I got me a Tahoe!

[j91z28d1]

but yes, everything can be done without pulling the timing cover except the cam itself

 

[Nutro]

Interesting. I did not know that. Got a link handy that explains blocking the ports and cutting gaskets?

 

[Nutro]

I found some videos on it. I also see that Dorman sells an "Updated and better" VLOM. I wonder if I just pull the old VLOM out, put a new in, put a new oil pressure sensor screen and new sensor and try it, if will allow everything to work then run the AFM disabler or have it tuned off.

 

[donjetman]

Interesting. I did not know that. Got a link handy that explains blocking the ports and cutting gaskets?

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/07-valley-cover.140086/page-10#post-1802011

 

[j91z28d1]

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I used this guy's stuff to disable my afm when I got it at 135k. it seemed to still be working fine, but I already had hptuners handy. so seemed like a good idea.

it's definitely a bandaid fix.

replacing the vlom would be interesting to know if it worked. but might be a waste of money too if it didn't work. so it's hard to say.

 

[Nutro]

So I pulled the intake and VLOM today installed a new "Improved" Dorman VLOM, put it all back together and just started it. Same. Dang. Crap. So! now I know the lifter rotated or is just shot. Here is my issue:

Where the Tahoe is sitting is on a pretty steep driveway. I can move it to the street but I'm paranoid about working on it in the street.
I can pull the pass side head and replace all 4 AFM lifters on that side with new ones, or just replace the 2 on Cyl 4 and hope for the best on the rest of them with the new VLOM installed.

I'm not really wanting to do a full AFM delete because If I do, I'd want to put a new oil pump in and that means pulling the oil pan. I just can't do it on this steep driveway.

I can't pay a shop to do it so I could also just sell the Tahoe and focus on the white 2014 I just got.

 

[mikez71]

If you replace lifters, install new lifter guide(s) too..
There is a possibility that the cam is beat up.

Take it apart before buying parts...

 

[j91z28d1]

that sucks.

you can see some of the cam lobes with the vlom off, but don't know if you can see enough to know if any one is damaged.

do you really need a new oil pump for a cam swap? I haven't don't a afm delete but I seem to remember ls guys doing cam swaps without pulling the pan and pump?

 

[Nutro]

I honestly don't know. I almost feel like if I just yank the motor, I can do all of it on the engine stand but I don't know if I have the energy to do it. I can probably just replace the AFM lifters on that side and run it and just make sure I delete AFM and keep changing the oil early and it might be ok? Then again, the temptation to just install a cammed 6.2 with longtubes and exhaust is also pretty high up there haha

 

[j91z28d1]

I'd honestly be in the same situation. yanking the engine would be the way to go cause man the rabbit hole of while you're there is deep. I mean how many miles do you have on it? the oil pans seem to start seeping around the back at 150k or so. and that rear main seal if it's a 4wd it makes the dropping the tranny to get to that a hassle. but also I'd want to sloppy mechanic style it and yank one head, drop in lifters, maybe a head gasket and zip everything back together.

depends on how long you're plan to keep it a guess and if you have a place to work on it. on a steep angle driveway this time of year isn't someplace I have the motivation to pull an engine. but then again I'm feeling old and anything without a lift takes me a while to work up to haha.