Fox coilovers with xineering magnaride delete kit

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Fifty

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I want to keep roughly the same height. Maybe a level in the front and 1 inch in the rear.

but I want a much better shock. I’m thinking about a king 3.0 c/o in the front and a 3.0 3 tube bypass out back if it will fit.

these trucks are just so heavy I am not sure a 2.5 will handle it. I know a 2.0 will struggle on anything but smooth pavement...

just the price is so $$$$$. I am trying to sell the wife on it by comparing the price of mrc replacemnts which seem to last about 20k miles only.
 
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olyelr

olyelr

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I want to keep roughly the same height. Maybe a level in the front and 1 inch in the rear.

but I want a much better shock. I’m thinking about a king 3.0 c/o in the front and a 3.0 3 tube bypass out back if it will fit.

these trucks are just so heavy I am not sure a 2.5 will handle it. I know a 2.0 will struggle on anything but smooth pavement...

just the price is so $$$$$. I am trying to sell the wife on it by comparing the price of mrc replacemnts which seem to last about 20k miles only.

Just go to the dealer and get a price on having them replace the front magnetic strut assembly. That will be good ammunition toward your argument. LOL

Im sure a properly tuned 2.5” king would hold up just fine under most any conditions, aside from straight up dune blasting for long durations.
 

G00se

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I want to keep roughly the same height. Maybe a level in the front and 1 inch in the rear.

but I want a much better shock. I’m thinking about a king 3.0 c/o in the front and a 3.0 3 tube bypass out back if it will fit.

these trucks are just so heavy I am not sure a 2.5 will handle it. I know a 2.0 will struggle on anything but smooth pavement...

just the price is so $$$$$. I am trying to sell the wife on it by comparing the price of mrc replacemnts which seem to last about 20k miles only.

Pretty sure I'm looking for the same thing. A well known shop in my area suggessted ICON but it was too much $$$$ at the time. After I replaced the MRC, the ride still sucks and I've found myself off road more often so really need to make a change. Go for it Fifty and I may do the same.
 
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olyelr

olyelr

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Well, the rear shocks are now shot. Ive noticed the ride is getting a little wollowy back there. Can push up and down on the rear bumper and get the back and bouncing pretty good. Its at 90k miles now.


Think Im gonna buy replacement air shocks. I really like the air assist feature and dont want to lose that. Anyone have a recommendation on replacement brands?
 

Fifty

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Thats what Im wondering. Has anyone found a quality reaer air bag shock? I know king and fox make air bag shocks but I think they are one offs
 
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olyelr

olyelr

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Thats what Im wondering. Has anyone found a quality reaer air bag shock? I know king and fox make air bag shocks but I think they are one offs


At this point I think I will just get an OEM replacement. Im mean, it lasted 90k. She wont have the truck by the time the next set is shot.
 

Fifty

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IM looking for a lift spring, and I will run a bag bladder in the spring and connect the air lines to it. That way I can run a good shock and have the auto level... I hope....
 
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olyelr

olyelr

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IM looking for a lift spring, and I will run a bag bladder in the spring and connect the air lines to it. That way I can run a good shock and have the auto level... I hope....


I was thinking of doing that, but with a typical set of bags that go at the bumpstops. Same concept though. Have you seen anybody do this utilizing the factory compressor and plumbing? Seems like it would work just fine, but I do not know anything about the factory compressor/plumbing setup. Never looked under there before.
 

Akinshake

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So I just did this exact thing. Fox coil overs,3/4 (didn’t delete auto leveling like I did in the front) xingeering mrc delete and used airlift bladder bags(60769) in the stock shocks and plumbed them to factory compressor. I added 1” spacers out back so I extended my auto leveling links using 10-24 machine thread, I got 4” and cut them down to what I remember to be 3/8” over factory length. I ran the supplied 1/4” air Hose from the Bags to the compressor. Here’s a pic of the abomination of adapters. After deliberation and a few other attempts, this is the best option I came up with. I replaced the factory T and used the factory line to the driver air shock (I figured that might be the cheapest to replace if I ever wanted to reverse this). Attached my adapter thing directly to the compressor. Turned it on, compressor kicked on, and kicked off pretty soon after. Not sure if it will level out correctly. Need to put weight on to test it and possibly adjust link length.

I will try to do a better write up once I get some more time, but feel free to ask any questions, hopefully I can help.

I’m getting new tires this week. 305/45/r22 Nitto Terra Grappler G2.

4E4D25B1-BA5F-44CD-8DB5-11778195A44F.jpeg 61814939-752F-49E8-9481-E8FAD79C65EF.jpeg
 

Akinshake

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I was thinking of doing that, but with a typical set of bags that go at the bumpstops. Same concept though. Have you seen anybody do this utilizing the factory compressor and plumbing? Seems like it would work just fine, but I do not know anything about the factory compressor/plumbing setup. Never looked under there before.
IM looking for a lift spring, and I will run a bag bladder in the spring and connect the air lines to it. That way I can run a good shock and have the auto level... I hope....
Tried to tag y’all in previous comment, but, see above.
 

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