Growing up doesn't have to suck

[kbuskill]

I guess I missed it, what is this alternator off of? What is your intention with the clutch? And I assume this is higher amperage or else you wouldn't be fooling around with it.

 

[swathdiver]

I guess I missed it, what is this alternator off of? What is your intention with the clutch? And I assume this is higher amperage or else you wouldn't be fooling around with it.

Yeah, I'm late to the party as well, but what is the goal here?

RPO KG3 is for a 145 Amp alternator. 20881337.

RPO KW1 is for a 160 Amp alternator. 25877026.

My pickups have 145s and my Yukon XL has the 160.

Of course, they all are made to fit the "truck" accessory drive.

 

[iamdub]

I guess I missed it, what is this alternator off of? What is your intention with the clutch? And I assume this is higher amperage or else you wouldn't be fooling around with it.

Yeah, I'm late to the party as well, but what is the goal here?

RPO KG3 is for a 145 Amp alternator. 20881337.

RPO KW1 is for a 160 Amp alternator. 25877026.

My pickups have 145s and my Yukon XL has the 160.

Of course, they all are made to fit the "truck" accessory drive.

This new alternator is off of a '19 with the 2.7L turbo I4 with the KW5 RPO for high-output (220A) alternator. It also fits the '20 and '21 Cadillac CT4 and CT5 with the turbo I4. There are a few variations of these 220A models. I went off the seller's description, mentioning a different part number and jumped the gun because it has only 6,000 miles and supposedly was the correct fitment.

I wasn't specifically shopping for one with a clutch. Actually, I had never looked into the clutch stuff until all this began. I actually like the idea of it with my engine turning 6,000+ RPM with quick drops from fast upshifts. The problem is that it's yet another wear item that can lead to weak or no charging due to the pulley freewheeling if the clutch failed just so. There are two types- a decoupler that basically works like a ratchet and a clutch that has a torsion spring spec'ed for the vehicle the alternator will be on. I'm not worried about clutch failure. Getting one with low mileage and the fact that I don't drive much convinces me this will likely never be a problem for me.

My original DR44 (160A) alt seems to be working fine. But, after the recent small subwoofer install which lead to the demise of the abused 5-year-old battery, I had to get a new battery and upgrade the alt while I was doing electrical things. I was looking at $400+ for a 250A MechMan when @Doubeleive turned me onto these factory 220A alts that can be had for as little as $100 on eBay.

The correct ones are plug-and-play. Due to that seller's incorrect description in their eBay listing, I just got one of the 220A variants with a case designed to bolt up to a totally different style of bracket.

 

[89Suburban]

This new alternator is off of a '19 with the 2.7L turbo I4 with the KW5 RPO for high-output (220A) alternator. It also fits the '20 and '21 Cadillac CT4 and CT5 with the turbo I4. There are a few variations of these 220A models. I went off the seller's description, mentioning a different part number and jumped the gun because it has only 6,000 miles and supposedly was the correct fitment.

I wasn't specifically shopping for one with a clutch. Actually, I had never looked into the clutch stuff until all this began. I actually like the idea of it with my engine turning 6,000+ RPM with quick drops from fast upshifts. The problem is that it's yet another wear item that can lead to weak or no charging due to the pulley freewheeling if the clutch failed just so. There are two types- a decoupler that basically works like a ratchet and a clutch that has a torsion spring spec'ed for the vehicle the alternator will be on. I'm not worried about clutch failure. Getting one with low mileage and the fact that I don't drive much convinces me this will likely never be a problem for me.

My original DR44 (160A) alt seems to be working fine. But, after the recent small subwoofer install which lead to the demise of the abused 5-year-old battery, I had to get a new battery and upgrade the alt while I was doing electrical things. I was looking at $400+ for a 250A MechMan when @Doubeleive turned me onto these factory 220A alts that can be had for as little as $100 on eBay.

The correct ones are plug-and-play. Due to that seller's incorrect description in their eBay listing, I just got one of the 220A variants with a case designed to bolt up to a totally different style of bracket.

 

[iamdub]

I ain't sweatin' it any more. Gonna return this one and reinstall my original and keep an eye out for a CONFIRMED correct 220A unit. As long as there are cell phones and entitled front left passengers, there will not be a shortage of totaled late model carcasses to pick from.

 

[kbuskill]

This new alternator is off of a '19 with the 2.7L turbo I4 with the KW5 RPO for high-output (220A) alternator. It also fits the '20 and '21 Cadillac CT4 and CT5 with the turbo I4. There are a few variations of these 220A models. I went off the seller's description, mentioning a different part number and jumped the gun because it has only 6,000 miles and supposedly was the correct fitment.

I wasn't specifically shopping for one with a clutch. Actually, I had never looked into the clutch stuff until all this began. I actually like the idea of it with my engine turning 6,000+ RPM with quick drops from fast upshifts. The problem is that it's yet another wear item that can lead to weak or no charging due to the pulley freewheeling if the clutch failed just so. There are two types- a decoupler that basically works like a ratchet and a clutch that has a torsion spring spec'ed for the vehicle the alternator will be on. I'm not worried about clutch failure. Getting one with low mileage and the fact that I don't drive much convinces me this will likely never be a problem for me.

My original DR44 (160A) alt seems to be working fine. But, after the recent small subwoofer install which lead to the demise of the abused 5-year-old battery, I had to get a new battery and upgrade the alt while I was doing electrical things. I was looking at $400+ for a 250A MechMan when @Doubeleive turned me onto these factory 220A alts that can be had for as little as $100 on eBay.

The correct ones are plug-and-play. Due to that seller's incorrect description in their eBay listing, I just got one of the 220A variants with a case designed to bolt up to a totally different style of bracket.

I see, so what is the correct part number that bolts right up? And what does it come off of?

I'm guessing maybe a 3500 Silvy?

 

[Geotrash]

I ain't sweatin' it any more. Gonna return this one and reinstall my original and keep an eye out for a CONFIRMED correct 220A unit. As long as there are cell phones and entitled front left passengers, there will not be a shortage of totaled late model carcasses to pick from.

What about something like this?

A-Team Performance - GM AD244 Style High Output 220 Amp Alternator Black - Compatible with Chevrolet BBC SBC GM Diesel https://a.co/d/dTr7CAw

 

[kbuskill]

What about something like this?

A-Team Performance - GM AD244 Style High Output 220 Amp Alternator Black - Compatible with Chevrolet BBC SBC GM Diesel https://a.co/d/dTr7CAw

Nice alternator but that is the 4 pin version and is not compatible with the 2 pin computer controlled version the GMT900s use, unfortunately.

 

[iamdub]

I see, so what is the correct part number that bolts right up? And what does it come off of?

I'm guessing maybe a 3500 Silvy?

I believe 13534128 is one of the ones that will bolt and plug up. There are at least two that will. I think the differences are the pulley- standard, decoupler and clutch. It might be on the 3500. But definitely on the 1500. Whatever had the KW5 RPO.

 

[iamdub]

What about something like this?

A-Team Performance - GM AD244 Style High Output 220 Amp Alternator Black - Compatible with Chevrolet BBC SBC GM Diesel https://a.co/d/dTr7CAw

Pretty good price for a 220A alt. But, as Ken said, it's for the older gens. Speaking of, another reason I like the ones off the newer models is that they're a 6-phase design. More output at idle and more efficient overall.