How to install E-Fans

[MCAT069]

The 620-654 is the heavy duty version. The below picture is from Dorman tech support which I contacted when I was researching for my efan swap for my 8.1.

 

[bottomline2000]

What is the improvement? I'm looking for either better airflow or quieter. I bought a Dorman one, 620654, which had the same blade count as the 620653.

I have the 620653 in my truck. They seem quieter, but they also have 7 blades on both sides with more curve I believe. The ones from the 05 Yukon has like a 5 blade count on one side. The HD ones must have a stronger motor since the blad count is the same.

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[adriver]

I never said your truck could function without fans, only that it takes a while for the truck to get up to operating temp just sitting. The quote is a little out of context but whatever..

I have both generations of fans..1 set from an 05 Yukon and the ones currently on my truck for a `13 Escalade.. there is an improvement in the newer fans..

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I wouldn't call that out of context. You made a pretty broad statement, lets call it relative. If you have snow on the ground you might be fine; I'm in Phoenix, AZ. We've had over 100 days of over 100 degrees here so far this year (which is average). If the air is 100, the road is about 120-140. My truck is at full operating temp within 2 miles. I start it up, and even in this temp let it idle for about 10-15 seconds to get that initial drop from 1000rpm to about 850, then off I go.

 

[Rocket Man]

I wouldn't call that out of context. You made a pretty broad statement, lets call it relative. If you have snow on the ground you might be fine; I'm in Phoenix, AZ. We've had over 100 days of over 100 degrees here so far this year (which is average). If the air is 100, the road is about 120-140. My truck is at full operating temp within 2 miles. I start it up, and even in this temp let it idle for about 10-15 seconds to get that initial drop from 1000rpm to about 850, then off I go.

I run about 9 months of the year here in Oregon without the fans ever coming on. It’s hard to test the full fan functions.

 

[bottomline2000]

I wouldn't call that out of context. You made a pretty broad statement, lets call it relative. If you have snow on the ground you might be fine; I'm in Phoenix, AZ. We've had over 100 days of over 100 degrees here so far this year (which is average). If the air is 100, the road is about 120-140. My truck is at full operating temp within 2 miles. I start it up, and even in this temp let it idle for about 10-15 seconds to get that initial drop from 1000rpm to about 850, then off I go.

Do you have efans on your truck?

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[adriver]

Do you have efans on your truck?

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The ONLY time mine ever came on HIGH was when it was right at 120 that day. It was right mid afternoon, the hottest part of the day, and while sitting in traffic, (stopped on the highway). This same scenario happened about a year before, and my temps started climbing quick. That was the reason I put them on.

 

[bottomline2000]

The ONLY time mine ever came on HIGH was when it was right at 120 that day. It was right mid afternoon, the hottest part of the day, and while sitting in traffic, (stopped on the highway). This same scenario happened about a year before, and my temps started climbing quick. That was the reason I put them on.

So if you have efans you know how they work why all the questionimg my post from 3years ago? My initial comment was in reference to starting the truck from cold and letting it warm up, not jumping in and driving it immediately. Now to further that if it takes 120deg weather for your cooling system to kick the fans on high then its rather efficient which is what I was referencing. You also must have an 03 or newer truck..Having an 00 truck we don't get that luxury and our fans will constantly kick on high if the a.c. is on and the truck is at operating temp. It's the nature of the beast. I'm in TX and in the cooler months my fans rarely come on if I'm not using the ac..stop and go traffic in the middle of summer is a different animal and no cooling system is going to work without airflow in extreme heat..

Ironically it seems I had a problem yesterday with my harness..the fans kicked off high while sitting for about 10 minutes. I had been running the a.c. pretty hard all day. The a.c. fan was still on high, but my fans were not triggering from temp. I can only assume I blew a relay. it got warmer but I hit the freeway and let it cool down and the went back to the surface streets.. Point is I drove home in stop and go traffic. With just the a.c. fan working in 100deg weather and it didn't overheat..

So my question is what's up with the questions on a 3yr old post?

