Engine Swap to stroked 6.0 (408) and general vehicle refurbishment

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Chooko

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Aaahh reminds me of what I just did to my old H2.
Your stock throttle body is going to be 72mm to 78mm, I forget which. That's not enough for that motor. You will need to upgrade to a 4 bolt 90mm and I'd recommend a ACDelco unit for a Corvette. Your intake might also need to be upgraded to the 4 bolt unless you want to run an adapter. Look at any later model truck intake from a flex fuel truck or find a TBSS intake. You will also more than likely need a XLink to make the new throttle body work with your existing wiring, Texas Speed sells them. Then, to make life even better, you probably have 30 some odd pound injectors which are also too small. Look into getting some truck flex fuel injectors which are 40 to 50 lbs. They will also require an adapter pigtail. Too small of an injector and throttle body will push the injector duty cycle way out of whack and you'll never get it to run right. Nothing against BB for a tune but I think you're into HP Tuners territory to get the most out of your combination. I'd tell you not to waste your time keeping the VVT but sounds like you're set on it. A good stage II low lift cam will do wonders for low end. Look for a TB I6 converter, its a factory stall that should flash a round 2600 rpm in your truck, that's about perfect. I might have missed which heads you're going to run but if you don't have them, I'd suggest finding a set of 243's, they are smaller chambered and will up compression which will again help the low end.

Good luck!
Tim
Tim - man, that is some good information and I really appreciate that it sounds like you have recent experience with this. I think I understand what you are saying, but to clarify, do you mean that I can either run the stock intake with an adapter or run a later model truck manifold with no adapter?

I'm thinking this manifold:

With this throttle body:

With these Injectors:

Does that look like it would work? And which Xlink would I need? They have two on the Texas Speed website, but they are both meant for an '00-'06 vehicle. Is the link below what you are saying I would need?

I am planning to run a CircleD 300mm HP series torque converter.

Lastly, could you please expound on why you think I need HP Tuners instead of BlackBear? AS mentioned, I also have a 2005 GTO that I'd like to be able to tune and there is a lot more out there for using HP Tuner on that car, and I'd like to tune them both with the same system, so I'm interested to know why exactly you think HP Tuner is the way to go?

Joe
 
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Chooko

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Sounds like an awesome build. Good luck! You mention you are thinking about swapping to a 3.42 rearend. Are you going to higher or lower gears? I'm asking because since I do no towing, I'm thinking of replacing my 3.73 with 3.23 for better fuel economy. At 70mph the 3.73 to 3.23 gear swap will reduce rpms from 1861 to 1611; which in theory should improve fuel economy. But I haven't found anyone who has made the change and can tell me how much improvement, if any, to expect. If I can't recoup the cost of the swap in say 3 years, I'll likely leave things alone.
My Tahoe currently has 3.08's in it, so I'd be going to a lower gear. Unfortunately I don't think I'll be able to answer your questions even if I do decide to do it.
 

swathdiver

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Thanks! That's great information. I am attaching a picture of my RPO sticker. Looks like I do have 3.08's. What exactly goes into this 14 bolt swap? I imagine that its bolt in as far as getting the rear end in. Will my factory brakes bolt right up?
Hey, you've got a unique truck there! Did you know that it is an XFE model? If you did not know, they were a lowered and lightened truck that in 2009 delivered 1 MPG more in the city and on the highway. This advantage went away in 2010 with the introduction of VVT on the engines, but yours has all those fuel saving features and might also have a 2010 VVT motor. If you see a connector on your engine's front cover, you have VVT. I considered getting my wife one but after driving a 6.2 that went out the window! What kind of mileage do you get with it?

The Saginaw 14-Bolt is a direct swap, everything bolts up. It can be most easily found in RWD Escalades and Denalis and they all come with 3.42 gears. Some say you need a conversion u-joint and we're waiting for a fella to respond to that query who has done the swap already. @RooTBeeRthe1st Just got his and will be doing the swap soon, with pictures I hope! Mine is buried on my work bench and probably wont' get to it until next winter.
 
