Growing up doesn't have to suck

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Tonyrodz

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Made a "1 year and 23 minutes later" comparison video. I only listened to the two back-to-back one time, but I didn't detect much difference in the sound. It definitely started sounding better inside the cabin after a few hundred miles. As of this video, the muffler has just under 6,000 miles on it.

Still sounds good, and still loving the declads :D:waytogo:
 

Tonyrodz

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Thank ya! I'm itching to lower it but I think I should wait until after I delete the AFM. I'm pretty sure the declads will be satin black really soon after it's lowered.
Personally, I like the natural aluminum color. Gotta see them in satin black.
 

Sam Harris

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Thank ya! I'm itching to lower it but I think I should wait until after I delete the AFM. I'm pretty sure the declads will be satin black really soon after it's lowered.
Noooooo!! They look perfect as is.
 

Rocket Man

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And when I'm ready to swing back a little towards classiness, I wanna step it up to 22" Denali reps in gloss black. Maybe you'll be tired of yours on The Beast around that time? :D
Who knows? They were originally meant to be my Winter rims. I wish Id just went with 24’s, a compromise.
 
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iamdub

iamdub

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Did a full brake job.

The front pads were worn to the squealer tabs and rotors were worn so much they had a ridge about 2mm high around the outer edges. I'm really disappointed in the cryo-tempered StopTech rotors. Maybe the Hawk LTS pads are too aggressive for them? Oh well, I got 50K miles out of them. I kept my original front rotors so I just had them resurfaced since they had plenty left above the minimum thickness spec. The rear pads still had a decent amount of life left, but I wanted them all to be new and matching. I pulled the rear rotors Tuesday evening to drop them off Wednesday to get resurfaced. Behind both rotors, I found the brake dust caked and wet around the seals. It hadn't gotten to the emergency brake shoes. So I added new axle seals to the job, which also meant a rear diff fluid change. I bought new bearings, but didn't change them since I found the current ones had been replaced before with good, USA-made pieces ("National" brand, and the same as what I bought) and had no detectable slack. I returned them to save the $93. I flushed the system through all calipers until the fluid coming out was as clear as the fresh fluid in the reservoir. I also cleaned and re-greased the caliper slide pins and greased all moving contact points with synthetic brake grease.

I started on it all Wednesday night after work around 8:00 and finished around 4:30 Thursday morning. Parts list is as follows:

Front pads: ACDelco 14D1092CH Ceramic, with stainless retaining clips, $23.79 from Amazon

Rear pads: ACDelco 14D1194CH Ceramic, with stainless retaining clips, $25.77 from Amazon

Front rotors: Stock resurfaced, $28.00 at local mechanic shop

Rear rotors: Stock resurfaced, $28.00 at local mechanic shop

Front drag-reduction clips: ACDelco 18K1025SS, $12.70 from RockAuto

Rear drag-reduction clips: Raybestos H6027, $4.56 from Amazon

Brake fluid: Valvoline synthetic DOT 3 & 4, $7.25 (x2) at Advance Auto

Rear gear oil: Mobil1 Synthetic 75W-90, $14.29 (x2) at Advance Auto

Axle seals: National 4762N, $7.69 (x2) at O'Reilly Auto

Rear diff cover gasket: Fel-Pro RDS55031, $14.29 at O'Reilly Auto

Total: $208.76


I went for a drive Friday evening to bed in the brakes. I did a fluid flush during the last brake job 50K miles ago and the fluid coming out wasn't all that bad, so I didn't expect much difference in pedal feel other than what the ceramics would bring. I did notice slightly more response and, of course, no squealing and no shaking/bucking when stopping. It's no performance braking system, but it's all I was aiming for this time around to scratch an item off my to-do list. Actually, it scratches off two items since the rear diff oil got replaced.
 
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