I need help...My last resort with this truck.

[iamdub]

'04 is incompatible- different reluctor wheel on the crank being the biggest difference and that would require disassembling the bottom end to swap out. May as well rebuild the engine then.

Is the Tahoe currently in that good of shape that all it needs (as best as you can tell at this time) is an engine? Say you did dump all this money into it and drove it to 200K miles... what then? Is it just for the gratification of seeing the odometer on this particular vehicle read 200K, no matter the cost? If it gets a "new" engine and makes it to 200K, will that be all it is- a Tahoe-shaped pile of crap with a fresher engine and 200000 on the odometer?

If it's a sentimental thing, I can understand that. From how you described it so far, it sounds like you've already poured more into it than it's worth and are wanting to pour more into it.

If you're dead-set on an engine, check out car-part.com

 

[Repaired_Tahoe]

'04 is incompatible- different reluctor wheel on the crank being the biggest difference and that would require disassembling the bottom end to swap out. May as well rebuild the engine then.

Is the Tahoe currently in that good of shape that all it needs (as best as you can tell at this time) is an engine? Say you did dump all this money into it and drove it to 200K miles... what then? Is it just for the gratification of seeing the odometer on this particular vehicle read 200K, no matter the cost? If it gets a "new" engine and makes it to 200K, will that be all it is- a Tahoe-shaped pile of crap with a fresher engine and 200000 on the odometer?

If it's a sentimental thing, I can understand that. From how you described it so far, it sounds like you've already poured more into it than it's worth and are wanting to pour more into it.

If you're dead-set on an engine, check out car-part.com

Thanks for the info on the 04’ Engine.
It is pretty sentimental to me because this is the first car I had ever purchased Brand New and it maybe a money pit....But I’m determined to get it to 200k miles and I’ll keep driving until it can’t go anymore..I also want to keep the miles down on my 17’ CLS550 4Matic And my fiancé doesn’t want me driving her 16’ S4 around (since I’m Too “Heavy” on the throttle.)

 

[swathdiver]

At the very least Tyler you can overhaul your existing engine and delete or update the AFM components. The latest AFM parts are more reliable than what was originally in your truck. If you have a garage and are in no rush you could pull the motor and see what it needs to cross the finish line.

 

[Big Mama]

25 hp isn’t much and since you’re having your computer flashed you might see if they can add a safe tune that will get at least that much. Otherwise the tried and true CAI and exhaust will get at least 10. If you have a tune done while you build it see if the tranny is affected by the tune. I’m all for it and rooting you on. It’s too easy to throw things away these days.

 

[iamdub]

Thanks for the info on the 04’ Engine.
It is pretty sentimental to me because this is the first car I had ever purchased Brand New and it maybe a money pit....But I’m determined to get it to 200k miles and I’ll keep driving until it can’t go anymore..I also want to keep the miles down on my 17’ CLS550 4Matic And my fiancé doesn’t want me driving her 16’ S4 around (since I’m Too “Heavy” on the throttle.)

Understood. A lower-mileage pull-out from a salvage yard wouldn't be very expensive as that 5.3 is the standard mill in everything (Tahoe, Silverado, Yukon, Sierra, Suburban...). You can get one from an '07-'09 and it would be plug-and-play as-is, but you're taking a risk on the AFM system. If it were me, I'd get the freshest direct-replacement within my engine budget and have the AFM deleted before swapping it in. Grab a $350 set of long tube headers/Y-pipe to bolt on while you're at it. Have the PCM tuned to disable the AFM and turn off the rear O2 sensors before you park it for the swap so it'd be ready to go when you drop in the new AFM-deleted engine and you'd be ready to fire it up and roll as soon as you complete the swap. I figure a low-mileage 5.3 can be had for around $1,000 and a basic tune to tirn off AFM and rear O2 sensors usually starts around $100-$150. Sometimes you can get a good deal on a complete pull-out that includes the accessories and transmission. Then your whole powertrain would be fresh and sure to go well over 200K miles. Just know that most trucks and SUVs '09 and newer had the 6-speed auto, which will require more work to retrofit into your '07.

 

[Repaired_Tahoe]

At the very least Tyler you can overhaul your existing engine and delete or update the AFM components. The latest AFM parts are more reliable than what was originally in your truck. If you have a garage and are in no rush you could pull the motor and see what it needs to cross the finish line.

I’m not planning on doing “all” the work myself. Planning on taking it too my fathers mechanic who does the maintenance for my entire family. Only car he hasn’t worked on is my CLS and my fiancé’s S4.

 

[Big Mama]

You’re fortunate to have a trusted wrench. Do yourself a big favor and tell him you want to help. You’ll pick up tons of info for the future. When I got my old boat it needed a new impeller so I placed an add for someone to show me how to do it. I’d never owned a boat and it has saved me tons of cash. Anyone that says a 350 is a 350 boat or car is not the person to ask for help. Have fun with it.

 

[08HoeCD]

Sounds like you've pretty much made your mind up that you want to dive into this. But since you asked for responses, here's mine:

You essentially gave the vehicle away years ago and now it's back. You know it's in bad shape but there's no telling exactly how bad until someone digs into it, and it may be in even worse shape than you think. Why take on this nightmare now, on a vehicle that you kissed goodbye years ago? After all the repairs, you're NOT going to make any money off of it or even break even----it's nothing but downside, unless you just want to treat this as a hobby.

Good luck with your decision.

 

[Nashoba]

I have been where you are right now and I have always made the wrong decision. I always tried to repair a totally broken vehicle and ended up losing my shirt every time. Don't let pride and a challenge over rule common sense. Putting 200,000 miles on a vehicle is a worthy goal, but only if you can do it without too much sacrifice of time and money. You have heard of a house becoming a "money pit"? A vehicle can be the same thing. What you have is the equivalent also of the Biblical idea of not putting new wine in an old sack. The sack normally fails. I think you should sell it and save your hard-earned bucks. Just my opinion learned the very hard way.

 

[sfc_jones]

A 5.3, 6.0,6.2 are all LS Motors. They will bolt right up. Find a pullout from another truck,SUV, or a car that has a LS motor and use it. Keep your heads and intake for a easier build. I am going to get a 6.2 from a Camaro standard shift so I don't have to worry about the AFM and modify my wiring harness. I also may try and put the 6l80e tranny with it as well. Just got to find out what I need to get like the driveshaft and tranny cross member from a donor SUV. I want my Tahoe to run 450hp at the wheels on just motor. Eventually a whipple or procharger will be installed for another 220 or so hp. That would put me over the 600 hp at the wheels...all on pump gas.
On edit: If you do a pullout you will have to get it tuned. Using a LQ9 pullout you should be able to use the existing ECM without any problems.