Flush your brake fluid!!

[992dr]

Yeah I don't do anything after November. I have to work in my driveway and I hate the cold.

After finishing my suspension in high 20s to mid 50 degree weather, I'm done. I typically wait until warm weather but I had 11 days off and no rush to gitter done. But, now that I'm back on my regular scheduled program, nope

 

[Mighty Hd]

Just did a complete brake job on new to me 07 Denali with 75k. I partially drained and filled the master cylinder via turkey baster 2x's a couple months before doing the brake job. I replaced everything in the brake system including new stainless hoses, drained the calipers and was still surprised at the rust, metal, and one rear caliper had nasty grey fluid almost resembling bad gear oil.

I am lucky enough to not live in a rust prone area where lines rust out etc. I do this on all my vehicles every 2 years or so and always get a nice performance difference in braking. A fluid flush will cost anywhere from $7-$16 bucks depending on what fluid you buy.

Our rides usually spec Dot 3 but you can use 4 or 5.1 safely, I used Castrol Dot 4. For a homemade bleeder setup I used a plastic fitting from a harbor freight bleeder kit and some clear hose fed into a RC car fuel bottle with a little fluid added to prevent air getting sucked back in. I would have preferred a larger hose over the bleeder nipple but didn't have one available. Cheap, easy, usually nice performance bump and keeps you and the family safe.View attachment 187303 View attachment 187304 View attachment 187305 View attachment 187306 View attachment 187303 View attachment 187304 View attachment 187305 View attachment 187306

Where did you get the stainless brake lines at??

 

[jrobie79]

I just did the stainless swap, witih a lift and those two above the axle were still a HUGE PITA. I had to basically remove the mounting bracket, a few of the tank vent hoses and tweak the lines slightly just to get clearance to turn a flare wrench. I had soaked the nuts in PB blaster for several days prior to doing this so thankfully they all came off and went back on unstripped. I haven't torqued everything down yet, I'll do that tomorrow - what are the torque settings for the caliper banjo bolts?

Another question - I know dorman makes stainless hard lines for the NBS, is there a similar kit for NNBS?

 

[HiHoeSilver]

I just did the stainless swap, witih a lift and those two above the axle were still a HUGE PITA. I had to basically remove the mounting bracket, a few of the tank vent hoses and tweak the lines slightly just to get clearance to turn a flare wrench. I had soaked the nuts in PB blaster for several days prior to doing this so thankfully they all came off and went back on unstripped. I haven't torqued everything down yet, I'll do that tomorrow - what are the torque settings for the caliper banjo bolts?

Another question - I know dorman makes stainless hard lines for the NBS, is there a similar kit for NNBS?

Which lines did you use?

 

[jrobie79]

Which lines did you use?

Goodridge

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Goodrifgf

6 line kit? Even though the center lines were tough, it sounds like the fittings worked? Others had reported problems.

 

[jrobie79]

6 line kit? Even though the center lines were tough, it sounds like the fittings worked? Others had reported problems.

They seem to fit fine

 

[jrobie79]

6 line kit? Even though the center lines were tough, it sounds like the fittings worked? Others had reported problems.

no problems, need to bleed em again, but I've drive 60 miles so far on em, no leaks.

 

[Bart Hinder]

Bleed them as you would normally. Right when you start to press the brake pedal, turn the key to ON (not START) while you continue your pedal stroke. You should be pressing the pedal slowly- about 2-3 seconds form start to stop. Hold the pedal when you get to the bottom, turn the key OFF, pump once more, then do they key ON pump cycle again. Do this 4 or 5 times. When you first turn the key ON, all the systems do a self-check and the ABS solenoids are activated during this self-check. They're not constantly held open like the TechII or MDI would do, but firing them while you're pumping the fluid through the system a few times should be plenty to move the old fluid and any trapped air out of the ABS solenoid block and down the line towards the calipers. I've done this countless times on various makes and models of vehicles I've bled the brakes on and have always had a firm pedal afterwards. NOTE: Lay a 2x4 under the brake pedal to keep the pedal from bottoming out. You can tear the seals in the master cylinder by stroking it beyond it's normal range of travel.

I'm not against owning a TechII or equivalent. But, for a simple brake/bleed job, you can achieve the same results with a piece of 2x4 and a few extra turns of the key.

So just to be clear:

1. key on
2. slow pedal stroke
3. hold the stroke
4. key off
5. final pump
6. repeat 4 or 5 times.

That sequence needs to be performed four times, once for each caliper, before closing each drain port, correct?

I gotta start doing my own wrenching again.

 

[iamdub]

So just to be clear:

1. key on
2. slow pedal stroke
3. hold the stroke
4. key off
5. final pump
6. repeat 4 or 5 times.

That sequence needs to be performed four times, once for each caliper, before closing each drain port, correct?

I gotta start doing my own wrenching again.

It's not like you have to stick exactly to "Up, Up, Down, Down, Left, Right, Left, Right, B, A, Start".

I'd simplify it as:

1. Start to push pedal

2. Almost at same time as 1., turn key on while continuing to stroke pedal slowly

3. Bottom out pedal on 2x4 or brick, release, then repeat stroke 4-5 times

4. Key off

5. Repeat steps 1-4


I do this for all the calipers, but do about 97% of the bleeding through the right rear caliper. I bleed that one until the fluid in the bottle is completely clean, indicating all the lines from the master cylinder to that farthest point have been flushed of all old fluid. Bleeding the other calipers goes much faster since you're only bleeding/flushing the fluid from that caliper and the few feet of brake line to the splitter or valve module (For those with StabilliTrak).