Yessir! Just make sure that you have a catch pan in place at the junction you're removing. After new hose is in place, make sure that fluid is coming out new hose before connecting to brake caliper... After connecting to brake, make sure fluid is draining out of the brake drain port.
Flush your brake fluid!!
- Thread starter swat2380
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It's perfect for replacing those hoses. Replace all the hoses then bleed the system. Just keep an eye on the fluid in the mc while replacing hoses so you don't let it get empty and draw air in.
StopTech hoses have DOT label on them. Don't be nervous about a brake flush or replacing hoses. The fluid does not gush out just a steady drip and as mentioned previously keep your master cylinder reservoir full and you won't have any problems. I haven't driven the Denali yet after replacing everything have a couple other things I am doing.
from what I've read the proper way to flush it requires a Tech II to cycle the ABS pump, otherwise it'll still have old fluid in it. Is this accurate? If so does anyone have a Tech II? Maybe set up a loaner program, where we put down a deposit to the Tech II owner, and pay a rental fee (and shipping costs), then once returned the user would get the deposit back?
I was thinking about getting a Tech II from alibaba or one of those types of sites, I just don't want to get a bogus piece of equipment and F*** up my truck
I was thinking about getting a Tech II from alibaba or one of those types of sites, I just don't want to get a bogus piece of equipment and F*** up my truck
There are threads here and on other boards for other vehicles on the Tech II units. I've not read a post about one messing up the vehicle. Some about the units themselves not working, though. That said, those people wouldn't be in business long if they don't at least get you a working unit. Places like alibaba have dispute resolution through the site, if needed. You may have issues getting any type of support down the road, but you should be able to get a working unit at the beginning.
You can likely get everything you need for under $300. Assuming you already have an old laptop with a serial port that you can use for the programming side, as necessary (doesn't happen very often).
Alternatively, you may want to check into the MDI units. They will support the newer model years that the Tech II doesn't as well as being backwards compatible. I have no experience with those, sorry I can't help further. If I was looking for a unit now, I would at least consider an MDI.
Good luck.
You can likely get everything you need for under $300. Assuming you already have an old laptop with a serial port that you can use for the programming side, as necessary (doesn't happen very often).
Alternatively, you may want to check into the MDI units. They will support the newer model years that the Tech II doesn't as well as being backwards compatible. I have no experience with those, sorry I can't help further. If I was looking for a unit now, I would at least consider an MDI.
Good luck.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Bleed them as you would normally. Right when you start to press the brake pedal, turn the key to ON (not START) while you continue your pedal stroke. You should be pressing the pedal slowly- about 2-3 seconds form start to stop. Hold the pedal when you get to the bottom, turn the key OFF, pump once more, then do they key ON pump cycle again. Do this 4 or 5 times. When you first turn the key ON, all the systems do a self-check and the ABS solenoids are activated during this self-check. They're not constantly held open like the TechII or MDI would do, but firing them while you're pumping the fluid through the system a few times should be plenty to move the old fluid and any trapped air out of the ABS solenoid block and down the line towards the calipers. I've done this countless times on various makes and models of vehicles I've bled the brakes on and have always had a firm pedal afterwards. NOTE: Lay a 2x4 under the brake pedal to keep the pedal from bottoming out. You can tear the seals in the master cylinder by stroking it beyond it's normal range of travel.
I'm not against owning a TechII or equivalent. But, for a simple brake/bleed job, you can achieve the same results with a piece of 2x4 and a few extra turns of the key.
Thanks for the additional info!
Gentlemen, I want to thank you all for the information. I finally did the work on my truck today, and it was PERFECT. Well, it ended perfect. I did let the Motiv pump run out of fluid once and sent air through the entire driver side rear brake line. but, I filled it up, did it again, and when done, it was perfect. It took me all day, primarily because I decided that if I was going to do all this work, I might as well do brake pads / rotors as well, so I ran up to Summit Racing (Arlington, TX) and bought this kit:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwr-k2068-36/overview/year/2007/make/gmc/model/yukon
When I finally finished, I drove the truck to bed the pads, and not a squeak, not a shudder, nothing. PERFECT!.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwr-k2068-36/overview/year/2007/make/gmc/model/yukon
When I finally finished, I drove the truck to bed the pads, and not a squeak, not a shudder, nothing. PERFECT!.
HiHoeSilver
Away!
The other set is up over the axle in the middle.
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