Engine Swap to stroked 6.0 (408) and general vehicle refurbishment

[Chooko]

I’ll comment on the part that I have, which is the Pioneer in my sig. It’s a POS. Glitchy, inconsistent behavior of the interface. Laggy and inconsistent wireless CarPlay response.

If I do another road trip with the Hoe I’ll be replacing mine.

My brother has one in his Silverado that behaves just like mine.

I love the idea of the stroked out 6 liter. I hope you’ll do a thread on your project in the Under Construction area.

Dang, thats really dissapointing to hear. I have also been underwhelmed with Apple Carplay at times in other cars, but it was one of the main features that I was looking for, so I was certainly hoping for better reviews. Is it possible that your unit needs a software update?

 

[Chooko]

She has 3.08 gears? If so, 3.42s or 3.73s would be a must to get her moving, especially with a cam that moves the powerband north of stock.

Lots of guys have posted engine builds with lots of photos on here.

Check out Sonnax's website about what you might want to upgrade with regards to the 6L80. Check out Precision Transmission's videos on youtube.

Should make gobs of torque with the 243/799 heads. You'll want/need larger injectors, maybe the ones from the L9H.

Well, I think it has 3.08's in it. At least I believe I read that that's what it came with? I could be wrong about that though, if you or anyone else knows that they came with something else? I will definitely check out those resources and I thank you for them. I was wondering about the injectors, and I actually emailed Texas Speed yesterday about it, and got the following response this morning:

Typically on a build like this the stock fuel system will be just fine other than injectors in many cases. Now that will somewhat depend on which injector you have as the later years had a few different ones available for them. Many of them were flex fuel vehicles which came with a 36ish lb injector from the factory in which case it would be fine. If it is smaller then i would recommend getting new ones. If you are going to buy new ones i would typically do a 42lb.

So I guess I need to figure out which injectors I have.

 

[The Raven]

@TheRaven I hate it even when the phone is not involved. The onscreen controls are finicky and I don’t have steering wheel controls. Volume difficult to adjust quickly. Power on/off often requires repeated presses or outright refuses to respond. It’s a boat anchor waiting to happen for me.

Strange. I have the complete opposite experience. My NEX (which is my third) is the best HU i've ever used. It's near perfect for me. I had the 7000, then the 7100, and now the 8400...all were fantastic. That's why I figured CarPlay might be the issue. I've never used CarPlay on any HU.

 

[Chooko]

I don't think you'll get the engine in or out with the intake on it. Here's mine. I did end up having to pull the passenger side manifold and dipstick tube off. Everything else stayed on. Go in sideways and spin it once you get past the cowl.

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Thanks for the advice! I think I might have read a thread of yours that went into this in more detail. Did you have one? I think the whole point about spinning the engine into place is somethign that I might not have thought of right off of the bat, and I am going to remember that when the time comes. Would it be feasible to put it in with neither manifold installed? My thought was to pull them off completely before removing the old engine and then install the new engine without them, and then reinstall them once the engine is bolted to the mounts? Is that a bad idea?

 

[swathdiver]

Well, I think it has 3.08's in it. At least I believe I read that that's what it came with? I could be wrong about that though, if you or anyone else knows that they came with something else? I will definitely check out those resources and I thank you for them. I was wondering about the injectors, and I actually emailed Texas Speed yesterday about it, and got the following response this morning:

Typically on a build like this the stock fuel system will be just fine other than injectors in many cases. Now that will somewhat depend on which injector you have as the later years had a few different ones available for them. Many of them were flex fuel vehicles which came with a 36ish lb injector from the factory in which case it would be fine. If it is smaller then i would recommend getting new ones. If you are going to buy new ones i would typically do a 42lb.

So I guess I need to figure out which injectors I have.

Your injectors are 12613411 which are rated at 37.5 pounds per hour at 58 psi. The L9H injectors are 12609749 are rated for 54 pounds per hour at 58 psi.

In your glovebox is the RPO Sheet, a sticker. Look at your "G" codes, GU4 = 3.08s, GU6 = 3.42s. If yours is a 4x4, if it has the former it will have a single speed transfer case, the MP3010. It'll have the MP3023, the 2-speed transfer case with 3.42s.

Consider also the 9.5" 14-bolt axle instead of the Tru-Trac. Or put a Tru-Trac in the 14-bolt!

