Failed Emissions 3x - What else can I try?

[Done Deal DR]

test it, get multi meter, put it on ohms setting, hook multi eter black to ground on vehical, and red to o2 wire.. Fire up engine. see if it changes ohms..

That will tell you if it "Works" but not if its in tolerances... that sensor is dirt cheap just replace it..
BESHURE to put a TINY amount of NICKLE anti seize on the TOP threads,, aka closest to sensor main body, NOT near tip!

As it gets hot it gets runny and will spread. IF it gets into that coverd area aka tip it RUINS it..

But this will keep that POS from rusting in.

Yeah I will just replace it. By the time you go through the trouble of removing it you might as well replace it. You're talking about the same anti-seize used on spark plugs correct? If so I've got it ready. Not looking forward to wrenching that ***** off at all though. I know from past experience how bad those can get jammed in there, especially if the precautions you just posted weren't used.

 

[ezdaar]

just for referene incase some guys dont know..
Nickle anti sieze is silver, aka the lil packets you get when doing sparkplugs.. Which work perfect for doing exhaust mani, Ypipe collector and O2sensor threads..
Its got a higher melting point than the Copper, gold colored anti sieze..

Use right stuff in corect place or it simply melts off and doesnt work.

You can use nickle everywhere, copper only on cold items.

 

[Done Deal DR]

Crap, I've been using copper for spark plugs. I'd consider that a hot item.

Yes/No?

 

[ezdaar]

uh yea... That might be why they feel like they are sticky when unthreading them..
copper melts, gums up and gauls up in the threads. making that sticky feeling on the wrench..

thats also why you use that nasty sticky silicone on the boots, keeps them from melting to the ceramic part of the plug..


Anti sieze is NON dielectric, which means it does not conduct electricity well, so dont be retard and put it on plug tip befor sliding boot on.. thnking the clip wont try and perma attach itself requiring frikin hulk strength and channel lock pliers to pull them loose.

Use a high temp Dielectric greese sutch as the stuff used to insulate ATV electrical plugs from water...
All decent auto shops sells tubes of it.. just smear a tiny bit to "skin" the tip then smear some silicone on ceramic and slide boot on..

Next time you do plugs, you will pullem off by hand sooo easy... and wonder "why have I never done this before?"

 

[Done Deal DR]

Thanks for all the good info Doug. You've been a big help.



I've traced the lines to/from the evap canister and don't see any issues there. There doesn't appear to be any leaks coming from the canister. I've heard there is a filter within the evap canister that in some cases needs to be replaced, but I'm not sure how that canister even opens much less if it needs to be done. Seems unlikely.

Any other ideas other than o2 sensor and temp sensor?

 

[ezdaar]

No idea off top of head, its been years since iI fiddled with OBD1. Tho I'm shure more will come flooding back in my head tonight when I try and go to sleep.

As far as the filter on purge canister, its not replaceable... you gotta replace entire unit..

Its infact just 2 filters.. One big ass charcoal filter (the main body) and a small vent filter at top..

Most that badboy does is clog up and cause the gas pump to constantly stop filling your gas tank when refueling..
Ive never had a problem with emmisions related to that item, BUT that doesnt mean your not..
the only purpose for that can is to vent gas fumes from fuel tank into motor to be burned instead of vented to atmosphere. its a BIG MPG thing, NEVER remove it.

I pulled mine off my old hotrod S10 way back and noticed a 5mpg change, it took me about 2 months to realize the mistake and put it back on.

Not to lead ya away from this Awesome forum. But you might find ALOT more info
here http://blazerforum.com/forum/

If I remember any more stuff for ya tonight. i will post it up for ya..
OBD1 vehical was my bread n butter $$$ back in the day...

After you get this lined up. I can show ya how to make cheap ass Catch can and stop all that nasty blowby from getting into intake and increase MPG alil...

BTW have you ever popped that TBI off and cleaned it?
do you want to buy a Holley TBI unit?? I think i still have one or 2 laying around..
Next time you go to auto store.
Buy 2 of these, or even better 3 and longer bolts.

