I’m back with an Esky this time

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OP
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Snowbound

Snowbound

Jim
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When I talked to the trans guy on Friday he said he was going to get on it and hopefully dyno test the trans on Tuesday and maybe get it shipped. Said I would get a tracking number which would tell me if I can expect the trans on Friday or if it would be early next week. Well, so far no tracking number. I was gonna call today but I held off because I still have a lot to do before I’m ready.

Trans is still in but everything is disconnected. It’s held up with my motorcycle jack that I’m using as a trans jack. The t-case is ready to come down first but my wife works for post office and they are swamped this time of year. She didn’t get home until 7:40pm yesterday so I didn’t get out to garage until 8 and spent a few hours with all the small stuff so it’s ready to drop.

Once out I need to replace rear main seal, because I’m there, pull the exhaust manifolds and remove a couple broken bolts, replace u-joints in rear driveshaft, clean the bottom of the body and paint what I don’t like (because that’s what I do) and then clean and paint crossmember. It’s hard to get shit done when I can’t leave my 5 year old in the house alone. So I didn’t bother calling thinking I would hear something 2mrw.


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HiHoeSilver

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When I talked to the trans guy on Friday he said he was going to get on it and hopefully dyno test the trans on Tuesday and maybe get it shipped. Said I would get a tracking number which would tell me if I can expect the trans on Friday or if it would be early next week. Well, so far no tracking number. I was gonna call today but I held off because I still have a lot to do before I’m ready.

Trans is still in but everything is disconnected. It’s held up with my motorcycle jack that I’m using as a trans jack. The t-case is ready to come down first but my wife works for post office and they are swamped this time of year. She didn’t get home until 7:40pm yesterday so I didn’t get out to garage until 8 and spent a few hours with all the small stuff so it’s ready to drop.

Once out I need to replace rear main seal, because I’m there, pull the exhaust manifolds and remove a couple broken bolts, replace u-joints in rear driveshaft, clean the bottom of the body and paint what I don’t like (because that’s what I do) and then clean and paint crossmember. It’s hard to get shit done when I can’t leave my 5 year old in the house alone. So I didn’t bother calling thinking I would hear something 2mrw.


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Build a pigpen, I mean, princess castle in the corner of the garage for the rugrat!
 
OP
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Snowbound

Snowbound

Jim
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Around noon today at work I get called on the radio to come over to the dock. I’m thinking something is broke or frozen. To my surprise R&L carriers is there with my trans!

Just got it in garage!! Holy shit, I wasn’t ready!! Now I gotta bust my ass and maybe have this thing ready to be programmed by Saturday depending on my other parts coming in. Still running like an electric Mexican.

ae6e525194ca507698c7c68fd70bd285.jpg


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OP
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Snowbound

Snowbound

Jim
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This vehicle has been fighting me. Dropping the T-case it wouldn’t budge. The studs going thru the t-case adapter were holding it on. Bimetallic galvanic corrosion developed where the stud contacts the aluminum. I soaked it, beat on it and ended up having to hammer a chisel between the mating surfaces to get it to split.

Then the same thing happened where the dowel pins go thru the trans bellhousing. On Tuesday I spent 5 hrs just trying to separate this crap and the trans is still hanging on there. The wife didn’t get home until 7:40 so I got out there at 8pm and didn’t give up until 1am. I heated around the pins, soaked it, pried while beating, let it hang off engine and kicked the shit out of it. Before I went in I wrapped a tow strap around trans and hooked up come-a-long and pulled on it off the rear axle. I left it with tension and jack about 1” off the bottom of trans pan and soaked it with Kroil.

Yesterday after a 3hr nap I went to work and had to cover until 7pm so needless to say, I wasn’t going back out there because I was too tired.

Today same thing, worked 7-7 so I decided I’m taking another day without touching this thing. I don’t normally take this kinda break from something that has me so pissed but I’m sore. Sucks being 42 years old, working on my back pulling a trans. I would already have a lift if I planned on staying here but we are outta here in August so a lift is gonna be at the top of the to do list.

I didn’t stop to take pics, I was gonna get them when trans was on the ground. But parts are showing up. Yesterday I got the rear main seal and gasket, exhaust manifold bolts, studs for bottom of manifold, gasket and donut and u-joints.
24d2d81cfd65e8dfa97122c71ad17b88.jpg

Today I got trans mount, exhaust manifold gaskets, trans lines and cooler flush, and something else..... oh yeah, my overload springs for the sled but that’s another day. No pics, the parts are in garage and I’m not going out there or else I know I’d find myself crawling under it.

