G2 diff covers

[1992rs]

Has anyone had success with running any of the G2 line of diff covers? Ideally I would like to run the brute but it looks like its similar to the mag-hytec so Im assuming that ones a no-go, but what about the Torque or Hammer? I like the torque because of the dipstick and the girdle bolts. Im going to call them when I get the chance but figured you guys would have better knowledge.

If you have, are you lowered, lifted, or stock height? What about stock or aftermarket panhard bar?

If it doesnt Im just going to go with the PML cover unless anyone has any better suggestions.

 

[1992rs]

Called G2, none fit. Ordered TA performance girdle with the ARP carrier bearing stud kit. The F-body guys swear by them until they go 9"/12-bolt

 

[jerryjoe28]

why is the mag hy tech style a no go?

 

[Rocket Man]

Did you get the TA_1811 ? Also, out of curiosity: why did you feel the need for a girder?

 

[1992rs]

why is the mag hy tech style a no go?

It is a much bigger diff cover and wont clear the panhard bar, except maybe if you are lifted a lot with a custom panhard bar. I wish I could make it work because I like the design and magnetic dipstick feature.

Did you get the TA_1811 ? Also, out of curiosity: why did you feel the need for a girder?

I ordered 1807A. It is their low profile version which is necessary for our panhard bar'd trucks. I went with the girdle because I wanted a diff cover that had a drain plug and whenever I start making real power the additional bracing from the diff cover and carrier bearing studs will help the 10 bolt live. I just couldn't justify the $215 for the PML cover and I cant keep things stock lol also the 3rd/4th gen Camaro guys swears it helps their silly little 10 bolts hold up to a little bit more power...Until a hard clutch dump lol

 

[Rocket Man]

Well it should do the job for sure but I've heard it's the 4L60E transmission that's the weak point in our drivetrain when we start making power. Are you thinking of going boosted? I'd like to get a supercharger but I'm worried about having to build the tranny too and that would make it a bit expensive. Also, there's the front diff on our Denali's. Not sure how well they hold up since after hearing about the tranny I kind of lost interest.

 

[1992rs]

Well it should do the job for sure but I've heard it's the 4L60E transmission that's the weak point in our drivetrain when we start making power. Are you thinking of going boosted? I'd like to get a supercharger but I'm worried about having to build the tranny too and that would make it a bit expensive. Also, there's the front diff on our Denali's. Not sure how well they hold up since after hearing about the tranny I kind of lost interest.

Most likely I will go high-compression n/a stroker first off. When I get bored with that I'll end up buying an l92 or something with bigger bore potential and go supercharged.

From everything Ive read, there really is no point to build the 4l60E especially in big heavy trucks like we own. There is a guy on the silverado ss forums and pt.net who used to make an adapter for our t-cases so you can run a 4l80e, I dont know if he still makes him or not but they will handle almost any amount of power you can throw at it. It replaces the input shaft in our transfer cases to match the 4l80e 32 spline output shaft. His name is Time2kill iirc.

As far as our front diffs go, there is nothing we can modify to make it stronger. They will hold up to street/track duties and launches decently but they really fail offroad. There is a guy on the silverado ss forums who is over 1000awhp (he uses a 4l80e and that adapter as well) and he can make the front diff last for a little while. The only thing I can think of without reinventing the wheel is get the whole housing and parts cryogenically treated. Heat is the enemy and the cryo treatment should keep it cooler. Some people think its a farce, The companies have data that says otherwise, who knows whats true lol

 

[1992rs]

Got the girdle today. Its really a work of art. Will install within the next couple weeks and attach pictures. For those who are interested in buying, figure out whether you are metric or standard beforehand or go to the hardware store and buy the correct stainless steel bolts, as the ones they provide are not.

 

[1992rs]

So I finally got to it when I did a complete fluid change. I also added carrier bearing studs because it was already off anyway. It IS NOT a direct bolt-in affair like I was told even though it is the low-profile one. I had to notch my panhard bar and grind down one of the fins a little to make it work. If I had time and extra fluid I would have put the factory one back on and machined the backside of it down, because its quite thick, and it might work that way, but Im still satisfied with it. Ill report to see if I smack anything as time goes on.