GMT900 Factory SUV Suspension Options

[Joseph Garcia]

The autoride shocks have internal electric solenoids that can restrict the flow of the shock's fluid, this providing variable dampening at each of the shocks. Like the magnetic ride shocks, the dampening changes are dictated by a computer.

 

[gooffeyguy]

The autoride shocks have internal electric solenoids that can restrict the flow of the shock's fluid, this providing variable dampening at each of the shocks. Like the magnetic ride shocks, the dampening changes are dictated by a computer.

So basically the same, but done in a different way

 

[Joseph Garcia]

So basically the same, but done in a different way

Yes. GM claims that the magnetic ride shocks have less internal moving parts and are less apt to fail in the long run, than the autoride shocks.

 

[iamdub]

What's the difference in the shocks/struts between the magnetic ride control and autoride (electronic) ride control

How I understand it is that the AutoRide shocks and struts have an electronically variable orifice to alter the fluid's movement and, therefore, the damping characteristics. The MagneRide changes the viscosity of a ferrous fluid using variable electromagnetic force. The AutoRide has more moving parts and doesn't have the range nor speed of adjustability that the MagneRide does. IIRC, the AutoRide can respond in 20 milliseconds whereas the MagneRide responds in 5 milliseconds.

 

[avalonandl]

I need to get some replacement auto ride struts. Having Z55 it shown acdelco 19420491. $ 255 each.....gulp...but I do thinks right.

 

[Tahoe_SSV]

Ok, so I've been trying to figure out what options I have to replace my rear shocks on my 09 Chevy Tahoe SSV 4x4 LS. So I am attaching my RPO codes from inside my glove box. Could someone please tell me what I have and what I am able to replace with. Thanks in advance

 

[iamdub]

I wasn't sure where to ask this, but I wanted to tag someone with a Tech2 and with sizable OEM suspension knowledge: @swathdiver

I know the suspension controller can be reprogrammed as (I believe) there was a TSB on the K2xx to fix overly firm shocks. Based on my experiences with my '08, the controller had my struts and shocks really firm. Surely, being an LTZ, it didn't ride like this when new. So, I have a suspicion that the controller firms up the shocks to compensate for wear by factoring age, mileage and maybe even suspension cycles via the ride height sensors. Is this true/partially true? Can the controller be reset or reprogrammed?

Does anyone know how the struts and shocks are adjusted? My guess is variable voltage. Anyone know the scale?

 

[swathdiver]

Ok, so I've been trying to figure out what options I have to replace my rear shocks on my 09 Chevy Tahoe SSV 4x4 LS. So I am attaching my RPO codes from inside my glove box. Could someone please tell me what I have and what I am able to replace with. Thanks in advance

Using your VIN and options I came up with 540-433/25871225. If you want a more off-roady shock, use 540-300/25871229.

https://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/acesCat.php?glsId=aces

I wasn't sure where to ask this, but I wanted to tag someone with a Tech2 and with sizable OEM suspension knowledge: @swathdiver

I know the suspension controller can be reprogrammed as (I believe) there was a TSB on the K2xx to fix overly firm shocks. Based on my experiences with my '08, the controller had my struts and shocks really firm. Surely, being an LTZ, it didn't ride like this when new. So, I have a suspicion that the controller firms up the shocks to compensate for wear by factoring age, mileage and maybe even suspension cycles via the ride height sensors. Is this true/partially true? Can the controller be reset or reprogrammed?

Does anyone know how the struts and shocks are adjusted? My guess is variable voltage. Anyone know the scale?

I don't have that option on my truck so I cannot see it with a Tech-2. You might want to get a subscription to AllDataDIY. I used to be able to see other optional suspensions but since the upgrade it is vehicle specific now, good and bad!

 

[George B]

I wasn't sure where to ask this, but I wanted to tag someone with a Tech2 and with sizable OEM suspension knowledge: @swathdiver

I know the suspension controller can be reprogrammed as (I believe) there was a TSB on the K2xx to fix overly firm shocks. Based on my experiences with my '08, the controller had my struts and shocks really firm. Surely, being an LTZ, it didn't ride like this when new. So, I have a suspicion that the controller firms up the shocks to compensate for wear by factoring age, mileage and maybe even suspension cycles via the ride height sensors. Is this true/partially true? Can the controller be reset or reprogrammed?

Does anyone know how the struts and shocks are adjusted? My guess is variable voltage. Anyone know the scale?

I have messes with mine a little but don’t know too much. I know they vary the voltage to the shocks and I have graphed the activity and posted it somewhere on here. Here is a video of the graph.

 

[iamdub]

I have messes with mine a little but don’t know too much. I know they vary the voltage to the shocks and I have graphed the activity and posted it somewhere on here. Here is a video of the graph.

COOOOOL!

Here's my scandal: Like @S1W99, I want a legitimate "premium" ride. Yes, I want mine along with a 4" drop, but that's beside the point as it's completely doable. The key has to be the shocks. My stock ones were really stiff. When I unplugged them, it was like having no shocks at all. A quick left-right jig of the steering wheel sent it into a sideways oscillation that'd surely put it rubber side up if done at highway speeds. I don't see how getting new factory AutoRide shocks and struts would make the computer stop sending "firming voltage" to the shocks. This is why I'm wondering if there's a reset function to let it know that all is new and well and it's okay to relax and let the shocks do their thing. My thoughts are that new OEM shocks that are inherently more firm than my original worn ones would be even more firm since they'd be receiving the "firm 'em up" command from the controller.

Or, since they seem to still have an operable range of "dingy" to "dirt track car", I'd put my old ones back in and send them voltage from a transformer, controlled by a potentiometer. It'd be like a bass knob on the dash or wherever I put it. Far left would be a safe minimum of firmness for comfy highway cruising. Far right would be whatever voltage the original controller sent to lock 'em up. Anywhere in between would be for moderately damaged country roads with wide curves or corner-carving in the city. It'd be just like the adjustable shocks you have to test drive, then stop and twist knobs at each corner until you're satisfied. Only, these would be controlled electronically and from a single, centralized knob.