Feels likes wheels are going to come off

[Rocket Man]

I have only two ideas of what the problem is, and I do suppose it could be the wheel bearings, but I'm thinking that's not the cause. Rather, I believe it's the carrier bearing in the front diff, or that the air ride compressor is not working. For the air ride, the fuses appear to be good, the relay is good, I removed the relay and jumped 30 and 87 to send power to the compressor, and I heard it, so the compressor is good. Running out of ideas on the air ride issue, I suppose a bad module maybe?? Also, there are NO service lights on and no codes. The compressor is brand new, replacing one that ran until it burnt up, the shocks are also brand new.

It’s possible your exhaust solenoid on the compressor isn’t working. If it can’t exhaust then it won’t turn on the compressor. You can disconnect one of the air lines at a shock and let the air out. If there’s no air then the exhaust solenoid isn’t your problem. But if there is pressure and you let the air out, start the truck afterwards and watch/ listen for the compressor to turn on and bring the rear up a bit. If it works like that then your solenoid is bad or not being commanded on. The Tech2 is the tool you really need to troubleshoot the autoride system.

You never mentioned the brand of compressor or shocks you bought but if you went the cheapest route with these then they might not be working right. But I drove my 02 Denali for months with blown air bladders on my rear shocks without knowing it, and it never felt like what you’re describing. It just bottomed out occasionally.

 

[Shtiv]

Thank you! I’ll do what you said. The compressor is Dormant 949-099 compressor, got cheap shocks in the back (Arnotts in front). Might spend the money and swap the cheap ones in back with Arnotts.

 

[Rocket Man]

Thank you! I’ll do what you said. The compressor is Dormant 949-099 compressor, got cheap shocks in the back (Arnotts in front). Might spend the money and swap the cheap ones in back with Arnotts.

Members here have been running the Dorman compressors for years with no issues. I’m not familiar with it though so maybe others here can tell us if the exhaust valve is an issue with the compressor or if it’s separate. I used Arnotts compressor and don’t remember, I just know there have been issues with the exhaust valves. But try that test before looking further.

 

[Shtiv]

Lead mechanic, went deep into the vehicle suspension. Found nothing, says everything looks great. Of course he was unable to feel what i feel while driving. So confused by it all.

 

[Shtiv]

It’s possible your exhaust solenoid on the compressor isn’t working. If it can’t exhaust then it won’t turn on the compressor. You can disconnect one of the air lines at a shock and let the air out. If there’s no air then the exhaust solenoid isn’t your problem. But if there is pressure and you let the air out, start the truck afterwards and watch/ listen for the compressor to turn on and bring the rear up a bit. If it works like that then your solenoid is bad or not being commanded on. The Tech2 is the tool you really need to troubleshoot the autoride system.

You never mentioned the brand of compressor or shocks you bought but if you went the cheapest route with these then they might not be working right. But I drove my 02 Denali for months with blown air bladders on my rear shocks without knowing it, and it never felt like what you’re describing. It just bottomed out occasionally.

There was air on both, a bigger blast of air when i i disconnected line of driver side. Turned vehicle on and still no compressor.

 

[Rocket Man]

There was air on both, a bigger blast of air when i i disconnected line of driver side. Turned vehicle on and still no compressor.

They’re plumbed together with a y- fitting in the air lines. It makes no sense that all the air didn’t release when you disconnected the first side. Sounds like you need a bi-directional scanner like a Tech2 so you can check things and command the compressor on and off. Have you checked all the under hood fuses? Iirc there’s 2 that are for the autoride. You could take it to a shop and have them diagnose it and then fix it yourself. A Tech2 can be had for around $300 and they’re invaluable in working on these vehicles. It would pay for itself in no time.

 

[Shtiv]

They’re plumbed together with a y- fitting in the air lines. It makes no sense that all the air didn’t release when you disconnected the first side. Sounds like you need a bi-directional scanner like a Tech2 so you can check things and command the compressor on and off. Have you checked all the under hood fuses? Iirc there’s 2 that are for the autoride. You could take it to a shop and have them diagnose it and then fix it yourself. A Tech2 can be had for around $300 and they’re invaluable in working on these vehicles. It would pay for itself in no time.

I’ll check the fuses again, but looked good, so did the relay. I’ll have to find a tech2 in the area (north of Seattle).

 

[exp500]

Try either of theese:https://www.chinacardiags.com/whole...el-suzuki-isuzu-holden-with-full-package.html
https://www.chinacardiags.com/wholesale/xdiag-vcx-nano-for-gm-opel-gds2-diagnostic-tool-17409.html
The nano requires laptop and a bit of skills to install.

 

[Shtiv]

Try either of theese:https://www.chinacardiags.com/whole...el-suzuki-isuzu-holden-with-full-package.html
https://www.chinacardiags.com/wholesale/xdiag-vcx-nano-for-gm-opel-gds2-diagnostic-tool-17409.html
The nano requires laptop and a bit of skills to install.

$115 and comes with software. I may order that. Anything else needed or is everything included that i need for the $115?

 

[exp500]

Yes everything. You can switch to online programming of modules via GM's site for about $80. There are 2 versions of nano, next upgrade is wireless modem in nano, about $15 more. Depends if you have wireless close. Chinacar has been good for me.
https://www.chinacardiags.com/whole...-gds2-diagnostic-tool-wifi-version-17410.html