Growing up doesn't have to suck

[Just Fishing]

I have been running those 22psi bypass, i like them very much


On a side note; i won't run the Mobil one filters any longer.
they bypass sucks from the bottom, and with the filter hanging straight down...


Wix filters bypass from the top, my new go-to.

also my filter opening tool is awesome, i'm learning so much.
and every wix filter i open, i get a little surprise inside!

What you might ask?
A coil spring that goes into my "might need it later for something" bin.

 

[iamdub]

When I fired it up in the garage to move it to the shop for the service, it had what sounded like a minor exhaust leak. Once in the shop, I popped the hood and inspected the manifold bolts- all there. Then I noticed the flange was missing a bolt:





Under it, I realized it was actually missing TWO of the three bolts:




These must seal really well cuz the tick wasn't very loud at all.

Since Doug Thorley sent two bags of hardware, gaskets, etc. with the headers, I had extra bolts to replace them. The exhaust pipe was also bumping the crossmember again even though I had adjusted the hanger at the last service. I now realize it was just sagging from all the extra slack. I raised the exhaust more by adjusting the hanger and supported the pipe even further with a wedge on top of the crossmember. When I tightened the bolts, the wedge fell out. It should be good from now on.

 

[iamdub]

I have been running those 22psi bypass, i like them very much


On a side note; i won't run the Mobil one filters any longer.
they bypass sucks from the bottom, and with the filter hanging straight down...


Wix filters bypass from the top, my new go-to.

also my filter opening tool is awesome, i'm learning so much.
and every wix filter i open, i get a little surprise inside!

What you might ask?
A coil spring that goes into my "might need it later for something" bin.

It's like a grease monkey's Cräcker Jack prize!

That's good to know about the WIX's bypass setup.

 

[OR VietVet]

View attachment 347611

Out with the old, in with the new!
No surprise, it was the high pressure hose. It was tricky getting that crazy-shaped hose connected on both ends. Nobody online can tell if they use 5/8th or 16mm. I just used an adjustable crescent wrench and crammed my long arms up in there from beneath the car.

No more leaks and I can steer again!

When I fired it up in the garage to move it to the shop for the service, it had what sounded like a minor exhaust leak. Once in the shop, I popped the hood and inspected the manifold bolts- all there. Then I noticed the flange was missing a bolt:

View attachment 347731



Under it, I realized it was actually missing TWO of the three bolts:

View attachment 347732


These must seal really well cuz the tick wasn't very loud at all.

Since Doug Thorley sent two bags of hardware, gaskets, etc. with the headers, I had extra bolts to replace them. The exhaust pipe was also bumping the crossmember again even though I had adjusted the hanger at the last service. I now realize it was just sagging from all the extra slack. I raised the exhaust more by adjusting the hanger and supported the pipe even further with a wedge on top of the crossmember. When I tightened the bolts, the wedge fell out. It should be good from now on.

Thankfully the one bolt sealed enough that false air was not being sucked in for the sensor to read and mess with fuel mixture.

Been using WIX for over 30 years and I have cut them open too. Cut open a FRAM at the time and the filter element had string tied around it at the middle to control the filter element bulge and if I remember right it had a very weak coiled flat steel spring that could easily be compressed fully with your thumb and two fingers. Many shops had displays of the comparisons of the filter quality. It was a no brainer for the vehicle customers in my shops.

 

[Just Fishing]

Thankfully the one bolt sealed enough that false air was not being sucked in for the sensor to read and mess with fuel mixture.

Been using WIX for over 30 years and I have cut them open too. Cut open a FRAM at the time and the filter element had string tied around it at the middle to control the filter element bulge and if I remember right it had a very weak coiled flat steel spring that could easily be compressed fully with your thumb and two fingers. Many shops had displays of the comparisons of the filter quality. It was a no brainer for the vehicle customers in my shops.

Yeah, i had an old fram filter on my shelf.
I cut it open to take a look...

Like i have seen videos of the filters opened, but to see how cheezy that filter is on person... lol

And the mobil 1 filters are built extremely well.
Hard to cut open, metal housing is much beefier than the wix.
The filter element is also harder to slice.

The spring on the bottom is a flat leaf type spring.
Pretty good overall imo.


I'll use mobile 1 on the wifes car moving forward.
Her filter sits on its side.

So with the wix, the bypass opens up at the lowest point.
The mobil 1, it opens at the bottom.

So at the middle of where crap might sit.

 

[alpha_omega]

It's like a grease monkey's Cräcker Jack prize!

That's good to know about the WIX's bypass setup.

I thought the K&N were better all around (psi and micron)?

Nevermind…I just answered my own question. Be quiet, be humble, admit when you’re wrong and learn something new. Damnit!
How did ACD, M1 and K&N lose out to Wix? Probably because they are all now manufactured in China?

 

[iamdub]

I thought the K&N were better all around (psi and micron)?
View attachment 347745
Nevermind…I just answered my own question. Be quiet, be humble, admit when you’re wrong and learn something new. Damnit!
How did ACD, M1 and K&N lose out to Wix? Probably because they are all now manufactured in China?

According to that chart, the K&N has a much better micron rating. I didn't even notice this when I was focused on finding a no-bypass or high-psi bypass filter.

There are some conflicting perspectives here. Assuming these figures are factual, which would you prefer? The filter that catches smaller particles but could more easily allow bypass (no filtration at all) or a filter that can't catch as small of particles, but still keeps the oil going through the filter?

How easily and/or often does a filter go into bypass? How small of particle is still okay to circulate through the engine?

BTW, according to the labels, the K&N HP-2011 filters I was using were made in USA.

 

[OR VietVet]

In the scheme of things and considering the possible damage of a by-pass problem, WIX IMO, wins hands down. For me it has served me well all those years and were on my Harley's as well. I still say also, that the time frame between changes is very important and should be less than any of the oil companies say. I consider all my driving as severe and still stick to a low mileage and short time between changes. It is, IMO, the cheapest insurance I can recommend to take care of the engine.

 

[Tonyrodz]

What's the importance of the oil filter bypass? And about the psi that the bypass opens?

 

[OR VietVet]

What's the importance of the oil filter bypass? And about the psi that the bypass opens?

Instead of a long typed response, here is the jest of it:

"The bypass valve – otherwise known as a pressure relief valve – is an integral part of the oil filter. The valve is designed to open when the oil filter becomes clogged or when the oil is too thick. This allows the oil to bypass the filter through a center tube. The oil then goes straight to the engine to prevent starvation and damage.
If the bypass valve doesn’t open when needed, the filter will swell and eventually burst. When this happens, the engine looses all oil pressure. The end result is either extensive engine damage, or complete engine failure. Choosing a high-quality oil filter for your vehicle helps to prevent this from happening."

But remember, if it does open and it does bypass, the filtration is lost but if the filter is clogged enough to allow bypass, it is not filtering anyway.