Be patient, I’ll get back out there 2mrw, the afternoon guy will be back so I’ll be out there by 4pm and that ***** is coming down even if I have to use a sawzall.


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OP
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Snowbound

Snowbound

Jim
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Figure I better get some pics up for the picture ******.
First parts pile getting larger because I haven’t put anything new on yet.
50c1c675f65070b41038b8e7ae79c63d.jpg

I guess it helped soaking this thing overnight. Actually, it soaked for 2 days. I started prying and it seemed to have a little more movement. I used my air hammer with a blunt bit and hit the dowel pin on the drivers side and it separated about 1/8”. Moved to other side and same thing, 1/8”. Back to drivers side and was able to get 36” pry bar between bellhousing and back of engine. Had a good bite on it and a few squeezes of the air hammer trigger and it was loose. Passenger side came the rest of the way off with just the pry bar. Both dowel pins stayed in bellhousing. But didn’t have to use sawzall so that’s all that matters.
e069ec0526a8e7032dafc548d04b82f2.jpg

Took a break from under the truck and removed the u-joints from driveshafts. These are factory joints and it takes some heat to melt out the plastic that is put in to retain the joint. These suck to pound out if you don’t first melt the plastic out.
bdd1e3d5412625d1e7222c526f771b15.jpg

c8009a72dd5054fd96a4cd465a74a0e6.jpg

After the plastic oozes out, smack it like it owes you money and they come out. Both shafts done and half ass cleaned up with a wire wheel.

20ff12e51ab47f245022379beb5d374c.jpg

Did you really think I wasn’t gonna paint them? C’mon man!!

Back under.
735057261c2a23e962b2f22bf0d2666a.jpg

Gonna pull flywheel here in a minute and change the rear seal and gasket.

Next is the manifolds. They will both be coming off the engine to extract 2 bolts that are broke off in head (one on each side) and to replace the y-pipe studs. Maybe!! If I don’t feel like removing the studs, it might just be header time. I’m already leaning toward doing away with the cats and post O2 sensors since it’s off. Depends on time.
218a0ebcee0cfed160b780a83992930c.jpg


fce692f08c0c0ac792ceee6d788be45f.jpg

And this cooler line block off plate has been leaking for a while now and I’ve been putting it off. No better time than the present to tackle it. I’ve had the part since 2 weeks after I bought the truck.
dcdd1f4cbed10413476b1ee2c948faf0.jpg

Back to work! I can’t stand here jaw jacking and ass blowing with you guys, I have a lot to do before I’m done for the night. I’ll update 2mrw night what I got done. But of course I have to work so I can’t start until later afternoon.


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Tonyrodz

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Figure I better get some pics up for the picture ******.
First parts pile getting larger because I haven’t put anything new on yet.
50c1c675f65070b41038b8e7ae79c63d.jpg

I guess it helped soaking this thing overnight. Actually, it soaked for 2 days. I started prying and it seemed to have a little more movement. I used my air hammer with a blunt bit and hit the dowel pin on the drivers side and it separated about 1/8”. Moved to other side and same thing, 1/8”. Back to drivers side and was able to get 36” pry bar between bellhousing and back of engine. Had a good bite on it and a few squeezes of the air hammer trigger and it was loose. Passenger side came the rest of the way off with just the pry bar. Both dowel pins stayed in bellhousing. But didn’t have to use sawzall so that’s all that matters.
e069ec0526a8e7032dafc548d04b82f2.jpg

Took a break from under the truck and removed the u-joints from driveshafts. These are factory joints and it takes some heat to melt out the plastic that is put in to retain the joint. These suck to pound out if you don’t first melt the plastic out.
bdd1e3d5412625d1e7222c526f771b15.jpg

c8009a72dd5054fd96a4cd465a74a0e6.jpg

After the plastic oozes out, smack it like it owes you money and they come out. Both shafts done and half ass cleaned up with a wire wheel.

20ff12e51ab47f245022379beb5d374c.jpg

Did you really think I wasn’t gonna paint them? C’mon man!!

