Growing up doesn't have to suck

[Tonyrodz]

Instead of a long typed response, here is the jest of it:

"The bypass valve – otherwise known as a pressure relief valve – is an integral part of the oil filter. The valve is designed to open when the oil filter becomes clogged or when the oil is too thick. This allows the oil to bypass the filter through a center tube. The oil then goes straight to the engine to prevent starvation and damage.
If the bypass valve doesn’t open when needed, the filter will swell and eventually burst. When this happens, the engine looses all oil pressure. The end result is either extensive engine damage, or complete engine failure. Choosing a high-quality oil filter for your vehicle helps to prevent this from happening."

But remember, if it does open and it does bypass, the filtration is lost but if the filter is clogged enough to allow bypass, it is not filtering anyway.

Got it. Makes sense. Thx Ron.

 

[OR VietVet]

Manufacturers, if I remember right, will have different pressure points where they want their OE filter to bypass at.

 

[iamdub]

In the scheme of things and considering the possible damage of a by-pass problem, WIX IMO, wins hands down. For me it has served me well all those years and were on my Harley's as well. I still say also, that the time frame between changes is very important and should be less than any of the oil companies say. I consider all my driving as severe and still stick to a low mileage and short time between changes. It is, IMO, the cheapest insurance I can recommend to take care of the engine.

Word. OVER-changing oil will never pose an engine problem and will always be cheaper than damage caused by not changing frequently enough. As documented here, I'm in no danger of going too long on an OCI! I'm using fully synthetic diesel engine oil that's designed to be ran for many times my OCI in an environment many times harsher and filthier than what I subject it to.

I bet that if I could run my used oil through a series of filtration modules to remove the contaminants and get it back to just the oil, it could be put right back into the engine with no loss of protection.

 

[iamdub]

Instead of a long typed response, here is the jest of it:

"The bypass valve – otherwise known as a pressure relief valve – is an integral part of the oil filter. The valve is designed to open when the oil filter becomes clogged or when the oil is too thick. This allows the oil to bypass the filter through a center tube. The oil then goes straight to the engine to prevent starvation and damage.
If the bypass valve doesn’t open when needed, the filter will swell and eventually burst. When this happens, the engine looses all oil pressure. The end result is either extensive engine damage, or complete engine failure. Choosing a high-quality oil filter for your vehicle helps to prevent this from happening."

But remember, if it does open and it does bypass, the filtration is lost but if the filter is clogged enough to allow bypass, it is not filtering anyway.

Right. With running such clean oil, there's no way my filter would ever be clogged. So, technically, I don't need a bypass. My concern is the bypass, at any rated activation psi, can still leak a little. Maybe even be fully open at higher RPM and max oil pressure (70+ psi for me).

 

[Rocket Man]

According to that chart, the K&N has a much better micron rating. I didn't even notice this when I was focused on finding a no-bypass or high-psi bypass filter.

There are some conflicting perspectives here. Assuming these figures are factual, which would you prefer? The filter that catches smaller particles but could more easily allow bypass (no filtration at all) or a filter that can't catch as small of particles, but still keeps the oil going through the filter?

How easily and/or often does a filter go into bypass? How small of particle is still okay to circulate through the engine?

BTW, according to the labels, the K&N HP-2011 filters I was using were made in USA.

I feel if a filter goes into bypass you're already in trouble IMO. I mean in theory it will save your engine, but if your filter is so plugged that it bypasses, and now the bypass opens, you're gonna keep on driving it until the engine dies a slow death. Because you let the filter get that plugged up and your oil is baaaaaaad.

 

[alpha_omega]

According to that chart, the K&N has a much better micron rating. I didn't even notice this when I was focused on finding a no-bypass or high-psi bypass filter.
How easily and/or often does a filter go into bypass? How small of particle is still okay to circulate through the engine?

BTW, according to the labels, the K&N HP-2011 filters I was using were made in USA.

K&N used to be a California based made in the USA California based company, but has since outsourced some of their products to Mexico and China. However, I think it might just be their motorcycle filters.

Wix was purchased by a Germany company and has only one plant left in the US. Like the others, they may label themselves as made in the USA, BUT that’s not entirely true, or not the case at all with some of them.

So the question still stands…Wix, Mobil 1 or K&N? Given the fact that none of us run dirty oil or let our filters get that clogged, the Mobil 1 filter is a beefier build than the Wix.

Word. OVER-changing oil will never pose an engine problem and will always be cheaper than damage caused by not changing frequently enough.

I bet that…I could run my used oil…it could be put right back into the engine with no loss of protection.

I have a friend with a diesel who would do just that. He would take my 3,000 mile full synthetic Mobil 1 oil that I just drained, clean it (hardly) and then run it in his Ford.
Like you guys, I am a stickler for changing my oil and filter. Every 3,000 miles even with the newer engines/oils recommending 5k, I still stick with the “old method”.

 

[Just Fishing]

Talk about oil and filters.
Recommended purchase is an oil filter cutting tool.
This is the one i have.

Oil Filter Cutter Inspection Tool IMCA NHRA SBC Chevy | eBay

Oil Filter Cutter. If your filter has a protruding lip, you may have to clearance the cutter so that your filter easily rolls on the rollers. Quickly & easily open filter. Razor sharp cutting wheel.

www.ebay.com

it's pretty good, only complaint is with the Mobil 1 filters.
The body's are so thick, i get a slight roll over of the lip.
that sometimes gives me some trouble to pull the filter out of the body unless i grab some pliers and bend the lip out.

That thing saved my crank and possibly my block with my new build.
Told me something was possibly wrong, and to keep a close eye on it.

I don't think i had very long until my crank made contact with the block.

 

[iamdub]

... I'm not one for super high speeds, especially in this brick. I prefer quick acceleration over top speed. So I probably won't be doing this again.

LOL


Ran across this old post of mine while looking for some other info, and immediately thought of one of my many trips to Mexico:

 

[iamdub]

Replaced the aspirator fan- no more growling above my head!

 

[iamdub]

When I did my Big 3 (actually 4), I left all the factory grounds in place and just added the 1/0 to it. This meant my 1/0 was bypassing the RVC sensor. I fixed that today and upgraded it to a Big 5.

Factory grounds going through the RVC sensor:




The 1/0 fits with room to spare:




I wanted to upgrade the body sheet metal ground. My first attempt was to replace the flat braided ground on the driver side with the original 4 gauge main ground. But I couldn't unbolt it from the back of the left bank cylinder head so I just added the 4 gauge to the mix on the other side. I drilled a hole in the pinch of the cowl and bolted the 4 gauge and core support grounds to it using stainless 5/16" hardware. The 4 gauge goes to the factory location- the stud on the front edge of the right bank head:





This is now a Big 5:
1) Alternator to battery positive
2) Battery negative to frame
3) Engine block to frame
4) Body sheet metal to engine block
5) Battery positive to starter