Finally Jumped on the Oil Catch Can Bandwagon

[Jason in DLH]

while using all my mental power in trying to understand all of this (and reading another thread) I just realized I’ve been listening to the same song on repeat for the past half hour.

 

[wsteele]

while using all my mental power in trying to understand all of this (and reading another thread) I just realized I’ve been listening to the same song on repeat for the past half hour.

Sorry if I muddled the picture as far as how these engines get to start flowing oil out the PCV.

I have always tried to understand what role the AFM PR Valve played in how my rings got stuck, and I think I probably will never know with any certainty.

When I reflect on the input from @iamdub and @donjetman and their experiences, along with my own experience with my stuck rings, a few things seem to rise to the top.

The best thing anyone with a pre 2012 version of one of these trucks can do is assure they have the proper updated drivers side valve cover for their model year (the TSB says they are different for 2007-2008 and 2009-2010 and looking at Rock Auto they do indeed list two different valve covers for those model years).

The next best thing then is to install a catch can so you can know exactly how much oil your engine is trying to put back into the intake.

It is hard to let thinking about that Pressure Relief Valve go, but I think I have to, as it just is going to bug me for no good purpose.

 

[gooffeyguy]

A blatant derp moment from the General.

Surprised it took GM that long in this generation to realize this. Valve covers have had baffeld pcv/oil fill ports since forever to keep the spray from the pushrods/rockers out

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Jason in DLH]

Sorry if I muddled the picture as far as how these engines get to start flowing oil out the PCV.

I have always tried to understand what role the AFM PR Valve played in how my rings got stuck, and I think I probably will never know with any certainty.

When I reflect on the input from @iamdub and @donjetman and their experiences, along with my own experience with my stuck rings, a few things seem to rise to the top.

The best thing anyone with a pre 2012 version of one of these trucks can do is assure they have the proper updated drivers side valve cover for their model year (the TSB says they are different for 2007-2008 and 2009-2010 and looking at Rock Auto they do indeed list two different valve covers for those model years).

The next best thing then is to install a catch can so you can know exactly how much oil your engine is trying to put back into the intake.

It is hard to let thinking about that Pressure Relief Valve go, but I think I have to, as it just is going to bug me for no good purpose.

It’s all making more sense now that I got some sleep.

Your right about the different P/N’s for the different years...



2007 - 2008: 12570427
2009 - 2011: 12642655

 

[Sparksalot]

There’s been mention of baffling above. How much baffle, steel wool, whatever, is needed?

 

[Caligirl]

Sorry if I muddled the picture as far as how these engines get to start flowing oil out the PCV.

I have always tried to understand what role the AFM PR Valve played in how my rings got stuck, and I think I probably will never know with any certainty.

When I reflect on the input from @iamdub and @donjetman and their experiences, along with my own experience with my stuck rings, a few things seem to rise to the top.

The best thing anyone with a pre 2012 version of one of these trucks can do is assure they have the proper updated drivers side valve cover for their model year (the TSB says they are different for 2007-2008 and 2009-2010 and looking at Rock Auto they do indeed list two different valve covers for those model years).

The next best thing then is to install a catch can so you can know exactly how much oil your engine is trying to put back into the intake.

It is hard to let thinking about that Pressure Relief Valve go, but I think I have to, as it just is going to bug me for no good purpose.

So based on this thread, if I understand it correctly, since I don't know if my Tahoe has the new valve cover, putting in the catch can MAY help me alleviate some of the damage if it's the old one and/or determine if it is (besides taking it off to look-wish they put something on the new ones that is identifiable without taking it apart).

Or do folks who have done the AFM delete/new valve cover STILL get oil/gunk in the can and I won't know from a catch can's contents?

Wish I had more experience with actual work under the hood- I'd take it apart just to look (and replace if needed) even though I'm not showing any signs now at 88k.

Drives my husband nuts thinking I'm borrowing trouble for tomorrow and I prefer to think of it as "prevention-minded" or "forward-thinking". Besides, you'd think the idea that I could tell him "I told you so" if we ever had issues would be enough incentive for him to do it for me now haha

I'm with you and if I ever had issues, it will drive me nuts with the wanting to know if ABC caused XYZ.

