fuel sending unit/fuel pump

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Dneel81

Dneel81

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Pressure tested the radiator and coolant system. the heater control valve then decided to explode.replaced that no other leaks up to 18 psi .

gonna smoke test the vacuum line too. I don't trust my negative "spray methanol all over the vacuum lines and listen for idle changes" test. still seems like a vacuum line could be an issue.

Compression testing turned out to be negative x 8 cylinders. all 185-190 psi. going to replace spark plugs tonight and see what's up. then I'll have to bite the bullet and replace the ignition module. making good progress though. Thank you all for the input.

DN
 
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Dneel81

Dneel81

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Update for anyone interested.

Pressure tested the radiator to about 20 PSI. I managed to explode the heater core switch valve thingiemajig just in front of the ac condensor on the passenger firewall. It exploded at about 15 psi and fell apart when I replaced it. Also noticed leaking slowly around the thermostat housing on the intake. Replaced thermostat with new gasket 190* model. Also managed to fracture the plastic fitting on the top (ECM) coolant temperature sensor, so replaced those.
I think I made extra work for myself when I replaced the lower (gauge) coolant temperature sensor. It was rubbing the manifold and the gauge only goes to 150. However the gauge is correctly working. Reason #1 - ground it out and it swings all the way to hot (240 degrees, about 2 oclock). Second reason is that I think I put the needle on incorrectly on the gauge when I switched out the instrument cluster with the 5 speed on to match the NV4500. I'll get the temperature up to running and move the needle to match my OBD scanner tool's temperature from the ecm (about 195 or so).

Reading and reading and reading around about the codes I'm getting and I found the issue. The ENG1 fuse is blown and blows with any ignition on/running activity. I have a short somewhere. No doubt I've disturbed something while I swapped out the 4L60e and put in the NV4500. I'll climb under there tomorrow and see what I need to rewire/replace. I'll make sure it's away from the exhaust manifold or whatever i disturbed to bugger it up. I'll keep ya'll posted. Once I figure out the motor issues, I can start on my other projects for this truck
1. solid axle swap (IFS out, dana 44 in up front)
2. timing cover leak/front oil pan leak
3. leaking p.s. pump
4. slip yoke eliminator
5. rear end swap (14 bolt)
 
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Dneel81

Dneel81

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If I was any happier or relieved, I'd need a cigarette and a new pair of boxer briefs. Soooooo, saga is over...for the moment. Last night before bed I read about an ENG1 fuse blowing and causing the code cluster I was having. The codes were listed earlier in the thread. This has been a problem since I started this thread 6 weeks or so ago now. Anywho, I now see what I screwed up. When I took the 4L60 out of the tahoe and put the NV4500 in there, I did not pay good attention to the wiring under the truck and between the tranny. The wires were loose, not loomed, and not in that black plastic conduit crap. At the same time when the tranny went in, I took out the xfer case (243 I think...the one with the push buttons on the dash) and put in a 241 (floor shift version). In doing that, I drilled holes in the floorpan and screwed in the shifter boot/plastic housing thingiemawhatsit. So there sat sharp screws around my wires. This was about 10 months ago I think… About 8 weeks ago the screw finally shorted out the wire and blew ENG1 fuse. That fuse controls power to the MAF, the throttle position sensor, the Cam position sensor etc. I noticed a new hiccup on the highway. I did make the rookie mistake of throwing parts at the problem in the form of one Intake Air Temp sensor ($20). Obviously this did jack squat for the truck idling funny and missing/hiccupping on the highway. Really left a bad taste in my mouth for not fixing the problem the first time. Finally got busy with the multimeter and found 75mV at the 12 lead of the harness on the MAF. Than began the hunt for the shorted wire -

I put in a new 20A fuse and it blew immediately. Unhooked all the undercarriage oxygen sensors, 4x4 switch, reverse switch, neutral safety switch. Hooked them in one at a time until I fiddled them and something blew. It was the massive set of wires from the original auto tranny plug.

A pink wire (shocker) was exposed and shorting out on the screw that holds the transfer case shifter housing down. Repaired that wire then checked for 12 volts at my MAF harness. 11.34 volts all day long. Fiddled around and found no other bad wiring areas. Rewrapped it all in the plastic jazz, heat shrunk on some connectors for the remaining wiring stuff I’d undone, and she’s running good. Only 3 codes now as opposed to the 11 or so before. PCM still looking for the tranny shift solenoid and some other 4L60 stuff that’s obviously not there. I can tune those out with blackbear or some custom tuner near home. Next projects are a solid axle up front, fix the oil pan leak/timing cover leak while the IFS crap is not in the way, 14 bolt SF out back, slip yoke eliminator for the 241, new front and rear shafts and whatever else I break along the way.

Lesson learned…mind your damn wires!
 
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