Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Thx Sam.Thanks Tony. Hope you get better soon as well!
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Thx Sam.Thanks Tony. Hope you get better soon as well!
When I talked to the trans guy on Friday he said he was going to get on it and hopefully dyno test the trans on Tuesday and maybe get it shipped. Said I would get a tracking number which would tell me if I can expect the trans on Friday or if it would be early next week. Well, so far no tracking number. I was gonna call today but I held off because I still have a lot to do before I’m ready.
Trans is still in but everything is disconnected. It’s held up with my motorcycle jack that I’m using as a trans jack. The t-case is ready to come down first but my wife works for post office and they are swamped this time of year. She didn’t get home until 7:40pm yesterday so I didn’t get out to garage until 8 and spent a few hours with all the small stuff so it’s ready to drop.
Once out I need to replace rear main seal, because I’m there, pull the exhaust manifolds and remove a couple broken bolts, replace u-joints in rear driveshaft, clean the bottom of the body and paint what I don’t like (because that’s what I do) and then clean and paint crossmember. It’s hard to get shit done when I can’t leave my 5 year old in the house alone. So I didn’t bother calling thinking I would hear something 2mrw.
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Build a pigpen, I mean, princess castle in the corner of the garage for the rugrat!
Damn good job! Congrats.Figure I better get some pics up for the picture ******.
First parts pile getting larger because I haven’t put anything new on yet.
I guess it helped soaking this thing overnight. Actually, it soaked for 2 days. I started prying and it seemed to have a little more movement. I used my air hammer with a blunt bit and hit the dowel pin on the drivers side and it separated about 1/8”. Moved to other side and same thing, 1/8”. Back to drivers side and was able to get 36” pry bar between bellhousing and back of engine. Had a good bite on it and a few squeezes of the air hammer trigger and it was loose. Passenger side came the rest of the way off with just the pry bar. Both dowel pins stayed in bellhousing. But didn’t have to use sawzall so that’s all that matters.
Took a break from under the truck and removed the u-joints from driveshafts. These are factory joints and it takes some heat to melt out the plastic that is put in to retain the joint. These suck to pound out if you don’t first melt the plastic out.
After the plastic oozes out, smack it like it owes you money and they come out. Both shafts done and half ass cleaned up with a wire wheel.
Did you really think I wasn’t gonna paint them? C’mon man!!
Back under.
Gonna pull flywheel here in a minute and change the rear seal and gasket.
Next is the manifolds. They will both be coming off the engine to extract 2 bolts that are broke off in head (one on each side) and to replace the y-pipe studs. Maybe!! If I don’t feel like removing the studs, it might just be header time. I’m already leaning toward doing away with the cats and post O2 sensors since it’s off. Depends on time.
And this cooler line block off plate has been leaking for a while now and I’ve been putting it off. No better time than the present to tackle it. I’ve had the part since 2 weeks after I bought the truck.
Back to work! I can’t stand here jaw jacking and ass blowing with you guys, I have a lot to do before I’m done for the night. I’ll update 2mrw night what I got done. But of course I have to work so I can’t start until later afternoon.
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Figure I better get some pics up for the picture ******.
First parts pile getting larger because I haven’t put anything new on yet.
I guess it helped soaking this thing overnight. Actually, it soaked for 2 days. I started prying and it seemed to have a little more movement. I used my air hammer with a blunt bit and hit the dowel pin on the drivers side and it separated about 1/8”. Moved to other side and same thing, 1/8”. Back to drivers side and was able to get 36” pry bar between bellhousing and back of engine. Had a good bite on it and a few squeezes of the air hammer trigger and it was loose. Passenger side came the rest of the way off with just the pry bar. Both dowel pins stayed in bellhousing. But didn’t have to use sawzall so that’s all that matters.
Took a break from under the truck and removed the u-joints from driveshafts. These are factory joints and it takes some heat to melt out the plastic that is put in to retain the joint. These suck to pound out if you don’t first melt the plastic out.
After the plastic oozes out, smack it like it owes you money and they come out. Both shafts done and half ass cleaned up with a wire wheel.
Did you really think I wasn’t gonna paint them? C’mon man!!
Back under.
Gonna pull flywheel here in a minute and change the rear seal and gasket.
Next is the manifolds. They will both be coming off the engine to extract 2 bolts that are broke off in head (one on each side) and to replace the y-pipe studs. Maybe!! If I don’t feel like removing the studs, it might just be header time. I’m already leaning toward doing away with the cats and post O2 sensors since it’s off. Depends on time.
And this cooler line block off plate has been leaking for a while now and I’ve been putting it off. No better time than the present to tackle it. I’ve had the part since 2 weeks after I bought the truck.
Back to work! I can’t stand here jaw jacking and ass blowing with you guys, I have a lot to do before I’m done for the night. I’ll update 2mrw night what I got done. But of course I have to work so I can’t start until later afternoon.
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Do my eyes deceive me or are those bellhousings slightly different???
Looks like one of the holes got relocated...
View attachment 236546
I'm not suggesting that it will be an issue... just something I happened to notice.
I wonder if it was something to do with different years or ???