These fellas come to mind who have stroker motors: @randeez @01ssreda4 @67RS427

 

[THarber]

Aaahh reminds me of what I just did to my old H2.
Your stock throttle body is going to be 72mm to 78mm, I forget which. That's not enough for that motor. You will need to upgrade to a 4 bolt 90mm and I'd recommend a ACDelco unit for a Corvette. Your intake might also need to be upgraded to the 4 bolt unless you want to run an adapter. Look at any later model truck intake from a flex fuel truck or find a TBSS intake. You will also more than likely need a XLink to make the new throttle body work with your existing wiring, Texas Speed sells them. Then, to make life even better, you probably have 30 some odd pound injectors which are also too small. Look into getting some truck flex fuel injectors which are 40 to 50 lbs. They will also require an adapter pigtail. Too small of an injector and throttle body will push the injector duty cycle way out of whack and you'll never get it to run right. Nothing against BB for a tune but I think you're into HP Tuners territory to get the most out of your combination. I'd tell you not to waste your time keeping the VVT but sounds like you're set on it. A good stage II low lift cam will do wonders for low end. Look for a TB I6 converter, its a factory stall that should flash a round 2600 rpm in your truck, that's about perfect. I might have missed which heads you're going to run but if you don't have them, I'd suggest finding a set of 243's, they are smaller chambered and will up compression which will again help the low end.

Good luck!
Tim

 

[m1949]

I have been a member here for several years, but have only rarely posted, although I have to say that the times I have needed help the members of this forum have been extremely responsive and helpful and I greatly appreciate it.

I have a 2010 Tahoe that we bought soon after out daughter was born in 2012. It had 60,000 miles on it then. It has 220,000 now. It has been a rock solid, reliable family vehicle for most of that time, and we sure got our moneys worth out of it. Mods to date are pretty minimal, but include added USB charging outlets in the front and rear, MSD starter, and aftermarket wheels (they were on it when we bought it and I don't even remember the brand). All was fine with this Tahoe until about two years ago and around 210,000 miles. One day while I was deployed it overheated and left my wife stranded on the side of the road. She had it towed to the local crook (I mean mechanic) who told her it had a blown head gasket, which was probably true, and that it "wasn't worth fixing" (pretty sure he was hoping she'd offer to sell it to him cheap). Being as I was deployed, there wasn't much I could do, and so she went and bought a 2019 Grand Cherokee to replace it. I HATED the Jeep from the moment she picked me up in it when I got home from that deployment, and have refused to part ways with the Tahoe, and still drive it whenever the whole family goes anywhere because it is so much more comfortable than the Jeep.

However, all was not fine with the 5.3, and it has been using coolant (remember that blown head gasket?) and has also had oil pressure issues including what I perceive to be a very gradual overall loss in oil pressure. It fouls the #7 plug constantly as well (again, the head gasket). I just haven't wanted to pull the head off because I was afraid of what I'd find, and have been nursing it along for the past couple of years knowing that eventually the day would come. Well, the day came a couple of weeks ago. I was cruising on the interstate with my wife in the car, looked down, and the temperature gauge was pegged. I had topped off the coolant that morning, so this was definitely not expected. Before I could get pulled over there was a loud pop. When I got to the side of the road and opened the hood coolant was everywhere. One tow truck ride later (he let us ride in the Tahoe on the tow truck which my wife thought was the greatest thing ever), and its in my drive way. Once it cooled off I looked around. The loud bang was the pressed in back of the 8 month old water pump blowing off the pump.

At this point I was expecting heavy pressure to send her to the junkyard, but my wife is a special kind of woman. We talked about it, and she agreed that the Tahoe is our family vehicle, and so I have a significant budget to put a new engine in the car and also do a bunch of updating. The intent is to make the car as mechanically sound and reliable as possible, while also updating some things to make it more comfortable in 2021. Thus far I have ordered:

-A brand new engine from Texas Speed. Its an Iron block 6 liter stroked to 408 with a Texas Speed Cathedral Port heads, their Stage 2 VVT Cam ( I want to keep VVT), Wiseco pistons, and a bunch of other goodies. I also bought from Texas Speed an Air Raid intake and filter box. The plan will be to use the factory intake manifold, and bolt this engine right in place of the 5.3 with minimal wiring, etc.

-Eaton True-Trac Posi unit (considering going to 3.42 gears, but haven't decided yet.

-Lots of mounts (poly), u-joints, timing chain covers, etc

-Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid (Have the annoying gas-clicking-off-when-you-try-to-fill-it syndrome)

-Pioneer DMH-W4660NEX with all new JBL speakers

-Backup camera (My Tahoe didn't come with one and I've always wanted to add one) which will go to the Pioneer.

-New stock replacement headlight housings with LED bulbs


Things I'm planning to do

-Have my 6L80E rebuilt and strengthened (Never had a single issue with it, but with 220,000 miles and a significantly more powerful engine coming, it seems prudent).

-Tune of course (Probably BlackBear, but I need to do more research because I want to be able to use the software and find tuners who use the same software for both this car as well as my 2005 GTO. For whatever reason it seems like the GTO community largely uses HP tuners)

-Flex plate (I'll have a look at the one on the 5.3 and decide)

-Torque converter (Maybe Circle D, maybe not, I'm still weighing options I'm thinking 2200-2400)

Shorty headers (I Know, I know, longtubes make more power. But I have always found them to be a complete hassle, and I think I'll be making enough power as it is. I just want something to give a little more rumble, and look nice in the engine bay). The other option is to have the stock manifolds sandblasted and coated.

