard7684]

I am pretty sure the ECM is on the drivers side just in front of the drivers side tire under the splash shield.

There may be a lot going on electrically in the left front of the vehicle.

All the engine sensors and ECM need a decent ground reference and power reference for all the sensors. Many sensors have a 5 Volt reference and if for some reason the ground or 5 Volt reference is compromised, then you will have problems and strange problems.

I would also go back to a decent Voltmeter with Max and Min hold as well as putting other heavy electrical loads other than the steering. If other heavy electrical loads do not kill the engine, then your focus should be on the steering, pull steering fuse to determine if the problem is a "mechanical" issue with wiring being pinched or rubbing, or if the problem is "electrical".

Pretty quick to narrow down as long as you can repeat the engine quiting without too much delay.

Good luck.

Yep. This is where I’d focus next.

 

[Sundancer]

So, just after 2 hour drive, approaching my parking my engine just shuts off, and i get a message saying restart engine. I go to restart it but it cranks and doesnt start. While waiting for the tow truck, about an hour and a half later the car starts up just fine. I drive around for a but and it shuts off again. get it towed to the dealer and they change battery sensor and do some reprogramming, i drive it out and 10 mins later same thing happens again. Dealership is useless cause they never seem to diagnose the problem when it is happening as on cold start the car starts and runs fine. So i took it back changed the fuel pump control module the next time it shuts off but that didnt seem to fix it. now i have it at an independent garage, anyone have any ideas as what it could be? Im gonna also change the crankshaft position sensor tomorrow.

2023 Yukon SLT 5.3l

I have almost the same issue going on on my 2011 Tahoe LTZ since November. Mine just hesitates on a cold crank initially but then starts up perfectly and the rest of the day is okay. I have gone to the Chevy dealer 3 separate times as my mechanic did not have the necessary diagnostic tools available since I had no codes. Dealer initially replaced the battery, then on the second visit the Throttle Position Sensor, the air filter and on my last visit the entire Throttle body. Problem solved for 2 weeks and boom, the same issues all over. I then took it to an engine diagnostic place that was recommended to me and they had the car for a week, cleaning out connections and could not determine the issue at all. The trip to the dealer was expensive to say the least but also fruitless. The independent Engine place only charged me $100. I have never had any issues with my truck since I bought it 14 years ago...the frustration was killing me but since I am not a mechanic I have opted to sell it being totally transparent about the issue.

 

[Doubeleive]

I have almost the same issue going on on my 2011 Tahoe LTZ since November. Mine just hesitates on a cold crank initially but then starts up perfectly and the rest of the day is okay. I have gone to the Chevy dealer 3 separate times as my mechanic did not have the necessary diagnostic tools available since I had no codes. Dealer initially replaced the battery, then on the second visit the Throttle Position Sensor, the air filter and on my last visit the entire Throttle body. Problem solved for 2 weeks and boom, the same issues all over. I then took it to an engine diagnostic place that was recommended to me and they had the car for a week, cleaning out connections and could not determine the issue at all. The trip to the dealer was expensive to say the least but also fruitless. The independent Engine place only charged me $100. I have never had any issues with my truck since I bought it 14 years ago...the frustration was killing me but since I am not a mechanic I have opted to sell it being totally transparent about the issue.

yours is a different generation all-together, different software, no electric steering.
cold start and hot die are also completely different, but you could start your own thread in the gmt900 forum under engine/drivetrain

 

[Fless]

Sooooooooo, replaced crank sensor, cleared codes car started.

And then proceeded to stall once load was applied. Literally 20ft of driving.

Gonna try what jfoj suggested next time it is running.

Thank you all for your help

During this time, has a CASE relearn been done? It's quick and easy with a capable scanner, and will sync the cam and crank sensors so they know their relative positions. It's just something to rule out and should be done any time either sensor is changed (and if either sensor is suspected as the culprit).

 

[sasso]

havent tried anything today, super frustrated and upset. will do the CASE relearn, and the additional ground points. could be a bad fuel pressure sensor.

 

[blanchard7684]

havent tried anything today, super frustrated and upset. will do the CASE relearn, and the additional ground points. could be a bad fuel pressure sensor.

Hang in there. You've done some good work.