Exhaust manifold bolts - to remove or not to remove ...

[thefrey]

2013 YXL Denali. Use the clamps until the trans comes out for its 100k major service. The exh comes off when the trans comes out. That’s when you want to do the job.

When the trans is out you also do the motor mounts because with AWD it makes them 100% accessible. Also do the front diff dog bone mounts. I assume you’ve got AWD. Oh yea trans out also means replace the oil press sensor with OEM only because of accessibility.

well I just recently picked up the truck and it has almost 200k so I should hope that the 100k service was done already lmao. I know I need new motor mounts though

 

[thefrey]

incase we haven't explained the clamps. they are a work around.. lucky for use the gaskets used are a good multi layer steel. so they dint usually need changed. the clamp bolts to existing holes in the head, and then had a bolt that pushed in the exhaust manifold sealing it up. taking place of the broken bolt.

on mine it worked perfectly, no exhaust leak and it's basically a permanent fix. if I pull the heads I'll replace all the bolts with studs, but until then. these are fine. they have them for the outer most bolts and they have a different style for the inner bolts. I wanna say mine was 30$?

fhey can be a little hard to reach the rear ones to install. you end up laying across the engine haha. unless you have a top side creeper

Appreciate the info. I have a slight tick which I think is valve train and not exhaust leak with videos in another thread of mine. But just noticed the bolts need some TLC so figured I should address them soon

 

[donjetman]

Three of the 4 corners on our engine have a broken exhaust manifold bolt. In 2018 I installed:

Exhaust Manifold bridge clamp, back driver side – APDTY brand # 028218 - amazon
and
Exhaust manifold bridge clamps, frt driver side & back pass – APDTY brand # 028253 - amazon
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...-cold-berryman-b12.120184/page-2#post-1469315

 

[Joseph Garcia]

well I just recently picked up the truck and it has almost 200k so I should hope that the 100k service was done already lmao. I know I need new motor mounts though

When you do the motor mounts, consider using H3 Hummer motor mounts. They will outlast the OEM motor mounts.

 

[Rocket Man]

Appreciate the info. I have a slight tick which I think is valve train and not exhaust leak with videos in another thread of mine. But just noticed the bolts need some TLC so figured I should address them soon

You’d be surprised how much leaks around those broken bolts can sound like lifter tick. It’s fooled me. I went with the clamps on my 02 and guess what…it wasn’t lifter tick. Quiet now except for the sound of the open headers.

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[petethepug]

Be familiar with the 10SP option when the time comes.

2007-2014 GM SUV - Powertrain Swap Solutions

www.powertrainswapsolutions.com

 

[thefrey]

Be familiar with the 10SP option when the time comes.

2007-2014 GM SUV - Powertrain Swap Solutions

www.powertrainswapsolutions.com

oh how I love innovation

 

[thefrey]

You’d be surprised how much leaks around those broken bolts can sound like lifter tick. It’s fooled me. I went with the clamps on my 02 and guess what…it wasn’t lifter tick. Quiet now except for the sound of the open headers.

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Hm interesting. Did you also hear the tick when warm? I’m hearing it when cold and warm

 

[Charlie207]

Hm interesting. Did you also hear the tick when warm? I’m hearing it when cold and warm

Mine was so bad. I had broken manifold bolts on the rear on both sides. I bought the Dorman clamps and it they did help a lot, but not 100%, because my manifold gaskets were also very worn out. But, they were a good stop-gap until I pulled the engine out.

I still have the two clamps, and you can have them for the cost of shipping and a beer.


When I installed the manifolds on my 6.0 I went with stainless manifold studs & nuts instead of bolts.