Help! 07 Yukon died on side of road!

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M3kanic

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I know the one in my Denali (2010) is about half of the tru cool.

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Paul Brambilla

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Wow, that thing is tiny. So here is what I decided to do... I'm just not risking that pass until I fully understand what's wrong. I'm having someone else pull the trailer home and my poor Yukon will have to watch the big boy truck pull it with ease!

When I get home I'll try insulating the fuel lines. I'll also probably upgrade the transmission cooler, but I doubt that has anything to do with this issue but it should be done anyway.

Any other suggestions?

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Paul Brambilla

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Alright guys my driver never showed so I hooked the trailer back up and I'm just about to hit Snoqualmie Pass. If you don't hear from me again check the Seattle local news for a devastating RV crash over the mountain!

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08grey

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Alright guys my driver never showed so I hooked the trailer back up and I'm just about to hit Snoqualmie Pass. If you don't hear from me again check the Seattle local news for a devastating RV crash over the mountain!

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Good luck. Definitely consider the tranny cooler. Easy upgrade.

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kbuskill

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You don't think the stock transmission cooler in the Denali is good enough?

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No.... I am sure it is probably the same one that came on my 2008 Suburban LTZ and its rather small. I had a bigger one and just added it in series with the factory cooler so now it has about the same surface area as the true cool 40K.
 

mixup52

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How many miles do you have on it?

I personally don't think its fuel related.

Here is what is happening:

You're cruising at freeway speeds, your motor is warmed up and your oil is heated, pulling a trailer is only making matters worse.

As your oil is heat and thinner, your high mileage motor camshaft bearing are worn. Our vehicle cam timing is controlled by oil pressure, so traveling with the oil pressure up and then pulling over, there is not enough pressure to "retard" the timing. Cause of the worn cam bearings. So now your timing is advanced as if you were going 70 mph.

When you let it cool off, the oil was able to have enough viscosity to increase the pressure to allow it to adjust the cam to were it needs to be to start the vehicle.

I have spent the last 2 years trying to figure what the problem was. My vehicle has 215K on it with no work done to it.

This will also happen when you are cruising on the freeway and then exit, come to a light or to a stop sign and then die on you.
I have had this happen to me a lot times. Before I fixed it, I would have to double foot my peddles (one on the brake while still applying some gas). I would never let my wife drive my vehicle like this.

If you want to verify that it is doing what I am stating, drive up some hard inclines to get the motor working and then come to a stop, if it wont hold an idle and dies and will not restart for about 20-30 mins, then that is your problem.

I found any easy fix for it. Just let me know if you'd like to know or if you guys think I'm up in the night.
 

M3kanic

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Why wouldn't you just post the fix on here?

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08grey

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We all want to know the fix you found.

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mixup52

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Here is what I have been using and it has made a big difference.

I used to get the p0011 code, associated with this issue. I though why not give it a try. I have used this as directed and have not had any issues since.

https://lucasoil.com/products/engine-oil-additives/pure-synthetic-oil-stabilizer

I use the synthetic cause obviously I use synthetic oil. 4 qts or mobile 1 and 1 qt of Lucasoil.

In the past year, I have not had any issues and my CEL turned off due to the p0011 code (camshaft intake position).

Hope this helps.

The other option is to have your motor rebuilt, but I'm not ready for that.
 

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