*HELP* Integrated Trailer Brakes 2011 GMC Yukon Denali *HELP*

[wjburken]

For purposes of testing, could I possibly ground the the 7 pin electric brake pin (5 o'clock position) to the ground pin (7 o'clock position) or connect to the 12v + pin (1 o'clock position) to see if I get a change of state on the instrument cluster? Don't have my trailer handy to hook up to test so I wanted to see if it would be possible to run a manual test.

I bought one of these when I was trying to run down some issues. Might be handy to get one. Various options out there.

 

[bfourman]

Mine works great and they are even better on the 2012+ with software improvements like Trailer Sway Control.

Which begs the question, can 07-11 be flashed with 12+ software to gain sway control and the other upgrades, either dealer or aftermarket (BB, HPTuner, etc)?

 

[swathdiver]

Which begs the question, can 07-11 be flashed with 12+ software to gain sway control and the other upgrades, either dealer or aftermarket (BB, HPTuner, etc)?

I think so but don't know for sure yet, or how to do it. The dealer surely won't/can't but a guy with a Tech-2 and a subscription to TDS and some VINs might. It's on my list of things to do but nowhere near the top.

 

[swathdiver]

Thanks for the update! To clarify, are the bundled 5 wires under the left part of the dash used exclusively for the installation of an aftermarket controller or possibly they need to be terminated for the factory ITBC to function? Also, I did remove the lower driver's side dash panel and found that the ITBC was connected to the factory harness. In addition, with my car trailer connected or not connected, I don't see the gain values popping up on the dash though the trailer lights work and aux power to the trailer is present. Thanks!

The bundle is for an aftermarket controller. Are you connecting with a 4 pin or 7 pin and does your trailer have compatible brakes?

 

[swathdiver]

For purposes of testing, could I possibly ground the the 7 pin electric brake pin (5 o'clock position) to the ground pin (7 o'clock position) or connect to the 12v + pin (1 o'clock position) to see if I get a change of state on the instrument cluster? Don't have my trailer handy to hook up to test so I wanted to see if it would be possible to run a manual test.

Offhand I do not know.

 

[JM13206]

For purposes of testing,

I bought one of these when I was trying to run down some issues. Might be handy to get one. Various options out there.

View attachment 230937 View attachment 230938

Ordered the tester this morning. Thanks!

 

[JM13206]

This afternoon, I hooked up my Fluke volt meter between the trailer connector brake pin and ground pin. With the key on, engine off, I received the same voltage reading that was varying between 3.65 VDC and 4.3 VDC when applying the integrated manual electric brake lever, apply the brakes, and with all components at rest. When plugging in the LED tester, the electric brake LED is slightly flickering at all times which aligns to varying low voltage signal. I did take the trailer plug apart but didn't find any issues. Being the parts are fairly cheap, should I go ahead and order a new ACDelco 20904439 Trailer Brake Continue Relay Assembly and ACDelco 15926102 Brake Control Switch Assembly off of Amazon? Also, there are no error messages or trouble codes present in the 2010 Tahoe.

 

[swathdiver]

This afternoon, I hooked up my Fluke volt meter between the trailer connector brake pin and ground pin. With the key on, engine off, I received the same voltage reading that was varying between 3.65 VDC and 4.3 VDC when applying the integrated manual electric brake lever, apply the brakes, and with all components at rest. When plugging in the LED tester, the electric brake LED is slightly flickering at all times which aligns to varying low voltage signal. I did take the trailer plug apart but didn't find any issues. Being the parts are fairly cheap, should I go ahead and order a new ACDelco 20904439 Trailer Brake Continue Relay Assembly and ACDelco 15926102 Brake Control Switch Assembly off of Amazon? Also, there are no error messages or trouble codes present in the 2010 Tahoe.

View attachment 231562 View attachment 231563 View attachment 231564 View attachment 231565

I replaced my SSR relay and the intermittent codes/warning on the DIC finally went away. I was also going to replace the J-case fuse but cannot find where I put the new ones and the puller, yet! I doubt that you need the controller on the kick panel but like you said, they are not expensive to have around.

 

[JM13206]

I replaced my SSR relay and the intermittent codes/warning on the DIC finally went away. I was also going to replace the J-case fuse but cannot find where I put the new ones and the puller, yet! I doubt that you need the controller on the kick panel but like you said, they are not expensive to have around.

This afternoon, I lowered the spare tire and did not find ACDelco Trailer Brake Continue Relay P/N 20904439. I did remove the large connector on the trailer brake module which is located above the spare tire, but found the pins looked good with no corrosion. I also, popped out the 7 pin trailer connector and everything looks fine. In addition, I installed a new GM Trailer Brake Control Switch P/N/ 15926102 and in moving the manual brake lever with the Tahoe started and in gear, the trailer brakes did not engage nor did the display panel indicate that the trailer was connected. As noted in my previous posting, the trailer brake pin in the 7 pin connector has a small varying voltage between 3.65 VDC and 4.3 VDC at all times. No codes displayed, The Tahoe just won't recognize that the trailer is connected. I did plug in the trailer tester and everything else is work even the constant power for the trailer emergency brake battery charger. Not sure if the tester really simulates a trailer connected for testing the electric brake system so could I possibly ground the electric brake pin or install a resistor, or do something else to simulate a connected trailer? Did have this trailer connected to my friend's 2014 Chevy Silverado recently where the integrated brake controller recognized that the trailer was connected.

 

[swathdiver]

This afternoon, I lowered the spare tire and did not find ACDelco Trailer Brake Continue Relay P/N 20904439. I did remove the large connector on the trailer brake module which is located above the spare tire, but found the pins looked good with no corrosion. I also, popped out the 7 pin trailer connector and everything looks fine. In addition, I installed a new GM Trailer Brake Control Switch P/N/ 15926102 and in moving the manual brake lever with the Tahoe started and in gear, the trailer brakes did not engage nor did the display panel indicate that the trailer was connected. As noted in my previous posting, the trailer brake pin in the 7 pin connector has a small varying voltage between 3.65 VDC and 4.3 VDC at all times. No codes displayed, The Tahoe just won't recognize that the trailer is connected. I did plug in the trailer tester and everything else is work even the constant power for the trailer emergency brake battery charger. Not sure if the tester really simulates a trailer connected for testing the electric brake system so could I possibly ground the electric brake pin or install a resistor, or do something else to simulate a connected trailer? Did have this trailer connected to my friend's 2014 Chevy Silverado recently where the integrated brake controller recognized that the trailer was connected.

In the picture posted above, there are two wires attached to the left stud. Can you tell me where these go/come from? There's only supposed to be one wire on that post that I'm aware of.