Growing up doesn't have to suck

[swathdiver]

I know I'm in the minority but I think that TSP camshaft is too big for a 5.3 without losing street manors. Talk to Blackbear about it. Don't know much about converters used in the 4-speeds, just make sure you aren't giving anything up by switching to something else.

 

[Onebad1983]

As it sits, it's just the block and rotating assembly. I'm not cracking that apart since then it'd turn into an all-out rebuild. My objective was strictly to delete the AFM parts and reseal it. I wanted to spend the least amount of money and effort on a 200K-mile 5.3 since a 6.0 or 6.2 is my goal.

Of course, I couldn't leave well enough alone. I'm having the heads cleaned, valve stems and valve springs replaced with stock LS6 springs and a cleaning shave done on the mating surface. Since they'll be getting shaved, it won't cost any more to take off a little more to at least get the chambers to the advertised spec of 64cc since they're commonly around 66cc actual volume. For a few more dollars, the guy will clean up/mildly port the runners to improve a few minor factory shortcomings and blend in the bowls, do a valve job, hone the guides and set up the springs. I had this service done on some Z06 243s and they gained 32cfm. Since the heads can be used elsewhere or sold separately from the 5.3, I'm allowing their re-working into the budget. For the resulting mildly raised compression, and many other factors, I've already budgeted for a Black Bear tune and I have an AutoCal already (craigslist score).

Buuuuuuut, last week, a buddy offered me a virtually new TSP Stage 2 Low Lift cam for $100. Since I'm already getting a tune, a cam would be covered, so of course I jumped on it. Cams like this work better with compression around 10.5 or higher, and I was already raising it some with the shaved heads. Rather than shave more, I decided it'd be better to get thinner head gaskets. This part kinda sucks since they're $80 EACH when the stock MLS gaskets are $50 for the pair and I already have them. But, considering that I'm saving $300 on the cam, the $110 extra cost is still a bargain. Between the cam, higher compression, better head flow and tune, I'm (conservatively?) expecting around 400HP/400TQ at the crank with no sacrifices anywhere in the rev range. That's 80HP and 60TQ for $210. Since mines FlexFuel, I may have it tuned on E85. I don't see why I shouldn't- it's "free" power that I'm leaving on the table otherwise. When E85 isn't available, I'll run 93 just as I've always done. I have some questions for Black Bear...

Knew this was coming....

 

[iamdub]

I know I'm in the minority but I think that TSP camshaft is too big for a 5.3 without losing street manors. Talk to Blackbear about it. Don't know much about converters used in the 4-speeds, just make sure you aren't giving anything up by switching to something else.

I have quite a few hours into researching these cams and converter options. But there's always more education to be found!

All reports I'm seeing is that the cam doesn't sacrifice any power anywhere. The idle might be a little choppy for a street truck, but that can be tamed or exaggerated in the tune. I actually may have BB leave some chop in it. This is a weekend toy so I'm wanting to dial more fun into it.

Having the lowly 4-speed is one of the reasons I'm considering a converter. The stock converter from the Trailblazer with the I-6 stalls to around 2600 +/- behind a 5.3. This should be perfect for my setup, intended use and desired feel. Circle D rebuilds them with a better lockup clutch, which was my main concern for the aftermarket rebuilt ones.

 

[iamdub]

Knew this was coming....

I'm just glad SOMETHING more than a stock build is happening!

 

[wjburken]

I'm just glad SOMETHING more than a stock build is happening!

I’m glad there are people like you on here that allow me to live vicariously through them as they do things to there vehicles that my wife would never let me do to hers.

 

[iamdub]

I’m glad there are people like you on here that allow me to live vicariously through them as they do things to there vehicles that my wife would never let me do to hers.

Well then, sir, I'll surely keep it as updated and detailed as possible!

 

[swathdiver]

I have quite a few hours into researching these cams...

All reports I'm seeing is that the cam doesn't sacrifice any power anywhere.

I've seen dyno pulls with electric water pumps and long tube headers but never seen a before and after chassis dyno or time slips from the drag strip. Haven't looked in about a year though.

 

[iamdub]

I've seen dyno pulls with electric water pumps and long tube headers but never seen a before and after chassis dyno or time slips from the drag strip. Haven't looked in about a year though.

Yeah, so many variables with chassis dynos and time slips, most of which nobody mentions. So you pretty much are limited to engine dynos and those numbers are always high because of the open exhaust and electric accessories. I focused more on the gains instead of the actual numbers because those are excessively inflated.

Regardless, I feel I'll be much happier with it's overall performance with the raised compression, converter and tune.

 

[iamdub]

Was too busy to touch it Saturday, but had a few hours to hit it on Sunday.

Started by rolling it outside to do the dirty work. Turned the block sideways on the stand, stuck a donut magnet to the AFM towers and tapped the galleys with a 3/8"-16 tap dipped in axle grease. This size is ideal since you don't have to drill them- the galleys are already the right size for this tap and the iron taps really easily. Before I removed the magnet, I slid it in circles around the hole to catch more shavings:




Blew the tapped galleys out from the inside with my high-flow blow gun, sprayed them with brake cleaner, then another blast from the gun. When I rolled the engine over to do the other towers, I did so that they faced downward so if there was any speck of loose metal, it would fall out instead of in:



Used a razor to scrape off the gasket residues (amidoinitright?):



Used plastic buffing wheels, engine degreaser, brake cleaner and compressed air to finish cleaning the mating surfaces and block. I wiped the cylinders and mating surfaces with light oil to prevent flash rust. Sanitary lifter chamber and bores:

 

[iamdub]

I painted the block with some Rustoleum "Cast Iron" color high-temp spray paint. I wasn't sure what color I wanted it, just something other than black to help make spotting leaks easier and to give it a fresh look. But when I found this paint at a discount store for $2.99 each, my color decision was made.

After the paint dried, I removed the masking and rolled it back into the shop to plug the AFM towers. I used eight of these set screws from Lowe's or Home Depot and red Loctite, torqued to 2.5 grunts.




Freshly-tapped and cleaned holes is a satisfying sight, and the plugs screwed in smoothly:



Painted block:



I didn't bother to remove the crank sensor, but removed the knock sensors to ensure the metal underneath was clean and free of any corrosion and masked them before painting: