Factory remote start, alarm goes off in winter?

[dbbd1]

^ Sounds about right to me. Could also be a defective new battery. But, I think you mean it dropped below 9 Volts.

Might even need more oomph if you tow...

 

[James 2018 Yukon]

Your are correct...meant to say volts. My bad.

 

[Baksdak]

Your are correct...meant to say volts. My bad.

Were you able to get everything sorted out? I am having the same alarm issues exactly as you describe and have not replaced the battery yet. When below 20 degrees it does crank slower but all else is fine.

 

[James 2018 Yukon]

In the end I just traded it in on a new 2018 Denali . I did have the battery replaced for free by the dealer but had to take the same delco battery. As soon as the cold came back so did the alarm issue. I tested the battery during start up and it dropped to 9 volts which is a little lower than it should be.

I have learned ( as I understand it ) that when the keys are not in the car, if the amps drop the alarm assumes the battery is being disconnected and sounds the alarm.

My belief is that a 900 cold cranking amp battery would solve it. The stock battery is around 700 which is too low for all of the electronics in these yukons ( heated seats and other items start automatically if programmed)

I do know my dealer indicated they have had major issues with customers with 2017 cars and failed /dead batteries during this extreme cold snap. They had to have the GM rep in as they replaced so many Delco batteries and its under investigation.


Best thing to do is use a voltmeter and test your battery during startup on a cold morning. My old battery dropped to 8 volts and the new one dropped to 9 and they should be over 10 and close to 12. Most garages can do a load test on it as well.

I think the issue may have always existed but this is the first time for us in years that we have dropped to these extreme temps in many years.

Interestingly my daughter owns a 2003 Aztek and when the battery died I put a 800 cold cranking amp battery in it and it never hesitates on starting. It's oversized but has been rock solid for over 4 years so far.

I hope this helps.

 

[PG01]

Fyi, when my stock battery dies, i buy the biggest cca battery in the group that fits my vehicle, and normally hook up a dual battery setup. Batteries hate the cold but i hate not being able to start my vehicle because of a dead battery more. That being said ive had stockers last anywhere from1.5 yrs to 8-10yrs. It happens.

 

[dkman610]

I have the same issue with my 2015 Denail with 59k miles. The past month or more it's been frigid and if/when I use my remote start, and it cuts out 10 minutes later or whatever the time is the alarm goes off. I too want to trade in on the new 2018 with the 10 speed transmission but don't want/need issues with this one so that the dealer tries to low ball me even further on my trade in value.
I'll look at replacing the battery and hope that's all mine is, but I want to keep hearing other things to look for/solutions possible out there. Thanks!

 

[300WeatherbyMag]

I have a 2016 Yukon Denali with the same issue. My truck has the UTT (Enhanced Security Package). I also noticed the issue started in cold weather. I have owned it for a few months (bought it with 28k miles from a dealer), and it's always been cold.

Symptom:
When using the factory remote start, the car alarm goes off after the remote start times out (10 minutes) or is interrupted with the key fob.

I can reproduce the issue as follows:
- Perform a remote start (lock button, then remote start button for ~2-4 seconds)
- Cancel the remote start (remote start button); or wait 10 minutes for the remote start to time out
- Wait ~10 seconds - alarm goes off (siren, horns and lights)

I found this online, which got me to start troubleshooting:
https://gm.oemdtc.com/1944/unwanted-content-theft-alarm-sounds-2015-cadillac-chevrolet-gmc

Notes:
- My OEM battery load tested fine; voltage drop at start was fine
- I replaced my battery anyway (I don't trust a previous owners battery). Put in an AutoCraft Platinum H7-AGM 850CCA. Aside: what a PITA to replace our battery...not hard, but just ridiculous that we have to move so many things out of the way. This is a GMC truck, not a BMW. Problem persisted.
- I had the dealer install the android auto update to my truck when I bought it
- I mounted snow tires on the OEM rims
- When I purchased the truck, I had the dealer remove some tint that was on all the windows (against my gut feeling that I should pay for a pro tint shop to do it). They damaged the glass break sensor in the driver side rear quarter panel. I am currently investigating this as the possible source of my issue. It's a small, defogger looking line on the bottom corner of the window. The passenger side rear quarter window has one too (along with the vehicle antenna which is prominent all over the top of the window). The passenger side sensor reads 1.6 ohms of resistance. My driver's side (which was damaged by a plastic tool) has a break. I tried shorting the connector (looks like a 9v battery plug) to this sensor, and the problem persisted. I am next going to try feeding 1.6 ohms of resistance to that line to see what happens (hopefully fooling the glass break sensor). I'm handy, but by no means a professional at this stuff, so I'm just exploring here. I will report back what I find. If it's not the sensor, I suspect maybe a BCM issue?

 

[dkman610]

I have a 2016 Yukon Denali with the same issue. My truck has the UTT (Enhanced Security Package). I also noticed the issue started in cold weather. I have owned it for a few months (bought it with 28k miles from a dealer), and it's always been cold.

Symptom:
When using the factory remote start, the car alarm goes off after the remote start times out (10 minutes) or is interrupted with the key fob.

I can reproduce the issue as follows:
- Perform a remote start (lock button, then remote start button for ~2-4 seconds)
- Cancel the remote start (remote start button); or wait 10 minutes for the remote start to time out
- Wait ~10 seconds - alarm goes off (siren, horns and lights)

I found this online, which got me to start troubleshooting:
https://gm.oemdtc.com/1944/unwanted-content-theft-alarm-sounds-2015-cadillac-chevrolet-gmc

Notes:
- My OEM battery load tested fine; voltage drop at start was fine
- I replaced my battery anyway (I don't trust a previous owners battery). Put in an AutoCraft Platinum H7-AGM 850CCA. Aside: what a PITA to replace our battery...not hard, but just ridiculous that we have to move so many things out of the way. This is a GMC truck, not a BMW. Problem persisted.
- I had the dealer install the android auto update to my truck when I bought it
- I mounted snow tires on the OEM rims
- When I purchased the truck, I had the dealer remove some tint that was on all the windows (against my gut feeling that I should pay for a pro tint shop to do it). They damaged the glass break sensor in the driver side rear quarter panel. I am currently investigating this as the possible source of my issue. It's a small, defogger looking line on the bottom corner of the window. The passenger side rear quarter window has one too (along with the vehicle antenna which is prominent all over the top of the window). The passenger side sensor reads 1.6 ohms of resistance. My driver's side (which was damaged by a plastic tool) has a break. I tried shorting the connector (looks like a 9v battery plug) to this sensor, and the problem persisted. I am next going to try feeding 1.6 ohms of resistance to that line to see what happens (hopefully fooling the glass break sensor). I'm handy, but by no means a professional at this stuff, so I'm just exploring here. I will report back what I find. If it's not the sensor, I suspect maybe a BCM issue?

Holy smokes still far more advanced than the normal vehicle operator!! Lol! Thanks I'll stay subscribed to get your results.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

 

[300WeatherbyMag]

Update: I used a resistor to bypass my glass break sensor...still have the problem. I'm not surprised, as I don't imagine everyone's glass break sensor was damaged like mine.

I'm thinking this is a software issue, or possibly a problem with the BCM. I may try to remove my BCM and see if there are any obvious problems with the soldering.

 

[dkman610]

I realized that my rear window defogger cable came off the glass recently so I'm going to repair that and see if it doesn't resolve my issue, I can't remember the timing of it but my issue started I believe around the time the cable came off the glass. Will keep updated. Thanks for that post 300WeatherbyMag!