Factory amp and aftermarket sub

[Jeff53]

OK, for anyone who's removed the factory amp before, how did you get the smaller of the two plugs out? I'd like to find the engineer who oriented that type of connector facing away from the inside of the car. I've tried multiple things to push on the tab (this is all blind, because I can't see the other side) and release the connector with no success. I've tried using my finger to push it in, but apparently can't exert enough force to clear it and push up on it at the same time. I'm close to just prying the entire plug out of the amp, since I think it's bad anyway and then remove that harness when I can have better access to it. It's the top connector in the picture (stolen from the Internet)

 

[Jeff53]

Well, through trial and error, I seem to have answered my own question, in a way. I replaced the rear speakers today, which seemed to be the problem with the amp, but in reality was the deteriorated speakers. So, anyway, I have the bypass completed on the amp and all of the speakers are working, including the D pillar and sub. Now I just need to replace the fronts. I do have a minor problem that someone may be able to answer. Since I undid the clip at the top of the amp so I could maneuver it out of the way to plug in the bypass connector, I now can't get it clipped back in. Is there a trick to it or am I just not exerting enough force to get it clipped back in. I can feel where I think it's supposed to clip into the amp, but I can't quite get it to that point.

 

[Scott in AZ]

my recommendation is 2 amps
1 amp for your door speakers, 1 for the sub/s
the factory amp is not going to put out much and will sound terrible if the new speakers do not match the impedance of the originals
a $20 junk china amp will sound better than the stock sub amp
I am not saying buy a $20 amp I am saying buy a couple $400-500 brand name amp's and be happy there are tons of them out there and will provide plenty of power for the average person.
if you are poor like me just buy one thing at a time

I was undecided but after driving/listening I decided that the OEM amp is adequate or maybe a little better than that for all 6 speakers except the subwoofer in my 2001 Yukon. I’m using a Sony 2X20W double-DIN head unit with all new more efficient speakers and volume / clarity is fine. The low/freq bass is thin though … might as well take advantage of the new sub’s capability.

The OEM amp under the glove box is installed well, runs cool. And it’s already wired up to all the door speakers. It’s tempting to get a second amp but the speaker wiring to the doors and rear pillars is a lot of work.

However I’m also adding a Crutchfield store brand (Sound Ordnance) small footprint 1X300W fan cooled amp for the Polk Audio 8” subwoofer. I’m installing the amp vertically on L-Brackets between the cup holder and the console box in the center console. I ran the super-clean low-level signal in to the amp on RCA patch cables, and the amplified signal out on 14-gage wire down the driver’s side floorboard trim mounting rail. I might try grounding the amp to the metal console box mounting frame, but will need to grind some paint and test the resistance. Can’t find a really good place to ground it. Maybe under the seat, on one of the big seat mount bolts?

 

[Doubeleive]

I was undecided but after driving/listening I decided that the OEM amp is adequate or maybe a little better than that for all 6 speakers except the subwoofer in my 2001 Yukon. I’m using a Sony 2X20W double-DIN head unit with all new more efficient speakers and volume / clarity is fine. The low/freq bass is thin though … might as well take advantage of the new sub’s capability.

The OEM amp under the glove box is installed well, runs cool. And it’s already wired up to all the door speakers. It’s tempting to get a second amp but the speaker wiring to the doors and rear pillars is a lot of work.

However I’m also adding a Crutchfield store brand (Sound Ordnance) small footprint 1X300W fan cooled amp for the Polk Audio 8” subwoofer. I’m installing the amp vertically on L-Brackets between the cup holder and the console box in the center console. I ran the super-clean low-level signal in to the amp on RCA patch cables, and the amplified signal out on 14-gage wire down the driver’s side floorboard trim mounting rail. I might try grounding the amp to the metal console box mounting frame, but will need to grind some paint and test the resistance. Can’t find a really good place to ground it. Maybe under the seat, on one of the big seat mount bolts?

seat mounting bolt/post is a good grounding spot
as for running a amp for door speakers it is only necessary to run wires from the amp to the factory vehicle harness (in dash area) that splits to all the speakers the factory wire is good for about 200w (per speaker) so unless you are trying to go get a trophy the factory wiring is fine, you do not need to run new wires to all the speakers.