I'd say that I am a fairly accomplished shade-tree mechanic, although this is far and away the largest job I have ever taken on by myself (I do have friends around that can help with the more physical aspects). I am pretty well stocked with tools, including multiple impact guns and other power tools, a significant amount of metric and SAE hand tools, and two floor jacks (one low profile) as well as a third floor jack that I converted to a transmission jack. I recently bought an engine hoist with a leveler and an engine stand, and the new engine will come on a stand. Ive done shocks/struts and brakes inteh last 10,000 miles, so I'm not planning on anything in either of those areas at the moment.

The plan, in a nutshell, is to work on radio, rear end, etc, while keeping the Tahoe mobile (it still runs and can move in and out of the garage or up and down the driveway). The engine wont be ready for 14-16 weeks. I am planning to pull the transmission in about 8 weeks (final determination once I pick a shop and see what their time line looks like) so that it is hopefully ready around the same time as the engine. I also bought a Dirty Dingo lifting plate, although I'm wondering if anyone has removed and installed an engine into one of these vehicles with the intake installed installed on the engine, and if so, where did you attach the hoist chains? I am considering getting a set of junk wheels with no tires to put on it to lower it a bit for the engine swap. Any thoughts on that?

So that's what I'm up to. And I am looking to all of you folks for advise and guidance. If anyone has done this, or something similar, in their garage or driveway, and sees anything that I am missing parts wise or plan wise, or has anything they ran across during the process that they wish they had known or thought of going in, I'm all ears.

I'll get pictures up as the parts start to show up and as I start doing work.

Joe

Sounds like an awesome build. Good luck! You mention you are thinking about swapping to a 3.42 rearend. Are you going to higher or lower gears? I'm asking because since I do no towing, I'm thinking of replacing my 3.73 with 3.23 for better fuel economy. At 70mph the 3.73 to 3.23 gear swap will reduce rpms from 1861 to 1611; which in theory should improve fuel economy. But I haven't found anyone who has made the change and can tell me how much improvement, if any, to expect. If I can't recoup the cost of the swap in say 3 years, I'll likely leave things alone.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Thanks for the advice! I think I might have read a thread of yours that went into this in more detail. Did you have one? I think the whole point about spinning the engine into place is somethign that I might not have thought of right off of the bat, and I am going to remember that when the time comes. Would it be feasible to put it in with neither manifold installed? My thought was to pull them off completely before removing the old engine and then install the new engine without them, and then reinstall them once the engine is bolted to the mounts? Is that a bad idea?

I don't have build thread. I forget to take pics of everything as I'm doing it. Take a look at @iamdub thread. He documents everything very well.

I pulled the harmonic balancer and water pump off when I pulled the engine. I left the exhaust manifolds on and did not have the twist the engine sideways.

Being in that position was uncomfortable for the balancer so I put it and the water pump on prior to installing (I honestly forgot that I pulled it off before I pulled then engine out). The solution was to remove the passenger side manifold because its super easy to install on the truck. The driver side is worse. You can certainly install them afterwards though. I'm not a fan of crouching over and engine to fiddle with bolts though.

If you have any other questions, I'll do my best to help.

 

[Chooko]

Your injectors are 12613411 which are rated at 37.5 pounds per hour at 58 psi. The L9H injectors are 12609749 are rated for 54 pounds per hour at 58 psi.

In your glovebox is the RPO Sheet, a sticker. Look at your "G" codes, GU4 = 3.08s, GU6 = 3.42s. If yours is a 4x4, if it has the former it will have a single speed transfer case, the MP3010. It'll have the MP3023, the 2-speed transfer case with 3.42s.

Consider also the 9.5" 14-bolt axle instead of the Tru-Trac. Or put a Tru-Trac in the 14-bolt!

These fellas come to mind who have stroker motors: @randeez @01ssreda4 @67RS427

Thanks! That's great information. I am attaching a picture of my RPO sticker. Looks like I do have 3.08's. What exactly goes into this 14 bolt swap? I imagine that its bolt in as far as getting the rear end in. Will my factory brakes bolt right up?

 

[Chooko]

I don't have build thread. I forget to take pics of everything as I'm doing it. Take a look at @iamdub thread. He documents everything very well.

I pulled the harmonic balancer and water pump off when I pulled the engine. I left the exhaust manifolds on and did not have the twist the engine sideways.

Being in that position was uncomfortable for the balancer so I put it and the water pump on prior to installing (I honestly forgot that I pulled it off before I pulled then engine out). The solution was to remove the passenger side manifold because its super easy to install on the truck. The driver side is worse. You can certainly install them afterwards though. I'm not a fan of crouching over and engine to fiddle with bolts though.

If you have any other questions, I'll do my best to help.

Oh, it was the the iamdb thread that I read. I'm planing to check it out agian in more detail when I get closer to doing this.