Kit is http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...njector-Throttlebody-Gsk-Pack/_/N-j20wxZ8vdbe

You want the triangle gasket that oes inbetween the Injector tower and TB base plate..
you can buy them seperate and save alot of more vs that prepackaged crap.
It raises the tower up out of the throtlle bores allowing substantial more flow. and insulating the Injector tower from engine heat. "cool fuel = happy dense fuel = more power".
If you get friskyy and run 3 gaskets, cut that damn piece of aluminum that wraps around the back of the baseplate off with a hacksaw, its the this aluminum just above the fuel lines. Or it will be in your way EVERYtime you try and thread the fuel lines back on.
The base plate gaskets, I ran 4 of them. only thing your trying to acomplish is stop the heat transfer, no need for BS aluminum spacers..

If you know a machinest, take that baseplate to him and have him mill off the stupid horns at the topof the throttle bores, you will know exactly what i mean when you look at it.. make that baseplate nice and flat. then polish up those bores with some 400 grit wet dry paper.. mirror fisinsh and you get wetting where the fuel sticks to the walls and runs dwn then like water on a water slide.. thata a nono! you want semi rough surface for the fuel to vaporize off of.
Its cheap MPG and a few more HP.


tip for ya if you ever get into playing with that engine more...

CUT those Damn fuel lines behind the TB! OMG I cant stand the way chevy designed them, its a bloody nightmare to thread them onto the injector tower when its a hard line.

cut them on diver side of TB staggerd above valve cover and run some good quality alcohol freindly hose back and around to the injector tower.. Take the oppertunity to install a inline fuel pressure guage at same time...
What you want to do is cut the end of the hard line so you leave a 4" long peice with the flared end and nut on it..
So you run that hard line into a flexible line. its SOOOO mutch easier to reinstall that TB this way.. makes a hard to flexible to hard line..
you can also open up the tower and put in a thin washer above the regulator spring, increasing its preload and upping fuel pressure by 5psi.. alil more fuel to comp for the lil more air you gained by the baseplate and tower gaskets..

You will Feel the change...

o man.. Told ya, all the old tricks are coming back....

 

[Done Deal DR]

I'm going to say this now (infamously before I actually start towing with this thing), that there seems to be plenty of power for my use. The max I will ever tow with this will be 2 PWC's + trailer, which should be no more than 2,500 lbs max. I have other go fast cars, most notably my Z, and have had much faster in the past - I guess I'm just at the point where I'd rather not get tickets and ding my otherwise great insurance rates. That, and I pretty much LOL when people try to make a lifted truck fast (not trying to ding anybody, it's just not a great platform to make truly fast, straight line and definitely not corners). Modern trucks are much better platforms for going fast in a straight line, notably the Chevy 2500HD single wheel with duramax that runs 16's stock, pretty quick, but still not actually "fast", I'm sure you catch my drift.

Now... once I start towing, I may definitely change my tune quiet a bit. By that time though, if I still have this, I'll probably drop an LS series in it with, what is it, a 6L90? I'd say braking is a larger concern for me right now, with 33's and probably soon to be 35's, I already pitched this thing sideways into an intersection on a late red. That made the ol' "oh shit" face for sure.

I REALLY like the 2 door Blazer/Tahoe body style though, which is why I bought it in the first place. If GM made a modern version full size that wasn't obvious crap, I'd buy it in a heartbeat. I'm a sucker for 2 doors through and through, probably 80% I've ever bought have been 2 doors.

Thanks for the knowledge drop Doug. This forum is pretty slow from what I'm used to, but guys like you make it worth the effort.

 

[AtomicHoe094]

Kinda blew through this thread really quick. But have you changed your PCV valve at all? Does your truck burn any oil that you know of?

 

[SunlitComet]

Anti sieze is NON dielectric, which means it does not conduct electricity well,

I think you have that backwards

---------- Post added at 08:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:28 PM ----------

Now it makes sense. I thought carbon monoxide is what you were trying to say because I know of no state failing vehicles on carbon dioxide.

At any rate those levels you provided are the signs of incomplete combustion usually as a result of a rich mixture like a tune up not working right.

 

[Done Deal DR]

Update on my emissions problems. You guys were right on the money, replaced the O2 sensor and that got it down to 16 grams/mile.

PASSED

It's likely though that I would have had to have done most if not all of what I did anyways though, as everything else I did cut it in half. Truck is running strong and feels good. Time to start looking into paint jobs, but for now I'm happy just to have it done and legal.