I need some insight on a motor swap

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triker97

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vin z is flex, look at the inside of the gas tank cap flip cover, there is a white sticker stating it is flexfluel as well as the rpo code list in the glovebox as dub already mentioned
These are what I found, honestly I've only been putting 87 in the tank
 

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Tonyrodz

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Let me give you some advice--I learned this the hard way--as mentioned--if you upgrade the motor, it's a domino effect. You'll need to beef up or upgrade your transmission, then eventually the rearend. My 1st motor upgrade was going from a 4.8 to a cammed LQ4 6.0. I had maybe 230-240k miles on the stock drivetrain. I assumed the trans was either rebuilt or replaced before I got it. It ran great. Felt a little froggy one day next to an Acura. We raced--I beat him. I slowed down, and then as I accelerated it was like it was in neutral. Had the trans redone--forgot to mention I also have a Circle D 3k stall converter. So it was beefed up internally, corvette servo, better and more clutches, and whatever else the guy did. I also like to burn rubber. Makes no sense, but it's jyst fun. Few years I blew the rear. I just bought a junkyard rear, I didn't have it rebuilt. It was cheaper doing a swap. So, as I said, it's a domino effect. You're gonna play, so you'll eventually pay. Just be prepared.
 

mountie

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Leave it alone... and only use a BUILT transmission. A properly built transmission and torque converter are designed on weight, tire diameter, current horse power, rear end spline, etc..
IT WILL WAKE UP.....
Your desire for engine performance seems like a marine spec.
( Marine engines: Imagine you buy a truck, and leaving the sales lot, you ONLY DRIVE up hill - ONLY. Lots of torque plus RPM. ( no guarantees on fuel use ) But you will kill the U-joints & rear end. ( Don't forget to cap your coffee mug )

Save your budget..... When you want to haul ass...... rent a car.... return it over night. :driver:
 
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triker97

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ya that just says not use to use additives with e85 (ethanol) because additives are made for gasoline
Ya but I don't see anything saying it's flexfuel. I might be over looking, or just don't know what to look for, I see the L59 on the glovebox sticker though
 
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triker97

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LOL, it say's right on the sticker e85 or gas, that's what flex fuel is, you can use both or one or the other
And my dumbass moment has arrived, hahaha, but like I said that's why I'm here, so I can get knowledge and not **** this truck up.
So would my best bet be a engine rebuild or remanufactured L59? until I can do the same to the tranny and rear end
 
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triker97

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Let me give you some advice--I learned this the hard way--as mentioned--if you upgrade the motor, it's a domino effect. You'll need to beef up or upgrade your transmission, then eventually the rearend. My 1st motor upgrade was going from a 4.8 to a cammed LQ4 6.0. I had maybe 230-240k miles on the stock drivetrain. I assumed the trans was either rebuilt or replaced before I got it. It ran great. Felt a little froggy one day next to an Acura. We raced--I beat him. I slowed down, and then as I accelerated it was like it was in neutral. Had the trans redone--forgot to mention I also have a Circle D 3k stall converter. So it was beefed up internally, corvette servo, better and more clutches, and whatever else the guy did. I also like to burn rubber. Makes no sense, but it's jyst fun. Few years I blew the rear. I just bought a junkyard rear, I didn't have it rebuilt. It was cheaper doing a swap. So, as I said, it's a domino effect. You're gonna play, so you'll eventually pay. Just be prepared.
I'm ready for it, my wallet is not though
 

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And my dumbass moment has arrived, hahaha, but like I said that's why I'm here, so I can get knowledge and not **** this truck up.
So would my best bet be a engine rebuild or remanufactured L59? until I can do the same to the tranny and rear end
my preference is a built crate motor, be it whatever model. but me and my wallet tend to disagree
 

Marky Dissod

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Great questions, ok so first this is my daily driver, so I don't wanna go too crazy with the power.
What I want to do is be able to accelerate better, burn a little bit of rubber every now and then and have a decent amount of HP for this rig.
I don't do any towing, but you never know I might need to one day.
I'm sorry I don't have all my cards in order for all this, but thats why I posted here, thank y'all.
my dumbass moment has arrived, hahaha, but like I said that's why I'm here, so I can get knowledge and not **** this truck up.
So would my best bet be a engine rebuild or remanufactured L59? until I can do the same to the tranny and rear end.
I'm ready for it, my wallet is not though.
Then don't waste your money. If you must spend, do so wisely, get more bang for your buck.
Your SPID sticker says GU6.
Unfortunately, GU6 is 3.42, which sucks sweaty arse.
You could very easily upgrade that RWD axle from 3.42, to 4.10, AND add a torque sensing limited slip differential, for UNDER $1900.

(That $3800 engine - before installation - could be replicated or even improved upon, for $2850 installed, by a clever shopper with time on his side.)

Back to topic:
4.10 would actually be a good investment, as your metro / urban stop'n'go MpG would actually improve.
4.10 MIGHT cost 2 - 4 highway MpG, depending on how you drive it, but it might be worth the extra SMILES per gallon to you.

My Tahoe has GT4 - that's 3.73 - and I'm sorely dissatisfied; I want 4.10 myself, as soon as I can afford it.
If I had your XL, just before the pcm retune that you should also do, I'd've corrected GM's mistake of 3.42, and upgraded to 4.10.
 

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