fuel pump nightmare.

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2door2wheel

2door2wheel

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its what came on the truck . if i had to guess id say its square. i think electrical is a good guess . but the fact that the fuel pressure drops to zero as soon as you let off the key is a red flag to a leak of some kind (although i cant smell leaking fuel anywhere) im just shooting in the dark at this point
 
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Best way to check if the bleed off is at the fuel pressure regulator is get a pair of vise grips or if you have a pair of pinch off pliers your going to need to pairs of vise grips/pinch off pliers even needle nose will work best and pinch off the fuel pressure return line thing is the only place you can do that is up under the vehicle on the drivers side next to the rear center of the transmission area because the rest of the line is a metal pipe you will be able to identify the return line because it will be the smaller one of 2 the feed and return line, use the pliers to pinch off the return line, stay there if you can get someone to turn the ignition on to crank as there doing that with the second pair pinch off the feed line which is the bigger line then watch fuel pressure if it still drops chances are your going to need the CPI injector set. If it holds its going to be the fuel pump, which is my question where are you getting the fuel pump from, those CPI fuel injection systems are very sensitive to fuel pressure and volume, if you have to go to checking the electrical end of it using a volt meter isnt going to do you any good, your going to want to use a 12 volt test light because you want to load the circuit, at the fuel pump connector would be best if you can get a paper clip put it on the ground terminal which is the black wire of the connector do what you can to get a sterdy solid connection with the paper clip in the connector then get the test light clip and clip it to the paper clip with the other end of the test light poke the power feed terminal at the fuel pump harness connector whitch should be the one with the gray wire have someone crank it and the test light needs to light up brightly.. hope that helps getting us closer to the source of the problem.. Hey Raiderron, I told you that I was going to stalk you, you can run but you cant hide, Ahahahahaha
 
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2door2wheel

2door2wheel

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Best way to check if the bleed off is at the fuel pressure regulator is get a pair of vise grips or if you have a pair of pinch off pliers your going to need to pairs of vise grips/pinch off pliers even needle nose will work best and pinch off the fuel pressure return line thing is the only place you can do that is up under the vehicle on the drivers side next to the rear center of the transmission area because the rest of the line is a metal pipe you will be able to identify the return line because it will be the smaller one of 2 the feed and return line, use the pliers to pinch off the return line, stay there if you can get someone to turn the ignition on to crank as there doing that with the second pair pinch off the feed line which is the bigger line then watch fuel pressure if it still drops chances are your going to need the CPI injector set. If it holds its going to be the fuel pump, which is my question where are you getting the fuel pump from, those CPI fuel injection systems are very sensitive to fuel pressure and volume, if you have to go to checking the electrical end of it using a volt meter isnt going to do you any good, your going to want to use a 12 volt test light because you want to load the circuit, at the fuel pump connector would be best if you can get a paper clip put it on the ground terminal which is the black wire of the connector do what you can to get a sterdy solid connection with the paper clip in the connector then get the test light clip and clip it to the paper clip with the other end of the test light poke the power feed terminal at the fuel pump harness connector whitch should be the one with the gray wire have someone crank it and the test light needs to light up brightly.. hope that helps getting us closer to the source of the problem.. Hey Raiderron, I told you that I was going to stalk you, you can run but you cant hide, Ahahahahaha
thanks man im going to try this tomorrow i need my truck back this whole thing is killing me.

---------- Post added at 11:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:16 PM ----------

o by the way ive tried two different fuel pumps one was airtex and i forgot the brand of the 4th one
 

sgtpoliteness

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I may have missed it, but have you checked the resistance of the pumps before and after they've failed? And are there little metal bits on the floor of the tank right below the pick up after they've failed?
 

SunlitComet

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If it is a square Metra 150 connector then that is very like the problem. It is prone to repetitive pump failures from residual damage to the connector that cause voltage drops. Any new pump should be the redesigned unit with a new pigtail to install. There was a tsb on this. What year is your vehicle?
 
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2door2wheel

2door2wheel

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If it is a square Metra 150 connector then that is very like the problem. It is prone to repetitive pump failures from residual damage to the connector that cause voltage drops. Any new pump should be the redesigned unit with a new pigtail to install. There was a tsb on this. What year is your vehicle?


its a 1997 2wd 2 door tahoe
 

SunlitComet

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How many pipes are on your pump/sender module?

---------- Post added at 01:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:16 PM ----------

Also were you just doing the pump itself or the entire assembly? And Delphi or Delco assembly only please.
 

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