How do you keep your plate from rattling when you close the hatch

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snowjay

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My plate frame just attaches at the top since it has a saying across the bottom and every time I close the hatch it rattles just a but and it drives me crazy.

I thought about putting some 3M foam on the backside to keep it quite but wondering if someone else has a more ingenious solution.
 

tast101

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My plate frame just attaches at the top since it has a saying across the bottom and every time I close the hatch it rattles just a but and it drives me crazy.

I thought about putting some 3M foam on the backside to keep it quite but wondering if someone else has a more ingenious solution.

Thats what I did in my previous cars, really helped out. I did all around the back edge of the license plate and a X in the middle. I also put some in between the License plate frame and the plate too.
 

iwaslowr

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When my metal plates arrived I was worried about the plate rubbing the paint and didn't even think about having an issue with rattling... but the mod I did has prevented both from occurring. I decided to take advantage of all four mounting points on the plate and added a 1/4 inch or 5/16 rubber grommet (like the one pictured below) on each screw, right behind the plate where the screw protrudes, to act as a spacer between the plate and body panel. Now the plate is a safe distance away from the body panel and there was no adhesive involved. :Handshake: Another advantage is the grommets hold the screws in place when the plate is being installed or removed.

rubber_grommets_big.jpg

Here's a pic of how far my plate sits from the panel with the grommets in place...
lpgrommets.jpg

Since you have a license plate frame perhaps you can insert the lower plate screws first, then place the frame over them and secure it in place with the top two screws? If that won't work, how about installing the lower screws behind the license plate and cover them with rubber caps like these... but modified for your needs?:

large26-105.jpg
 
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snowjay

snowjay

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When my metal plates arrived I was worried about the plate rubbing the paint and didn't even think about having an issue with rattling... but the mod I did has prevented both from occurring. I decided to take advantage of all four mounting points on the plate and added a 1/4 inch or 5/16 rubber grommet (like the one pictured below) on each screw, right behind the plate where the screw protrudes, to act as a spacer between the plate and body panel. Now the plate is a safe distance away from the body panel and there was no adhesive involved. :Handshake: Another advantage is the grommets hold the screws in place when the plate is being installed or removed.

rubber_grommets_big.jpg

Since you have a license plate frame perhaps you can insert the lower plate screws first, then place the frame over them and secure it in place with the top two screws? If that won't work, how about installing the lower screws behind the license plate and cover them with rubber caps like these... but modified for your needs?:

large26-105.jpg

Good ideas. I was going to get some nylon washers today to put behind the upper holes but I like your grommet idea better. I'll have to try a few different things for the bottom.
 
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snowjay

snowjay

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When my metal plates arrived I was worried about the plate rubbing the paint and didn't even think about having an issue with rattling... but the mod I did has prevented both from occurring. I decided to take advantage of all four mounting points on the plate and added a 1/4 inch or 5/16 rubber grommet (like the one pictured below) on each screw, right behind the plate where the screw protrudes, to act as a spacer between the plate and body panel. Now the plate is a safe distance away from the body panel and there was no adhesive involved. :Handshake: Another advantage is the grommets hold the screws in place when the plate is being installed or removed.

rubber_grommets_big.jpg

Since you have a license plate frame perhaps you can insert the lower plate screws first, then place the frame over them and secure it in place with the top two screws? If that won't work, how about installing the lower screws behind the license plate and cover them with rubber caps like these... but modified for your needs?:

large26-105.jpg


I stopped at the hardware store and did a modified version of this. I couldn't find rubber grommets like you had but I found little rubber bumpers that are 3/4" round and 5/16" thick.

My plate fits in the frame pretty snugly as there are tabs at the bottom that hold it in place. Then I used some 3M auto tape to hold the rubber bumpers over the lower screw holes and inserted the screws through the top and threaded the bumpers on over them. I gave the plate frame a little tweaking just to make sure it would make good contact to the truck on all 4 points.

It works pretty good. The rubber bumpers contact the screw points perfectly and when the place is all secured in place all 4 bumpers are touching the truck and there is no play on the plate at all. Closing the hatch now resounds with a normal "thunk" and no plate/frame slapping the sheet metal.

I may try to find some thinner bumpers as these are a bit thick and the plate does protrude into the handle area a bit but at least I know what works!
 

iwaslowr

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...I couldn't find rubber grommets like you had but I found little rubber bumpers that are 3/4" round and 5/16" thick....

I recall finding mine at Pep Boys or some other local auto parts store... they were fortunately in my tool box from some time ago. I'm glad things worked out for you :cheers:
 
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snowjay

snowjay

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I recall finding mine at Pep Boys or some other local auto parts store... they were fortunately in my tool box from some time ago. I'm glad things worked out :cheers:

Yeah, I'll probably head to an auto parts store on the weekend that has those bins of small parts and try to get something a little thinner. If not I have something that works.

Thanks again. :worship:
 

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