Heater blowing cold air drivers side

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Txlady_65

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I've gotten a lit of helpful information on this forum so I'm hoping maybe I can get some help/advice for my problem.

This is my first post but ive learned a lot from reading posts so im hoping to get some advice.

I have a 2005 GMC Yukon SLE with the 4.8 motor in it. I took it to a mechanic last week because I had been having some problems with the ac and heater on the driver's side and I didn't know how to fix it. Mine has the manual climate control. During the winter, the driver's side heater would only blow cold air. And you could hear a clicking coming from behind the vents. I figured it was the drivers side actuator but at the time couldn't afford to get it fixed. Took it to the mechanic and he says it's the actuator on the drivers side. I said ok I need to get that fixed. When I went to pick it up he tells me my climate control module is going bad. But he fixed everything I asked him to. Im thinking he didnt fix it cause if he did what he said he would have seen the heater was still blowing cold air. Anyway, I've never had a problem with the module so not sure. I said ok can't afford to get it fixed right now. I leave and get up the next morning needing to use the defroster and to my surprise Still no heat on the driver side. I get to work and call the mechanic and tell him I still have no heat. He said to bring it in Monday for them to take a look so I am taking it in Monday morning to have them check it out.

My question is, can the climate control module cause one side to only blow hot or cold? Or is it Possible he didn't even change the actuator and just said he did. I don't normally take my vehicles to mechanics because most of the ones around where I live are Very dishonest and try to get over things especially when it comes to a woman.

I just need some advice or ideas of what might could be the problem before i go up there and argue with this guy for not fixing something he was paid to do. . Cause I just paid this guy a $1000 to fix a couple of things on my car. His labor prices were outrageous in my opinion. Example: $250 labor to change spark plus and wires. Said it took 2 hours. Don't know about that.

Anyways, can anybody offer some help. Thank you!
 

Scottydoggs

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250 for plugs and wires is not all that bad, if they supplied the plugs and wires. wires are like 100 bucks and plugs are also about 100 these days.

i had the same issue with the heat or cold working right with that clicking under the dash. i swapped out the actuator and all is well. if the climate control its self is going bad you can buy a used one off ebay and swap that your self pretty easy. pull the trim off the dash and unscrew the CC and pull it out, then un plug it. done.
 

Joseph Garcia

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Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving clarifying questions from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

Do you own or have access to a quality bi-directional scanner? The scanner could help you troubleshoot your issue, and in all probability direct you to the source of your issue.

@swathdiver may have some suggestions for you.
 
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Txlady_65

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The $250 was just for labor on the plugs and wires. He supplied the parts so in all it was $387 just for that.


250 for plugs and wires is not all that bad, if they supplied the plugs and wires. wires are like 100 bucks and plugs are also about 100 these days.

i had the same issue with the heat or cold working right with that clicking under the dash. i swapped out the actuator and all is well. if the climate control its self is going bad you can buy a used one off ebay and swap that your self pretty easy. pull the trim off the dash and unscrew the CC and pull it out, then un plug it. done.
 
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Txlady_65

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Is there still a clicking in the dash? If yes then it is not the control module. Modules don't click.
No there's no clicking in the dash right now but it quit clicking after it got stuck on cold air for the heater several months ago. I had another garage check it out and tell me it was the actuator but they were booked for weeks so I went with this guy because he came recommended from some friends. I just feel like he didn't make sure it was working after replacing it because you would have known the heat wasn't blowing. I spent all the money I had getting these few things fixed. Just feel like I was taken advantage of.
 
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Txlady_65

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Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving clarifying questions from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

Do you own or have access to a quality bi-directional scanner? The scanner could help you troubleshoot your issue, and in all probability direct you to the source of your issue.

@swathdiver may have some suggestions for you.
Thank you.

No. I don't have a scanner yet but I think that might be a good investment.

Could you or someone recommend one.
 

Scottydoggs

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The $250 was just for labor on the plugs and wires. He supplied the parts so in all it was $387 just for that.
cant see a tune up being 2 hrs. time to wait for that other shop to have a opening, or some one else.
 

Joseph Garcia

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Thank you.

No. I don't have a scanner yet but I think that might be a good investment.

Could you or someone recommend one.
For your truck, you could get a Tech 2 (Chinese knockoff of the original GM Mechanic's scanner, but they work just fine), but that architecture was changed after 2013, so an Autel scanner would probably be a better strategic purchase, as they can be used on vehicles newer than the 2013 model year. Just be sure that it is bi-directional, so that you can give troubleshooting commands to the truck through the scanner (not just use it as a dummy display tool). Budget around $500 for this tool, but it will most likely pay for itself in the first year or two of use.
 

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