04ctd
Full Access Member
the pulleys are all 15mm sockets.
you NEED some sort of ratchet that is air drive or battery,
or something, it's aLOT of turning. the bolts goes in to aluminum, and they are wrench tight all the way out. i could not turn mine with my fingers.
i drug out my ole wore out air ratchet, saved my knuckles & my testimony.
you have to hook a 15mm box end wrench on the top tensioner, then hook another box end over the open end, to get enough leverage sometimes.
i had one LOUD pulley, and the two tensioners were ~$33 each.
the idler was ~$11 (IIRC) so for less than $100, i could have my SUV as reliable as possible.
a tow is $50, so this is cheap insurance.
FWIW, you should throw on new belts (or at LEAST an AC belt, since you have to take so much off)
you have to take off the main belt to take off the AC belt,
and you have to take off the skid plate / splash guard (4 15mm bolts)
and you have to stick a ratchet in there, and release the tension on the AC tensioner, so the arm will move up, so you can access the bolt head.
belt on, bolt blocked:
belt off, access:
all the Pics:
http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/Tahoe-fan-belt-tensioner/?start=all
the thermostat is RIGHT THERE, and is 2 10mm bolts, you may as well do it.
and while you have it off, take the top radiator hose off, and flush the radiator out, and the engine. takes a few minutes, and gives you all new coolant in the system.
HtH?
---------- Post added at 10:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:52 PM ----------
FWIW, my 100k mile SUV sounded like a mobile junk yard on a remote start with the AC running.
now, even with the hood up, it is MUCH QUIETER. it made a HUGE difference in how loud it is, by doing all three.
at 100k miles, i would do the thermostat, radiator flush & fluid, both belts,
and all 3 tensioners.
good peace of mind, and it sounds like a new one!
you NEED some sort of ratchet that is air drive or battery,
or something, it's aLOT of turning. the bolts goes in to aluminum, and they are wrench tight all the way out. i could not turn mine with my fingers.
i drug out my ole wore out air ratchet, saved my knuckles & my testimony.
you have to hook a 15mm box end wrench on the top tensioner, then hook another box end over the open end, to get enough leverage sometimes.
i had one LOUD pulley, and the two tensioners were ~$33 each.
the idler was ~$11 (IIRC) so for less than $100, i could have my SUV as reliable as possible.
a tow is $50, so this is cheap insurance.
FWIW, you should throw on new belts (or at LEAST an AC belt, since you have to take so much off)
you have to take off the main belt to take off the AC belt,
and you have to take off the skid plate / splash guard (4 15mm bolts)
and you have to stick a ratchet in there, and release the tension on the AC tensioner, so the arm will move up, so you can access the bolt head.
belt on, bolt blocked:
belt off, access:
all the Pics:
http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/Tahoe-fan-belt-tensioner/?start=all
the thermostat is RIGHT THERE, and is 2 10mm bolts, you may as well do it.
and while you have it off, take the top radiator hose off, and flush the radiator out, and the engine. takes a few minutes, and gives you all new coolant in the system.
HtH?
---------- Post added at 10:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:52 PM ----------
FWIW, my 100k mile SUV sounded like a mobile junk yard on a remote start with the AC running.
now, even with the hood up, it is MUCH QUIETER. it made a HUGE difference in how loud it is, by doing all three.
at 100k miles, i would do the thermostat, radiator flush & fluid, both belts,
and all 3 tensioners.
good peace of mind, and it sounds like a new one!
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