Help me prepare for my motor swap.

[tRidiot]

Ok, so I was pretty confused for a bit when researching this fuel pump. Using the Esky or Yukon I can look at the 6.0, but it shows a different fuel pump - with 3 fuel line/hose connections, a flat 4-prong connector and flat 3-prong connector... Delphi part FG0808. This is the same pump as the gas (non Flex) version of the 5.3L.

But on the 5.3, the Flex fuel option has 2 fuel line/hose connections, a square 4-prong connector and flat 3-prong connector... Delphi part FG0810.

These pumps show similar, though not identical flow rates and PSI.

So my assumption (dangerous, I know) is I should get the Flex fuel because I am using the fuel rails and such off my 5.3L for the new 6.0L, and of course because the connections will match up at the tank. Again, the intake and fuel setup from the Flex fuel 5.3L will work fine with the 6.0L even though it wasn't offered with a Flex fuel option? I'm just double-checking this, as that's what I've been told earlier in this thread or the other one I made.


I think it's pretty clear, but I'm putting this here for the 5.3L and 6.0L also for future generations that may search for this topic.

 

[mattt]

Yes the flex fuel pump FG0810 is the one you want to get. That is what your Tahoe is plumbed and wired for. It's no problem running the FF intake setup on the 6.0. You are actually better off if my research is correct because the FF vehicle has higher capacity # injectors vs. the standard 5.3 and 6.0.

When your ECU is tuned for the 6.0 all should be well, but from what i hear the 6.0 will run within parameters on a stock 5.3 tune.

I'm doing the same 6.0 swap on my 04 Tahoe Z71 w/ L59 engine as well. I am looking at swapping fuel pumps to the later 05-06 fuel pump though because I'm also converting to a NNBS/TBSS intake which has no return line. That 05-06 fuel pump has no return line provision either. Just gotta figure out if changing from the 04 fuel pump to the 05-06 is feasible, not sure if the pump regulating the fuel pressure/return is all contained within the pump itself or if it's done by the ECU.

 

[tRidiot]

Yeah my ECU already has a stock Escalade tune for the 6.0 on it. I went ahead and bought the fuel pump... I don't know if I NEED it, but since I am going on a 2500 mile trip in 3 weeks, I don't want to get screwed by being cheap.

 

[iamdub]

Been busy for the past few days. You did right by getting the stock replacement pump for your vehicle. With FF versus non-FF, the difference is volume. The FF vehicles have higher volume ("higher flow") injectors since it takes a larger amount of the ethanol gasoline to match the energy level of regular gasoline. You need a pump capable of pushing a higher volume of fuel while maintaining the necessary system pressures. Yes, you can make the 6.0 a FF engine by slapping your stock intake manifold onto it.

Keeping everything "stock" is ideal in your situation. You're basically keeping everything you had before, just getting .7 more liters.

 

[tRidiot]

So everything is delivered to my installer, I've been up there a couple times this week (it's a 45 minute drive or so) and as of Thursday night when I dropped off my last parts - fuel pump, knock sensor harness and belt tensioner - he had the motor in the bay with the new motor mounts installed. It was much easier to slide in with the intake manifold not installed (compared to removing the old one intact) he said, which I can imagine.

The motor wasn't bolted up, it was semi-suspended and tilted back because the transmission wasn't in yet. He is supposed to be picking that up today and the spending tonight and tomorrow and Monday getting things all installed and the niggly fiddly bits like all the connectors, wiring harness, etc.

It's exciting! I'm almost there!

Only thing left is the new cluster, which shows it SHOULD be delivered USPS Priority on Monday. I'll take that up Monday night or Tuesday night and we should be able to fire it up... my old cluster the oil pressure gauge didn't ever work right, I'm assuming a stepper motor problem - or more remote possibility the oil pressure sensor on the top posterior of the motor. This has been changed now, as well. But he was leery of firing it up without a known working oil pressure indicator (with good reason) and was talking about tapping into the new sensor and just having a temporary gauge to make sure it was circulating. I didn't want to jury-rig anything, so that helped me make the decision to go ahead and order a new cluster from Digital Dash Solutions (www.fixmyguages.com) which they got shipped out the next day, thank goodness.

So it looks like possibly Monday or Tuesday, or worst case later in the week or weekend, if things get complicated, I should have my Tahoe back! Didn't think I'd get tired of driving my 370Z, but I really do love the room and comfort of my big black baby! It's been 5 1/2 months and I'm READY! Not to mention the stereo in my Tahoe is better than the Z. HLCDs and dual heavy duty midbasses make it a helluva lot nicer, not to mention 7.5kW (1.21 GIGAWATTS! Great Scott!) of power.

thanks to everyone here for being patient enough to help me figure out all the little things I needed for this swap, it's been a massive help.

Oh, and just for anyone who's wondering - I'm at exactly $7100 right now, figuring $1500 for my installer's time and labor. May have a few more little things to do, but that's the number at the moment. That includes the new cluster, fuel pump, water pump, sensors, transmission rebuild ($1k), 6.0 motor with ECU program and shipping ($2840).

OUCH!

 

[fasteddy]

Good Progress!
Sounds like you should be done by the end of the week!
You're gonna love it. Even stock, the 6.0L has so much more torque than a 5.3 to pull that 5000lbs,
and spin your three alternators.

$7100? Not bad for whole new power train. Better than spending $60K-$85K on a new one.

 

[tRidiot]

Saw my installer today at another friend's house, he has the motor and trans in - needs to put on the intake and do all the fiddlies and swap my fuel pump. Prolly gonna be Tuesday he says (2 days). I was hoping for tomorrow, but Tuesday works.

 

[fasteddy]

Saw my installer today at another friend's house, he has the motor and trans in - needs to put on the intake and do all the fiddlies and swap my fuel pump. Prolly gonna be Tuesday he says (2 days). I was hoping for tomorrow, but Tuesday works.

Pictures would have been nice.

I didn't push on this add on because of current back order situations, but long tube headers add a decent amount of TQ to these engines.
The only stainless ones I've seen go on easy with a catless Y-pipe are speed engineering ones....but back ordered til July for the whole kit.
They have the long tubes but you'd have to find someone to fab the rest.
Its a great deal for $400.00.....but ETA now is 7/9

https://speed-engineering.com/shop-...suv-longtube-headers-y-pipe-1999-2006-m2.html

Have your mech check fuel pressure after the pump install.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Pictures would have been nice.

I didn't push on this add on because of current back order situations, but long tube headers add a decent amount of TQ to these engines.
The only stainless ones I've seen go on easy with a catless Y-pipe are speed engineering ones....but back ordered til July for the whole kit.
They have the long tubes but you'd have to find someone to fab the rest.
Its a great deal for $400.00.....but ETA now is 7/9

https://speed-engineering.com/shop-...suv-longtube-headers-y-pipe-1999-2006-m2.html

Have your mech check fuel pressure after the pump install.

I think I paid $700 for my setup from them. Had to take out the front prop shaft to get it to fit tho, so no more 4wd.

 

[tRidiot]

So apparently once installed and buttoned up, my motor runs wonderfully.

But the rear seal leaked. <sigh>

He's now dropped the exhaust and trans again and found the rear main seal around the crank is leaking. It's a new seal, looks fine, appears installed fine, but it just leaks around the bottom. So... a few more days and a few hundred dollars more.

S*** happens, I guess. Maybe tomorrow, maybe Saturday.