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[RAMurphy]

Thought I would add a post to this thread as sort of an update. I've been running electric fans on my 2002 Tahoe for over 100,000 miles (currently at 251,000). My setup was initially the flexalite fan and controller. About a year after installing I upgraded the controller to the BB harness. All was well until 3 months ago we were on our way to a family vacation on a very hot day, got stopped in traffic and my temperatures started climbing. I was able to get out of traffic and things cooled back down. However, each time I stopped the temperature climbed. If you ever installed the flexalite fans, they are quite loud but they move a lot of air. I knew they were not working because I could not hear them. We finally arrived at our mountain cabin and the trouble shooting began. One of the fans stopped working and was pulling a significant amount of amps and blowing my fuses. Luckily I was able to temporarily hotwire the other fan and was able to get home without any problems. Researched a replacement fan using this site and the web and decided to purchase the Dorman 162054. I should have listened to the reviews and this post. Installed this fan and initially very pleased. Much quieter than the flexalites. However, after a day of use, they stopped working. Blew the 40amp fuses. Replaced the fuses after checking the wiring and these fuses blew the next day. Replaced with 50 amp fuses, yep two days later these fuses blew too. Replaced with a resettable 60 amp fuses. These blew too. Checked the amp draw at this point and was surprised to see the draw when these fans kick on high was well over 60 amps. Sent the fan back and ordered the Dorman 162053 fan and have not had a problem since. Maybe I had a bad fan, but based on what I read I think I made the right choice of going with the Dorman 162053.

 

[gasser]

Step 1 - Pop hood
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Step 2 - Remove intake tube (This is only IF you want extra space...I didnt pull mine this time but you might want to)

Step 3 - Remove two top bolts and pull coolant line clip out of shroud

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Step 4 - The Fan Shroud is two pieces. A top and a bottom. They are connected in the middle by clips. This picture was taken out of the vehicle so that you could see...they are a pain to get out

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Step 5 - Remove the top shroud by pushing the coolant line and working the shroud side to side...Also, the shroud has a lip that holds it down...push it back towards the engine and you will see it come out from under the radiator support bar on top... it will be a pain in the ass, just be patient...dont be afraid to use some force and bend the shroud to get it out. (LEAVE BOTTOM SHROUD ALONE FOR NOW)

Step 7 - With the bottom shroud still in place, you can begin removing the Clutch Fan.

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Lock the pulley? with one of these tools below (except the crescent wrench)

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You can also use the Vise Grips...dont worry bout chewing up the pulley? because it wont harm it

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After locking the tool in place (to prevent the pulley? from spinning, throw your large crescent wrench on the nut
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Your locking tool (vise grips or other) will slide off a few times if you dont have it clamped on well enough...be patient.

Remove the clutch fan by loosening the nut between the pulley? and the back of the fan. After you break it loose, you can spin it by hand to take it off...it'll probly fall if you dont grab it in time lol...

With the Clutch fan removed, you can now pull the bottom shroud out..BE SURE TO REMOVE the metal oil? line clip from the bottom shroud..it should now look like this..

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Now its time to connect the wiring harness that you received from Justin to the OEM 05+ Tahoe Radiator fans that you purchased.
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The LAST clip on the harness connects to the passenger side fan..duh


Look at the bottom of the fans...you will see 3 rubber feet with slits in them. Now look in your engine bay at the bottom of the radiator tray and notice the ridge. That ridge will slide into those rubber feet! Also notice the arm on the sides of the new fan assembly. You will see where they go when you start to install the fans.

Slide the fans down and get them into position..not much detail needs to be explained..you'll figure this part out pretty easy...bolt it back in, clip the metal oil lines back in at the bottom, clip the coolant line back on top...Your fans are now installed...

NOW on to installing the wiring harness..


Disconnect your battery if you want...I didnt...and nothing happened..but Im not taking the blame if you do something and fry your truck...



Your computer usually has a black cover over it...pull it off...theres little tabs you have you pull to remove it..good luck! haha
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Then remove the tabs holding the PCM? in....unbolt the two connectors...and pull those POS gray covers OFF!!!


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There are two long plugs...unbolt them both..(but ONLY work on ONE AT A TIME!!!!!!)

When you unbolt and pull each connection, one will have a green cover over the pins, and one will have a blue cover over the pins...

Pull whichever one you want first...unclip the colored cover...and slide the pin into the correct slot from the top...
(Green wire goes to green covered connection, Blue wire goes to the blue connection)

Blue wire gets pushed into the blue covered #42 slot (be sure to take the colored covers off while doing this, then put them back on when done)

Green wire gets pushed into the green covered #33?? slot (Im not 100% sure if thats the correct pin number...someone chime in)

*the wires will have tags on them, telling you what slots to put them in*

Its a pain in the ass to get them all the way through the clip...I had to push the pin in as far as I could by hand, grab something thin and long (no jokes please lol)..like a toothpick or something like that and push it in a little more till I could grab the metal connection and pull it through the other side with needle nose pliers...I did bend the with teeth on the connection plug a little bit so that I could grab a hold of the wire

Thanks a lot for guide