 

[Jason in DLH]

There’s been mention of baffling above. How much baffle, steel wool, whatever, is needed?

I believe most cans use filters in them that will work. I did check my JLT and it does have a filter on the outlet side which appears to be working well with the amount of crud I caught during only a 20 minute drive.

Here’s a great video about the different types catch cans (with data showing they actually work)...

 

[Jason in DLH]

So based on this thread, if I understand it correctly, since I don't know if my Tahoe has the new valve cover, putting in the catch can MAY help me alleviate some of the damage if it's the old one and/or determine if it is (besides taking it off to look-wish they put something on the new ones that is identifiable without taking it apart).

Or do folks who have done the AFM delete/new valve cover STILL get oil/gunk in the can and I won't know from a catch can's contents?

Wish I had more experience with actual work under the hood- I'd take it apart just to look (and replace if needed) even though I'm not showing any signs now at 88k.

Drives my husband nuts thinking I'm borrowing trouble for tomorrow and I prefer to think of it as "prevention-minded" or "forward-thinking". Besides, you'd think the idea that I could tell him "I told you so" if we ever had issues would be enough incentive for him to do it for me now haha

I'm with you and if I ever had issues, it will drive me nuts with the wanting to know if ABC caused XYZ.

After doing lots of recent research on this catch can business, I’ll be installing one in all vehicles I own from now on. It’s a great preventative maintenance device and piece of mind that oil isn’t being reintroduced into the intake manifold. In my opinion.

 

[wsteele]

So based on this thread, if I understand it correctly, since I don't know if my Tahoe has the new valve cover, putting in the catch can MAY help me alleviate some of the damage if it's the old one and/or determine if it is (besides taking it off to look-wish they put something on the new ones that is identifiable without taking it apart).

Or do folks who have done the AFM delete/new valve cover STILL get oil/gunk in the can and I won't know from a catch can's contents?

Wish I had more experience with actual work under the hood- I'd take it apart just to look (and replace if needed) even though I'm not showing any signs now at 88k.

Drives my husband nuts thinking I'm borrowing trouble for tomorrow and I prefer to think of it as "prevention-minded" or "forward-thinking". Besides, you'd think the idea that I could tell him "I told you so" if we ever had issues would be enough incentive for him to do it for me now haha

I'm with you and if I ever had issues, it will drive me nuts with the wanting to know if ABC caused XYZ.

I don't think there is a way to tell which valve cover you have unless you pull it off and look at the underside of the casting.

If I recall from a previous thread, you may have posted that your engine is not using any oil at all between changes (I could have that completely wrong and thinking about somebody else). If that is the case, the urgency on any of this stuff definitely gets into the "preventive" mode, versus "fixing" mode.

My belief now is a catch can is a great device for insight into what is going on inside. On an engine that uses oil, it will tell you if you are pumping it out the PCV and back into the intake, which in measurable quantities is not good for anything. If you see large quantities, you know you need to at least get that valve cover pulled and check to see what part number you have.

 

[wsteele]

There’s been mention of baffling above. How much baffle, steel wool, whatever, is needed?

I think the premium catch can makers would tell you the optimum air/oil separator is made of unobtanium, with superconductor cooling towers to eliminate restrictions and maximize oil and contaminant separation. Someone else might tell you (kind of like a member recently quipped), all you need is a beer can stuffed with steel wool, or some such levity.

I went the semi premium route partly because they have a reputation and with YouTube any number of tuners/racers who will call them out if their claims are suspect. I personally think someone with your handiness level could experiment on their own and get to the optimum answer pretty quickly.

In the end, at the rpm levels (at least some of us ) are running at, you are going to catch a bunch of the crud getting pumped out by condensation as it passes through the hose and trickles into the can on the input fitting. Anything you do above that has got to help, maybe until you get to the point where you are restricting airflow. As I understand it, that is the value add of the premium vendors pitch.