If your getting the 6.0 truck engine that came in the 2500's or even the 1500hd's get the 4l80e trans that is usually bolted to it.(Just check the RPO codes first) The 4l80e is the modern day th400 only with over drive. an absolute beast of a trans. You could hit a 4l80e trans that came from the factory with 500hp, stickey tires and track runs everyday all day long, all year long hot lapping it and not have to touch it. That may be a little much but they are tuff as nails from the factory. Get the engine trans and wire harness and slap it all in and go. That is what I have been thinking about doing if my 5.7 ever gives up. Only thing holding me back is cash flow. But if you can find one in a junkyard, take that thing and don't look back at this lazzy 4l60e. You have to have an LXX PCM to run the 4l80e or an after market controler. Thats the only thing that sucks about it but if you are going to use a 6.0 LQ4 get the trans, wire harness and PCM. Steal that shit if you have to lol.
Got my Mega monster trans installed!!!!
- Thread starter 97GT
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If your getting the 6.0 truck engine that came in the 2500's or even the 1500hd's get the 4l80e trans that is usually bolted to it.(Just check the RPO codes first) The 4l80e is the modern day th400 only with over drive. an absolute beast of a trans. You could hit a 4l80e trans that came from the factory with 500hp, stickey tires and track runs everyday all day long, all year long hot lapping it and not have to touch it. That may be a little much but they are tuff as nails from the factory. Get the engine trans and wire harness and slap it all in and go. That is what I have been thinking about doing if my 5.7 ever gives up. Only thing holding me back is cash flow. But if you can find one in a junkyard, take that thing and don't look back at this lazzy 4l60e. You have to have an LXX PCM to run the 4l80e or an after market controler. Thats the only thing that sucks about it but if you are going to use a 6.0 LQ4 get the trans, wire harness and PCM. Steal that shit if you have to lol.
young_2010_chris
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haha...my trany is givin up rite now thats y i was thinkin a monster since i wouldnt have to worry about convertin anything i read this thread on the net a wile back and i thought it sounded like it would b a pain in the ass but ill read up some more and after i round up a trany then im gonna round up the 6.o and all the little stuff i need my friend has a tuner so that part will b easy
blackcoffee
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I have a SS mega monster installed inside my 2 door. It has 100 miles on it.
I had nothing but trouble with this company. The tranny is still not right and they made me drive to brooksville back and fourth 4 times to pick and drop off trannys. I only recieved half of my deposit back, I really felt like I got RIPPED the **** off. I had spent COUNTLESS hours on the phone and countless hours driving to and from Brookesville. The thing shifts SO hard it nearly rattles the truck to pieces. I'm bringing it to a friend of mine thats going to get the thing on a lift and hopefully swap out the accumlator and the valve spring and everything else that made it a POS in my opinion. Then will see how long the thing holds up.
I had nothing but trouble with this company. The tranny is still not right and they made me drive to brooksville back and fourth 4 times to pick and drop off trannys. I only recieved half of my deposit back, I really felt like I got RIPPED the **** off. I had spent COUNTLESS hours on the phone and countless hours driving to and from Brookesville. The thing shifts SO hard it nearly rattles the truck to pieces. I'm bringing it to a friend of mine thats going to get the thing on a lift and hopefully swap out the accumlator and the valve spring and everything else that made it a POS in my opinion. Then will see how long the thing holds up.
It will soften up a bit in about 1k miles. They use a really good clutch pack (about the only good parts they use) and untill they wear in compleatly, they are neck snappers. Your story sounds like mine. I took my trans back to them the first time about 3 or 4 times. They mod the valve body for thier shift kit. I don't know if what they do to them is compleatly reversible. It maybe. Any time you use the HD clutches though they are gona be neck snappers for a bit. I went with the mild shift kit and everytime I have reinstalled it after thier rebuild it is really rough on the drive train. It will calm down a good bit once they wear in.
The firmness of the shift is not just the transmission or the servo’s, but the setting of the “Force Motor Tables” in the ECM. You can make any shift as soft or as hard as you want with pressure.
If you know someone that can edit the OBD-2 computer, spend some time on the tranny pressure settings. (force motor)
Every time I install a new transmission, the first thing I do is to take my transmission guy for a ride. He drives and watches the transmission pressure and I make the changes to the computer as he calls them out. We adjust the trans pressure from idle to WOT in each gear. Tables are most often pretty close so it just takes a little tweaking.
Pressures will run from around 70 psi at idle to over 300 psi, depending on the pump. One of the tricks to making these 4L60, tranny’s last longer behind large power, is to squeeze the ¾ clutch pack tighter than stock to keep them from slipping.
Seems like most guys around the forum here want the trans to shift hard. I would suggest that you set up the “performance switch” and program the computer to increase pressure by 40%. That way, you can have a smooth shifting trans for day to day driving and whenever you feel the need to jerk your neck, throw the switch.
You should also know that a stock OBD-2 is trying to soften the shift with the torque control. They also lock up the TC gradually to make everything smoother, rather than just going to 100% lockup.
I always recommend going to a stand alone TCU for the tranny. It’s always a money issue for most. Reality is, you will save money in the long run, by buying fewer transmissions.
If you know someone that can edit the OBD-2 computer, spend some time on the tranny pressure settings. (force motor)
Every time I install a new transmission, the first thing I do is to take my transmission guy for a ride. He drives and watches the transmission pressure and I make the changes to the computer as he calls them out. We adjust the trans pressure from idle to WOT in each gear. Tables are most often pretty close so it just takes a little tweaking.
Pressures will run from around 70 psi at idle to over 300 psi, depending on the pump. One of the tricks to making these 4L60, tranny’s last longer behind large power, is to squeeze the ¾ clutch pack tighter than stock to keep them from slipping.
Seems like most guys around the forum here want the trans to shift hard. I would suggest that you set up the “performance switch” and program the computer to increase pressure by 40%. That way, you can have a smooth shifting trans for day to day driving and whenever you feel the need to jerk your neck, throw the switch.
You should also know that a stock OBD-2 is trying to soften the shift with the torque control. They also lock up the TC gradually to make everything smoother, rather than just going to 100% lockup.
I always recommend going to a stand alone TCU for the tranny. It’s always a money issue for most. Reality is, you will save money in the long run, by buying fewer transmissions.
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