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Chooko

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Hey, you've got a unique truck there! Did you know that it is an XFE model? If you did not know, they were a lowered and lightened truck that in 2009 delivered 1 MPG more in the city and on the highway. This advantage went away in 2010 with the introduction of VVT on the engines, but yours has all those fuel saving features and might also have a 2010 VVT motor. If you see a connector on your engine's front cover, you have VVT. I considered getting my wife one but after driving a 6.2 that went out the window! What kind of mileage do you get with it?

The Saginaw 14-Bolt is a direct swap, everything bolts up. It can be most easily found in RWD Escalades and Denalis and they all come with 3.42 gears. Some say you need a conversion u-joint and we're waiting for a fella to respond to that query who has done the swap already. @RooTBeeRthe1st Just got his and will be doing the swap soon, with pictures I hope! Mine is buried on my work bench and probably wont' get to it until next winter.
Wow, I had no idea that XFE was a thing. I always thought it seemed a little lower than other Tahoes that I see driving around, but it has running boards which can create a bit of an illusion, and also I figured maybe the tires were slightly shorter than the stock tire / wheel combination.

Lets talk about VVT for a moment. I was under the impression that ALL 2010 Tahoe 5.3's were VVT, and so I specifically ordered my new engine with a VVT camshaft. Your post implies that I might not have VVT after all? I need to figure it out if that is the case because its probably not too late to change the camshaft before the engine is built. I just went out and looked and it is very difficult to see behind the water pump. I am attaching two pictures, which are not the best, but hopefully some of you Eagle-Eyes can verify that this is a VVT engine? The first picture is an electrical connector on the timing chain cover. Is that for the VVT? The second picture is looking down behind the water pump, and you can just make out what I believe is the upper "hump" of a VVT timing chain cover (where a plate with three screws attaches). If anyone can tell one way or the other, please let me know. In the third picture I have circled the "hump" that I'm talking about in blue, and the connector that I believe is in the first picture in red.

Joe
 

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Chooko

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And so it begins...

I got my first parts for this project in the mail today. My VVT timing chain cover came from Summit. I'm not sure what the promotion was exactly, but I also got a pack of shop rags for free with my order. These will come in nice and handy.

IMG_4196.jpgIMG_4197.jpg

I also received today my timing chain cover alignment tool.
IMG_4199.jpg
Lastly, here are my hoist that I just bought, and also the jack that I converted to a transmission jack. Anyone see any issues with using either of these tools for this project?
IMG_4198.jpgIMG_4200.jpg
 
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THarber

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Joe,

If your truck already has a 4 bolt throttle body, you need not change it but the throttle body will need upgrading to the larger GM. If its a 3 bolt, yes they sell an adapter plate but that also means you have the low flow injectors and to me its not worth it. You want to make sure if you replace the intake that you stay with a truck intake so that the injectors and fuel rails are the same. You can go this route: https://www.glennsautoperformance.com/products/new-tbss-intake-manifold-w-fuel-rails-injectors or find a used intake and injector set up off of a flex fuel truck. I suggest flex fuel injectors because they flow at a higher rate without breaking the bank. The Xlink will depend on throttle body, I used the gold blade version. This is also assuming you are staying with a cathedral port head, if not its a whole new world but I can help with that too.

As for HpTuners vrs BB, again nothing against them but they are a mail in tune. Its going to be hard to log everything you have to log and make adjustments accordingly. Fuel and timing curves will be extremely important. HP tuners was way over my head but luckily I had a friend that dialed my H2 in, it took several sessions but once done it ran like a top.

Your converter is fine but its more like a stock stall speed, the TB I6 converter is just cheaper and will do the same thing for about $200.
 