Back under.
735057261c2a23e962b2f22bf0d2666a.jpg

Gonna pull flywheel here in a minute and change the rear seal and gasket.

Next is the manifolds. They will both be coming off the engine to extract 2 bolts that are broke off in head (one on each side) and to replace the y-pipe studs. Maybe!! If I don’t feel like removing the studs, it might just be header time. I’m already leaning toward doing away with the cats and post O2 sensors since it’s off. Depends on time.
218a0ebcee0cfed160b780a83992930c.jpg


fce692f08c0c0ac792ceee6d788be45f.jpg

And this cooler line block off plate has been leaking for a while now and I’ve been putting it off. No better time than the present to tackle it. I’ve had the part since 2 weeks after I bought the truck.
dcdd1f4cbed10413476b1ee2c948faf0.jpg

Back to work! I can’t stand here jaw jacking and ass blowing with you guys, I have a lot to do before I’m done for the night. I’ll update 2mrw night what I got done. But of course I have to work so I can’t start until later afternoon.


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Damn good job! Congrats.
 

kbuskill

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Figure I better get some pics up for the picture ******.
First parts pile getting larger because I haven’t put anything new on yet.
50c1c675f65070b41038b8e7ae79c63d.jpg

I guess it helped soaking this thing overnight. Actually, it soaked for 2 days. I started prying and it seemed to have a little more movement. I used my air hammer with a blunt bit and hit the dowel pin on the drivers side and it separated about 1/8”. Moved to other side and same thing, 1/8”. Back to drivers side and was able to get 36” pry bar between bellhousing and back of engine. Had a good bite on it and a few squeezes of the air hammer trigger and it was loose. Passenger side came the rest of the way off with just the pry bar. Both dowel pins stayed in bellhousing. But didn’t have to use sawzall so that’s all that matters.
e069ec0526a8e7032dafc548d04b82f2.jpg

Took a break from under the truck and removed the u-joints from driveshafts. These are factory joints and it takes some heat to melt out the plastic that is put in to retain the joint. These suck to pound out if you don’t first melt the plastic out.
bdd1e3d5412625d1e7222c526f771b15.jpg

c8009a72dd5054fd96a4cd465a74a0e6.jpg

After the plastic oozes out, smack it like it owes you money and they come out. Both shafts done and half ass cleaned up with a wire wheel.

20ff12e51ab47f245022379beb5d374c.jpg

Did you really think I wasn’t gonna paint them? C’mon man!!

Back under.
735057261c2a23e962b2f22bf0d2666a.jpg

Gonna pull flywheel here in a minute and change the rear seal and gasket.

Next is the manifolds. They will both be coming off the engine to extract 2 bolts that are broke off in head (one on each side) and to replace the y-pipe studs. Maybe!! If I don’t feel like removing the studs, it might just be header time. I’m already leaning toward doing away with the cats and post O2 sensors since it’s off. Depends on time.
218a0ebcee0cfed160b780a83992930c.jpg


fce692f08c0c0ac792ceee6d788be45f.jpg

And this cooler line block off plate has been leaking for a while now and I’ve been putting it off. No better time than the present to tackle it. I’ve had the part since 2 weeks after I bought the truck.
dcdd1f4cbed10413476b1ee2c948faf0.jpg

Back to work! I can’t stand here jaw jacking and ass blowing with you guys, I have a lot to do before I’m done for the night. I’ll update 2mrw night what I got done. But of course I have to work so I can’t start until later afternoon.


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Do my eyes deceive me or are those bellhousings slightly different???

Looks like one of the holes got relocated...
rps20191213_212133_710.jpg

I'm not suggesting that it will be an issue... just something I happened to notice.

I wonder if it was something to do with different years or ???
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
Snowbound

Snowbound

Jim
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Chicagoland (Lockport)
Do my eyes deceive me or are those bellhousings slightly different???

Looks like one of the holes got relocated...
View attachment 236546

I'm not suggesting that it will be an issue... just something I happened to notice.

I wonder if it was something to do with different years or ???

Good eye! Yes they are different and probably does have something to do with the years, not really sure. But, there’s always a but, the engine doesn’t even have that extra hole.
08fed4ea2460a19efa58481f206e473d.jpg
160efbf7509f0c7bcfe0f3eae6ac9ce7.jpg

448e3e6963375d4bcde31eba5b2a783c.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

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