How fragile is the 1500 IFS, really?

[Yogi619]

I have a 2002 Suburban that I want to lift 6" to do some Overland adventuring/camping with. However, I keep reading articles stating that the 8.25 IFS system is complete garbage and will leave me stranded if the wind blows too hard.

How fragile is the 8.25 system, really? Can I run 35" tires and tackle mild/medium rocks, hills, and mud without grenading CV's and my diff every few outings? Keep in mind I'm looking at overlanding, not hardcore mud or rock crawling.

And although I'm sure I know the answer to this already, are 37" tires completely out of the question? I ran across this picture of a guy stuffing 37's, and as much as I love the look, I can't help but think that the front end will explode as soon as he leaves a parking lot.



Thanks guys.

 

[Marv02]

You can put a straight axle conversion if you want.

I was thinking about this my self but I don't want to lift my Yukon XL.

 

[middelgriff1]

I think the susp. will hold up to the 35's. Its your trans if its the same as the tahoe that will break. Also you will want a lift kit with the tcase drop (i think) to correct for the CV angles that you'll have. Also, just think of how many people are running lifted tahoes/ yukons/ silverados w/35's offroad. If the front susp was that bad i don't think that many people would offroad them. I don't have any background in it, but i think you could run 35's without a problem with some performance upgrades, built trans, and gears if you want.

 

[01Konvict]

35s and 6" lift is safe for the 1500s, I wouldn't suggest 37s on a 1500. I tend to leave anything above a 35 for 2500/3500s. I havent had any issue with my 33s and leaving me stuck in the woods. I did break a CV from lifting mine but it was bad before I lifted it and new it would break. So I waited til it broke and replaced it with a lifetime warranty one from Napa. Now just a 30 min swap if it ever breaks again. You will most likely get some extra play with the idler/pitman arm from the 35s. All other joints should be fine.

 

[SLCHOE]

A true 6" diff drop lift like the Procomp I have will keep your geometry very near factory.

35"s on the street without gearing is one thing. 35's off-road, you will need to regear probably atleast to tahoe 4.56 ot even 5.13 depending on the terrain.

However, you have other issues. If you have a gov lock, you need to get rid of that for a true locker (good mechanical, pneumatic or e-locker). You will blow out that ra

 

[Z-56 Hoe]

You will be fine just service trans. And make sure it's good but a trans cooler on it , regear at least to a 4.56's. And I run a eaton ratchet locker! Replace idler arm , pitman arm, check hubs. , and inner and outer tie rod links. I would also use royal purple diff fluid it doesn't break done that easy..

Oh and either a tune or a programer to let the computer know that it has bigger rolling mass and has been re geared!

 

[OR VietVet]

I have had lifted IFS GM rigs that if treated mildly will be ok but you have to keep in mind that anything different/larger that is done to it puts more stress on the system. The IFS was designed for the smooth road feel under a light truck frame. You change it and put bigger items on that and it all changes. You will push it eventually and then you will pay for it. It's your rig and your money but when you go beyond what it was designed for then you assume the risk and cost.

I had a 73 Blazer with 8" of lift and 38's tires and Dana 60 at the front and GM 14 bolt at the rear and Detroit lockers at both ends and could not break those axles. I tried, believe me. The truck's nickname was Brutus. It earned it. The IFS never will.