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Joe,

If your truck already has a 4 bolt throttle body, you need not change it but the throttle body will need upgrading to the larger GM. If its a 3 bolt, yes they sell an adapter plate but that also means you have the low flow injectors and to me its not worth it. You want to make sure if you replace the intake that you stay with a truck intake so that the injectors and fuel rails are the same. You can go this route: https://www.glennsautoperformance.com/products/new-tbss-intake-manifold-w-fuel-rails-injectors or find a used intake and injector set up off of a flex fuel truck. I suggest flex fuel injectors because they flow at a higher rate without breaking the bank. The Xlink will depend on throttle body, I used the gold blade version. This is also assuming you are staying with a cathedral port head, if not its a whole new world but I can help with that too.

As for HpTuners vrs BB, again nothing against them but they are a mail in tune. Its going to be hard to log everything you have to log and make adjustments accordingly. Fuel and timing curves will be extremely important. HP tuners was way over my head but luckily I had a friend that dialed my H2 in, it took several sessions but once done it ran like a top.

Your converter is fine but its more like a stock stall speed, the TB I6 converter is just cheaper and will do the same thing for about $200.
Tim - thanks so much for the continued information. I just went out and looked, and it appears that I have a 4 bolt throttle body and intake, so I'm thinking that I don't need a new intake.

IMG_4207.jpg

I am definitely staying with Cathedral Port heads. I pulled the connector off the throttle body and this is what I saw:
IMG_4208.jpgIMG_4209.jpg
Its hard to see in the picture, but the pins in the throttle body are gold colored. is that what is meant by the gold or silver in the Xlink type? I'm trying to find good pictures of the Corvette TB, and it seems like it also has a 6 pin connector of the same style, although I can't find a great picture.

Any reason I can't just use this?


Thanks again for all your help.

Joe
 
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swathdiver

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Wow, I had no idea that XFE was a thing. I always thought it seemed a little lower than other Tahoes that I see driving around, but it has running boards which can create a bit of an illusion, and also I figured maybe the tires were slightly shorter than the stock tire / wheel combination.

Lets talk about VVT for a moment. I was under the impression that ALL 2010 Tahoe 5.3's were VVT, and so I specifically ordered my new engine with a VVT camshaft. Your post implies that I might not have VVT after all? I need to figure it out if that is the case because its probably not too late to change the camshaft before the engine is built. I just went out and looked and it is very difficult to see behind the water pump. I am attaching two pictures, which are not the best, but hopefully some of you Eagle-Eyes can verify that this is a VVT engine? The first picture is an electrical connector on the timing chain cover. Is that for the VVT? The second picture is looking down behind the water pump, and you can just make out what I believe is the upper "hump" of a VVT timing chain cover (where a plate with three screws attaches). If anyone can tell one way or the other, please let me know. In the third picture I have circled the "hump" that I'm talking about in blue, and the connector that I believe is in the first picture in red.

Joe

Joe, you've confirmed for me that your XFE has VVT. If original, it should have aluminum control arms, the spare wheel should be aluminum, etc. Did that thing get over 21 mpg on the highway?

Your existing LC9 has cathedral port heads (243s) and therefore you can use its intake on the new motor which should also have these heads (799/243).
 

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Oh, it was the the iamdb thread that I read. I'm planing to check it out agian in more detail when I get closer to doing this.

I think you're pretty well on a roll at this point. I can expand on my methods if you need. I did mine 100% by my damned self because I have no friends :sad72:. My neighbor did help me remove the hood and reinstall it three months later, though.

My journey starts here: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/post-1424288
 
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Chooko

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Joe, you've confirmed for me that your XFE has VVT. If original, it should have aluminum control arms, the spare wheel should be aluminum, etc. Did that thing get over 21 mpg on the highway?

Your existing LC9 has cathedral port heads (243s) and therefore you can use its intake on the new motor which should also have these heads (799/243).
Huh, I don't recal anything unusual about the control arms, but that doesn't mean that they weren't aluminum. I probably haven't paid enough attention to know. I'll have a look at them and the spare tomorrow if I get a chance. It did get pretty good mileage, although I couldn't really tell you how much. I just never really paid attention. The heads that are coming on the new engine are aftermarket, but they are Cathedral Port, so I think I'll be good with my old manifold even with the Throttle Body and Injector upgrades that THarber is recommending.
 
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