I hope I bought the right parts

[Eltoxico]

You'll definitely still squat with the spacers; spacers will have no effect on spring rate. You'll just start squatting 2" higher than you would have without.

Sounds like you're on the right track. Good luck!

Thanks for the clarification. The new springs are actually 2" taller than the ones that came off my Yukon. I guess they might ve the original springs that are hella worn out?

I got the spacers from energy suspension, IIRC, I figured out the parts I wanted on their site and then ordered from that jungle website.. a little cheaper. YMMV.

https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/universal-bump-stops.asp

Lol. Jungle website. Thanks for the info.

 

[Eltoxico]

Just like a child with a new toy, I couldn't wait till tomorrow to start wrenching. So I started hitting it from the back. I removed the rear shocks and springs. Not sure if these are the originals but they sure look like it. The original spring is 2" smaller than the new Moog Z71 81068 springs. Bilstein rear is 1.25" taller than stock. I can't wait to see what the ride quality difference is like once this is complete.

I unbolted the swaybar links and the brake lines from the differential. I couldn't drop the differential low enough to fit the spacers with the springs due to a line that is connected to the forward top right side of the differential to the fueling panel. Any idea what this is? Looks like I'm going to have to rent a spring compressor from the parts store if I want to add the spacers. Going to sleep on it.

Tomorrow I'll finish the rear and do the front, hopefully. Also, should I treat the rust where the springs mount on the top? What do you guys use? It looks pretty bad.

 

[Sam Harris]

Thanks for the clarification. The new springs are actually 2" taller than the ones that came off my Yukon. I guess they might ve the original springs that are hella worn out? View attachment 397622


Lol. Jungle website. Thanks for the info.

Yup, those Z71 springs are longer, and stiffer than your factory springs on your Yukon. SLT / SLE? Do you have the Nivomats? Sorry, too many threads, and I forgot.. (Nivomats are RPO: ZW7) “Premium Smooth Ride” if you do have them, how many miles on them? Those shocks make up the difference for the smaller, softer springs. They’re honestly pretty amazing in my opinion, for the tech of the day.

ETA: Re-read your first post in the thread. So yes, the factory springs are ZW7, and were not necessarily worn out. They’re made smaller, with less capacity than the standard springs, due to having the self-leveling Nivomats. There is also a 3rd spring option, for the non-nivomats, which would be in-between the capacity and size of the ZW7, and the Z71 springs. So you’ve got another inch or so of height, since you went with the Z71 springs. After purchasing my SLT, with ZW7, I had initially decided to replace mine with standard shocks, and Z71 springs, but ended up changing my mind, and stuck with the Nivomats. I’m very happy with them, just wish they weren’t so expensive to replace.

ETA2: The hose you referred to is the diff vent tube. You shouldn’t have any problem disconnecting it for work on the suspension, just make sure you reattach when you’re done.

ETA3: I’d clean up the rust with a wire wheel if you can get one in there. Guessing you don’t have much room though. Maybe a dremel, to clean it up? If you can manage to get the corrosion off, I’d then clean it with something like denatured alcohol, and once dry, put a good coat of POR15 on it, or even just some black chassis type spray paint.

 

[Eltoxico]

Yup, those Z71 springs are longer, and stiffer than your factory springs on your Yukon. SLT / SLE? Do you have the Nivomats? Sorry, too many threads, and I forgot.. (Nivomats are RPO: ZW7) “Premium Smooth Ride” if you do have them, how many miles on them? Those shocks make up the difference for the smaller, softer springs. They’re honestly pretty amazing in my opinion, for the tech of the day.

ETA: Re-read your first post in the thread. So yes, the factory springs are ZW7, and were not necessarily worn out. They’re made smaller, with less capacity than the standard springs, due to having the self-leveling Nivomats. There is also a 3rd spring option, for the non-nivomats, which would be in-between the capacity and size of the ZW7, and the Z71 springs. So you’ve got another inch or so of height, since you went with the Z71 springs. After purchasing my SLT, with ZW7, I had initially decided to replace mine with standard shocks, and Z71 springs, but ended up changing my mind, and stuck with the Nivomats. I’m very happy with them, just wish they weren’t so expensive to replace.

ETA2: The hose you referred to is the diff vent tube. You shouldn’t have any problem disconnecting it for work on the suspension, just make sure you reattach when you’re done.

ETA3: I’d clean up the rust with a wire wheel if you can get one in there. Guessing you don’t have much room though. Maybe a dremel, to clean it up? If you can manage to get the corrosion off, I’d then clean it with something like denatured alcohol, and once dry, put a good coat of POR15 on it, or even just some black chassis type spray paint.

I did think about replacing with new Nivomats but I decided to do Z71 Springs and Bilstein 5100's all around. I had read before that the Z71 springs were only 1" taller than the Premium Smooth Ride ZW7 springs. That's why I was confused and thought my springs were worn but thanks for the clarification. I ended up buying spring compressors to fit the springs in with the spacers.



Everything else in the rear went pretty smooth after. I ended up cleaning the rust using the same method I use at work to remove corrosion on Aircraft airframe components. I used alcoho to clean with a wire brush, and CPC to treat it. Basically same method you said. Just with free stuff I tactically acquired from work.

 

[Eltoxico]

Finished the front side today. Torsion keys were on there pretty good. I ended up spraying PB Blaster twice a day for 2 days and banging them with a 4lb hammer till they finally came lose. I bought a BernzomaticTS8000KC Premium Torch Kit as a plan B but didn't end up using it. Plac C was to rent a Rotary Hammer Drill and banging at the torsion bar where the key is at. Glad I didn't have to do all that. I love you PB Blaster (even though you smell like death.)



Using the Supreme Suspensions Tosrion Key tool semed a little harder to use than the C Clamp torsion key tools I've seen people on YouTube using. It just wouldn't sit in place properly on the top side of the crossmeber while tightening/moving the torsion keys up. Made it work after struggling for a bit. Front shocks were the easiest to put on. The wheel well cover got in the way while removing the nut on the top side of the nut. It would of been easier if I had used a ratcheting wrench. Next on my shopping list. Old struts and bushing were very worn out. Notnsure if they're the original that came from the factory.


All done with suspension for now. New tires, or maybe even bigger wheels and tires tomorrow, then alignment. Next on my list, maybe a few weeks after the trip, is replacing all bushings, ball joints, pitman arms, etc.

 

[E-Force]

Thanks. I'll look in to these.

Thanks, I believe the front Bilstein shocks I purchased are for 2 to 4" lifts to accomodate the torsion keys I ordered. The rear I believe are rated for 0 to 2" lifts. With the 2" spacers I got and the possible 1" additional lift the Moog z71 springs might give it, I might have to either get the shock extenders or remove the spacers. I'll try it with the spacers first and remove them before the trip if they feel funky. I'll check the pitman and idler arms during installation and replace them if needed. I did order new jounce stops but where did you get your poly spacers from incase I need them?


I was hoping not to squat with the 2" spacers I'm installing. We'll see how she holds up with the car fully loaded for the road trip and while towing, if I do tow soon. As far as the AT3's, after further looking in to them, I guess I'll go for what's cheaper and available vs the BFG KO2's. Both these tires seem to be the top choice from what I've read.


I finally received all parts. I will be installing them tomorrow.

It is my understanding that torsion bars are only needed for lowering the front end, not lifting the front end. Is this correct?