Front wheels toe in under power... a lot!
- Thread starter nosole
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Pointing out an answer to your question and what would remedy the concern is "helpful" IMO. No one here knows what research you put in to it or your tech capacity. Being defensive will never get you help with "asked for answers" to your questions. That is a lonely path.
Alright. Let’s all relax. It was stupid of me to even engage that way regardless of how I might feel. I know full well that being at all adversarial online never ends well and surely doesn’t advance the subject toward a productive solution. So, all good... water under the bridge.
I’m gonna continue looking into the suggested options and will come back with other questions or updates.
For now, I’ve adjusted the camber from positive to neutral, and left a little toe out. It drives fine for normal conditions, though accelerating from a stop while heading up hill still being the worst offender. I’m going to take probly another inch of height out of the front, pending any other longer term solution.
I’m gonna continue looking into the suggested options and will come back with other questions or updates.
For now, I’ve adjusted the camber from positive to neutral, and left a little toe out. It drives fine for normal conditions, though accelerating from a stop while heading up hill still being the worst offender. I’m going to take probly another inch of height out of the front, pending any other longer term solution.
Are you planning on having it aligned and if so could you post the before and after readout of the specs?
Yes. I have to do some trimming to accommodate the new wheels/tires. Once they’re on, I’m taking it in. Hopefully that’ll happen next week. My adjustments are only temporary to hold me over til then.
Great. If I see the printout then I can see if the right amount of caster lead on the right is there and if the shop is a "set the toe and go" shop.
Yeah. I’m going to mention it specifically when I take it in. I don’t think it’ll be an issue though. The place I use is very well respected in the community and has always done good work.
On that subject, do you have specs handy that I might provide to them?
On that subject, do you have specs handy that I might provide to them?
SnowDrifter
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2016
- Posts
- 2,445
- Reaction score
- 2,688
Why would you need to provide them with specs as a customer? They have their own databases
Also: Not sure getting defensive here is appropriate. To be blunt, there's no magic bullet that will correct for boinked suspension geometry. I get cash flow can be tight, but the flipside to that is just because that's the case doesn't mean it's an excuse to (politely) half-ass a job. Either waiting / saving until funds are available, or just opting not to do a given mod is always an option.
Also: Not sure getting defensive here is appropriate. To be blunt, there's no magic bullet that will correct for boinked suspension geometry. I get cash flow can be tight, but the flipside to that is just because that's the case doesn't mean it's an excuse to (politely) half-ass a job. Either waiting / saving until funds are available, or just opting not to do a given mod is always an option.
Well, you’re completely right, I shouldn’t have to. It’s more that I have very little disposable time so I prefer to go into something having the answer so I can be clear about my expectations up front. That leaves less open to interpretation and hedges against the “meh, good enough” sentiment of the “toe and go” vendor. I gain no satisfaction in being right if it wastes time and energy that I could’ve saved by being thoughtful ahead of time.
And yes, I totally agree. Being defensive doesn’t help. Don’t bite the hand that feeds! I honestly thought that leveling the truck was an adequate and relatively safe compromise because I know if I actually do lift this or any other truck, I will want to spend the dough to make it right, and that’s just not in the cards right now. C’est la vie. Failures are better educators than successes if you ask me. Just trying to make the best of a less than ideal situation.
FWIW, 2” in the front seems to be a relatively happy place. I know I’ll pay for it in tire wear, worn ball joints, CVS, etc in the long run, but at least for now it’s Ok.
And yes, I totally agree. Being defensive doesn’t help. Don’t bite the hand that feeds! I honestly thought that leveling the truck was an adequate and relatively safe compromise because I know if I actually do lift this or any other truck, I will want to spend the dough to make it right, and that’s just not in the cards right now. C’est la vie. Failures are better educators than successes if you ask me. Just trying to make the best of a less than ideal situation.
FWIW, 2” in the front seems to be a relatively happy place. I know I’ll pay for it in tire wear, worn ball joints, CVS, etc in the long run, but at least for now it’s Ok.
Rd05lly
TYF Newbie
So CV angles are rolling the center link when you are under power you have a few options. But first you need to check pitman arm and idle arm. Now thanks to Duramax guys sled pulling and boosted launching there are a few ways to fix
