GeorgeB’s 2013 Suburban LTZ “Fin”

[George B]

That, my friends is how a $2 hose turns into $60 on a wiper arm and blade. Buying a GM arm and Delco blade. Don’t want to buy aftermarket twice…

 

[George B]

That, my friends is how a $2 hose turns into $60 on a wiper arm and blade. Buying a GM arm and Delco blade. Don’t want to buy aftermarket twice…

I can’t justify this. I cancelled my amazon orders. I stretched the hose more so it would be long enough and did a good job gluing the nozzle back on. I reinstalled the arm and added a bit of hot glue to keep the stupid cap retained. Will pickup a $10 blade locally and put it on. I will run that as long as it lasts and then see about a new arm.

Edit:
I thought I would try to fix this for a temporary repair but I can’t cancel my orders.

Bedtime!

 

[George B]

Just realized that Ol’ McDummy installed the hose in the wrong direction. I didn’t cut it too short. Sometimes I think I have a mental issue!

 

[George B]

I have everything back together temporarily for now. My new arm and wiper are due on the 30th and have free returns. My gut tells me to just install the new stuff when it arrives and call it good. if all that plastic was so brittle that it broke so easily I feel like the arm is near the end of it's life anyway. If I don't replace it I bet it fails at the most inconvenient time.

 

[gooffeyguy]

I've read that the wiper arm comes with no splines where it mounts and only the shaft has splines and they cut into the softer metal on the arm when tightening down the nut. That's what makes them so hard to get off and needs a puller.

 

[George B]

I've read that the wiper arm comes with no splines where it mounts and only the shaft has splines and they cut into the softer metal on the arm when tightening down the nut. That's what makes them so hard to get off and needs a puller.

I gathered as much too. I have never needed a puller before but am considering buying one now.

Those wheels look good on your truck BTW.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

I've read that the wiper arm comes with no splines where it mounts and only the shaft has splines and they cut into the softer metal on the arm when tightening down the nut. That's what makes them so hard to get off and needs a puller.

Mine was stuck pretty good, don't remember how I ended up getting it off, but no puller or hammer was used.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Throw the new parts on it. You won't regret it.

 

[George B]

Did a oil change yesterday and shook the front down for slop. Have a very slight hardly noticeable “bump” when shaking the right front to check steering components. No noticeable movement in the outer tie rod end. Might be the inner or could be the rack. I can’t make it happen from the left side. I think I will just monitor it for change over the summer. Everything else is GTG.

Question:
How many miles you all getting before a front refresh? I know its coming and have a cart full at RA just to track PNs for now. I was hoping for another year. I average 14,000 miles a year.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Did a oil change yesterday and shook the front down for slop. Have a very slight hardly noticeable “bump” when shaking the right front to check steering components. No noticeable movement in the outer tie rod end. Might be the inner or could be the rack. I can’t make it happen from the left side. I think I will just monitor it for change over the summer. Everything else is GTG.

Question:
How many miles you all getting before a front refresh? I know its coming and have a cart full at RA just to track PNs for now. I was hoping for another year. I average 14,000 miles a year.

I just did mine in October at 138k. I had bad upper/lower ball joints and a bad inner tie rod. I replaced entire control arms both upper and lower and inner/outer tie rods on both sides. The wheel bearings are still good, so didn't mess with them, but the front brake pads were toast so replaced the pads and rotors a couple weeks later.