Help with new Stereo install on 2007 LTZ Tahoe

[Jesus_831]

Hello everyone, ill do my best to keep this short and to the point. In January I bought all the components to update my entire stereo in my truck then Covid hit. Original I had planed for a local shop to do the install but now I found myself with extra time only working a few days a week so chose to do the install myself. My tuck came with the factory BOSS system, navigation, rear DVD entertainment and OnStar. I did my homework and purchased all the necessary wiring harness to integrate my original steering wheel controls, OnStar and rear DVD entertainment. SO my question is can I just pull out and disregard the Boss amplifier that is located in the center console along with the small factory woofer also located there? By removing these will it have any impact on any other electrical units within the center console like the rear Ac/Heat controls? My local shops wont help me even with just information since they are not doing the work any help would be greatly apricated as everything is currently removed and just looking for solid information before I put everything back together.

 

[Doubeleive]

you can just take it out, you will then need to use a adapter to use the existing speaker wiring with whatever amp you are replacing it with.

 

[Jesus_831]

Thanks for the info, so in this case I have already ran new wire to all my doors and front pillars and do not plan on using any of the factory wiring. I did purchase a PAC- RP5-GM31 and the retention harness (GMRVD) for the overhead LCD. This the harness you are referring to?

 

[iamdub]

The amp may need to stay in place, depending on what interface you have. It contains the electronics that control the chimes and turn signal clicker and the speakers go through it. The speaker part may not matter if you're hooking up amps to the low-level outputs on the HU. Just leave it, hooked up and all and do your connections behind the HU then unplug it to see if you lose anything. If not, then you'll know it's completely bypassed and can remove it. It IS separate from the rear A/C controls, though.

 

[Doubeleive]

The amp may need to stay in place, depending on what interface you have. It contains the electronics that control the chimes and turn signal clicker and the speakers go through it. The speaker part may not matter if you're hooking up amps to the low-level outputs on the HU. Just leave it, hooked up and all and do your connections behind the HU then unplug it to see if you lose anything. If not, then you'll know it's completely bypassed and can remove it. It IS separate from the rear A/C controls, though.

the fake clicker noise made by the bcm, he will loose all sound until a amp and module is put back in, the amp it's self is just a amp it does not have any module or controls in it.
by eliminating the bose amp he can use a non bose module and bypass it and onstar.
I bought the adapter for my silverado so I can just unplug the bose amp and plug in my own amps I loose nothing

 

[iamdub]

the fake clicker noise made by the bcm, he will loose all sound until a amp and module is put back in, the amp it's self is just a amp it does not have any module or controls in it.
by eliminating the bose amp he can use a non bose module and bypass it and onstar.
I bought the adapter for my silverado so I can just unplug the bose amp and plug in my own amps I loose nothing

Hmmm... Maybe I was thinking of the factory HU? If you remove the factory one, you have to have an interface to regain those sounds.


...Yeah, now that I'm thinking of it, it's the HU that those sounds go through (and probably originated from the BCM) and not the amp.

 

[Jesus_831]

thanks for the info, i did purchase ta PAC- RP5-GM31 to retain the OnStar, door chime ect and the retention harness (GMRVD) for the overhead LCD. I have a new aftermarket stereo that I will be installing along with 3 amplifiers (2 4ch for the speakers up front & 1 for the subwoofers) I'm attempting to do a fully active system and have a DSP I was hoping to add in the same location as the BOSE amp. There is not much info out there so apricate anything you can share.

 

[Doubeleive]

thanks for the info, i did purchase ta PAC- RP5-GM31 to retain the OnStar, door chime ect and the retention harness (GMRVD) for the overhead LCD. I have a new aftermarket stereo that I will be installing along with 3 amplifiers (2 4ch for the speakers up front & 1 for the subwoofers) I'm attempting to do a fully active system and have a DSP I was hoping to add in the same location as the BOSE amp. There is not much info out there so apricate anything you can share.

depending on your trim level the existing bose amp may or may not have had dsp, either way by removing it you will have to add your own processor

 

[Jesus_831]

thanks, I have one I purchased already for this build so sounds like pulling the amp out should cause any issues.

 

[Jesus_831]

Thanks everyone for your input, I was able to remove Bose amp and do my aftermarket stereo instal with no issues or bypass harness. The only thing I had to do dirge today was ditch the PAC wire harness and go with Maestro RR2 wire harness to be able to retain the rear factory entertainment unit. I did purchase the recommended cable from PAC but I had to do some extra Wire cutting which I was able to avoid using the other wire harness. Thanks